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the buzzing is coming from the control module. First thought is that it must be bad, but this is the second one I've received directly from GE and figured that its not likely to get two bad ones in a row.
Is there a way to tell for sure if its defective?
When I check continuity between the violet (pin #6 from left to right with orange wire on left at pin#1) and the red/yellow pin # XXXXX I get continuity reading of 1.216.
When I plug everything in and unplug the large modular plug J2, it is still buzzing contantly. Assuming that this large modular plug/J2 is the one that includes the water valve, right?
back to the resistence between the two purple wires, I get 100Ω.
the left pin #1 is orange.
1 - orange
3 - blue
4 - dark blue
5 - pink
6 - violet
7 - violet
8 - red
9 - red/yellow
10 - black/white
11 - black/white
continuity between orange pin 1 and violet pin 6 is .671.
Resistence between pins 1 and 6 is infinite
Resistence b/t #6 violet and #9 red/yellow is 65,600Ω.
plugged everything in.
removed kick plate and disconnected pink #5 wire (flood switch which feeds water valve, right?)
Still constantly buzzing.
about 3,200Ω from #6 violet to the white wire at the connection to the supply behind the kickplate that feeds to J1.
It still buzzes when I unplug J2.
It buzzes when the only thing plugged in is the J1 supply.
While I was there and with everything plugged in to the control module, I unplugged the fan motor and the detergent pump individually as well...buzzing
Getting 125V at J1.
So 2 bad control modules in a row from GE... is there some kind of sequence I needed to follow when plugging everything in? Could I have fried the control by making the connections improperly or in the wrong order? When I get the new one, do I simply plug everything in and expect everything to work properly, or do I need to run this "factory reset" test by holding the up and down arrows once I turn the power on?
ok, is there a test i can do to confirm that the turbidity sensor is bad?
Received the new control module this morning. With the power off, I installed the module, reconnected everything, put the door back together and turned the power back on.
again, constant buzzing.
Nothing lit up on the keypad.
Tried holding the up and down arrows in for 5+seconds within 2 minutes of turning the power on. keypad unresponsive.
unpllugged J1 power supply
unplugged everything else from the control module.
plugged in J1 - constant buzzing.
What do I do next?
Could the fact that there is infinite resistence between pins 18 and 19 on the keypad be an issue? I read somewhere that the module will buzz constantly with either a bad keypad, or when the keypad isnt plugged in.
Yes, this is a new keypad. According to page 13 in this Technical Service Guide http://thisoldappliance.com/library/ge_dw_techsheet.pdf, there should be about 22kΩ resistance between pins 18 & 19. I get infinite. Could be that I've plugged it in and disconnected it too many times and broken the connector, so I've ordered another new keypad today. Will post an update once it's installed.
Other than that, and unless I've gotten 3 bad control modules in a row from GE, the only other thing that seems to explain the buzzing with just the power plugged into it is the motor or some switch or solenoid in it cause it looks like that's the only thing that receives power directly and not from the control module. Agree?
the new keypad worked. Reason the original keypad was not responding in the begining was because the door latch switch was not fully depressed and closing the circuit when the door was shut. Wrapped the plastic piece that depresses the switch with a piece of electric tape to build it up a bit and that did the trick. So one control module and two keypads later, all it needed was some tape. Go figure.