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Tyler Z.
Tyler Z., Appliance Doc
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 73422
Experience:  9+ years being an appliance technician with factory training.
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Customer Question

GE Profile electric dryer, lost effectiveness...changed both elements, changed cycle thermotstat, redid exhaust to improve flow. Exhaust temp cycles between 150 F and 125 F which apears a little high for the drum outlet temperature but that should make it more effective not less. Model is DPSR473EW0WW Any thoughts? Thx
Submitted: 3 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 3 years ago.
Hello, and thank you for using this service. I'll be helping you with your problem today.

Try completely disconnecting the vent from the back of the dryer and then run a cycle. Does the drying performance improve?
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

I could try that but the air flow to the outside has never been stronger.

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 3 years ago.
Can you please just try? Feeling the airflow by hand doesn't determine volume of air, it only says it has a high volocity. I myself as a technician can't determine if a vent is partially clogged so I wouldn't expect anyone else can either by just feeling.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Okay this will take a while, how do we proceed?

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 3 years ago.
Just come back and post on this same question when you have the results and I should be here to help.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Direct discharge did not show noticeable improvement. Velocity out of machine and velocity at outside port and reasonably close using my duct velocity tool. Temperature remains lower than we experienced in the past, i.e. the clothes were noticeably hot, now they are just warm.

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 3 years ago.
OK, then the next thing to do is remove the drum and watch to see if both inner and outer elements are heating up and glowing when you select high heat.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

I did this by holding the door switch and turn it on. Both circles of red light up. remember I changed both elements as a precaution even though the resistance readings were okay at about 30 ohms.

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 3 years ago.
Aye, I understand you changed the element, but that didn't mean that the timer was sending power to both elements. So since both are lighting up, that means that the only things left are either your vent, or your thermostats. You said that disconnecting the vent had no effect which means that only thermostats can cause the problem. You replaced the cycling thermostat, but now you need to see which thermostat is actually cycling causing the dryer to shut the heat off. This can be difficult to test because you have to test WHILE the dryer is completely assemblied. What you are testing for is voltage. Test between the 2 wires that go to each thermostat, start with the cycling thermostat. You should read 0 volts between the 2 wires, and then when the heat clicks off, you should read 240 volts at the cycling thermostat between the 2 wires. Can you run the dryer and see if that is what happens?
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Wow, not sure how you accomplish this as the drum sits in front of the heat element assembly. You can take the top off, but the front has to stay on so the drum can rotate freely. With the top off you cannot see the element assembly. Do you run jumpers up to the top and read from there?


FYI, the temperature at the discharge does cycle between 125 and 140 degrees F. Does that tell us any thing? BTW if I had to change the safety thermostat at $85 may not be worth it, the thermstat hi limit on the right is about $35 is possibility.

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 3 years ago.
So yes, that is really the problem and why I was saying it was difficult. But yes, you would have to do something like run wires through the seams and clamp alligator clips to the thermostat terminals so that you can get a reading with the front panel on. The top panel can be removed, that is not a problem, but the air needs to circulate properly which is why the front panel must be installed.

If the dryer is working properly, the cycling thermostat should read 240 volts when the heater kicks off between the 2 wires. If you still read 0 volts between the 2 wires, then you have to start checking the other high limit thermostats and such because whichever one is giving 240 volts when the heater turns off is the one that needs to be replaced.

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