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Hello, Try to look at the evaporator coil in the freezer, sometimes they would install a fuse in series with the defrost heater. It is sealed in a plastic container and would have a glass fuse inside. I have seen this a lot in korean made units.
is this located in compartment at rear of freezer at bottom right hand corner next to a 6 inch diameter fan ?
I found the diagram and there is a fuse in series with the defrost heater. Please click the blue word. The location, I can not be sure but if you can trace the wires of the defrost heater, the fuse is series with it.
On the page that I sent you, it is on circuit one, if you want to look at the diagrams, click the drop down menu, click circuit 1 and you can see from there, it has a thermal fuse. It would blow on over temperature but could blow on over current as well.
removed bottom back panel and 2 back panels in freezer compartment. cant see fuse with red and blue/white wires, cant see that config on master circuit board on top neither !!
It is not on the mother board. Have you seen the sockets on the inner wall? Look for the wires there attached to the sockets. Also, try to trace the heating element and you could find out what could be in series with the wires connected to it. It is sometimes embedded on the evaporator coil because it is used as a thermal fuse as well. If the evaporator coil is fully frosted, I suggest you clear the ice first so you can find the fuse.
the blue/white wire from conn3 goes to the fuse, but it goes down a hole on top of freezer, ive had the freezer compartment stripped and no sign of wire. any more ideas
The blue/white goes to conn3 to a fuse on the board?
If you check the continuity of points 1 and 3 of conn3, you should be able to read a resistance of about 400 ohms. If you did not read that or any thing, then the fuse is busted and that would be the thermal fuse. Aside from the only fuse on the board, the 250 vac 15 amp, there should be no other fuse according to the schematics.
on con3, bl/wh comes out of coccection 3 (nuetral) thru fuse and out as a red wire(live) same prob, where is fuse. what happens to freezer if i cant fix prob, is there a timescale ?
The heating element would not activate to defrost the evaporator and the electronic board can detect that that is why it is triggering the error code.
the unit would only work for a couple of hours because it would be triggering the defrost after 4 hours of cooling and if it did not detect the heater heating up, it would trigger the error code,
the mother board has 2 fuses, 1 removable and 1 soldered to board. both are fine. i did not get 400 ohm res so fuse must be blown.
Is the evaporator coil still covered with ice?
is that the large coil behind the inner freezer compartments, ( im not a freezer engineer but an ex-electrician)
IF YES, IT WAS LIGHTLY COVERED IN ICE
yes, it is made of aluminum tubes with fins
ok. Can you thaw everything there, you may use a hair dryer to speed up the process.
is the fuse located by the coil ?
it is. Since it is also a thermal fuse, it is embedded on the evaporator coil. This would stop the heating element circuit in case the heater would not stop heating the evaporator coil. It is a safety fuse on the defrost circuit.
so i have to remove all ice off the large coil in freezer compartment and look for a fuse. will this fuse have the bl/wh wire attached or some other connection ?
It should have the red and the blue/white wires on it. Also, to easily find it, trace the wires of the heating element, it is in series with the fuse. The fuse is sometimes secured on the evaporator coil by tie wires so that it would detect the temperature of the evaporator coil.
have found 1 brown and 1 blue wire,they are encased in silver foil
And, is the silver foil attached on the evaporator coil?
yes, with a tie wrap, ive openened silver paper and looks like a type of fuse. its sealed in clear plastic like you said.
how do i replace it without damaging wires, can i cut off at start of plastic as there is quite a long length on wires ?
Ok. That would be the thermal fuse. If you would jump the wires and again measure the resistance between 3 and 1 on con3, I think you should be reading a resistance now. To replace it, cut the wires where you can place the splice where ice can not reach it, The wires are made longer for that reason. Then solder the connection and use rubber tape first to create water proofing then use plastic tape on top.
problem. i have to go off to work now. i need to put everything back until 2morra. i dont want to cut wires as i dont have enough time to buy new fuse and fit it today. hopefully problem sorted. i should be ok if i follow yr instructions
Ok. Good luck on the repair.
are all freezer thermal fuses same rating ? or is this a special ?
I think they are the same rating or if ever there would be different temperature, I suggest get the next one colder in tripping temperature rather than the next higher for more safety. If the original would trip at 70F, if it is not available and 65 and 75 are available, I would get the 65 so that it would trip earlier rather than the warmer temperature.
Sorry, 72 C is the rating according to the schematics.
thanks for your help, hopefully 2morra i can sort it out.
if not i will either throw freezer in the river or throw myself in. lol thanks again
You are very much welcome. I think you can do it. Good luck again.
thanks again for yr help, i removed thermal resistor and bought replacement, tested the damaged resistor and it was ok, so back to square one, maybe the defrost heater is broken, i have now given up and lg engineer coming out next week. hopefully he will fix problem !
thanks, but where is defrost heater and how do i test resistance ?