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I thought I wasn't suppose to rate the service until we were done, but I'll do as you suggested. Do you have a feel for about how much those boards cost?
OK, I'll rate you now. Also, I actually just looked it up at the repair clinic. Its $77.10. The micro is GE JEB1860 DM1BB. So you don't think it's a door switch. I thought it was curious that both the turntable and the magnetron would both stop working at the same time, that's why I was thinking it was a safety switch. If you think its the board I'll go ahead and order it. Thanks. Mike
Thanks for following up Michael. The board arrives today. I'm hoping to run home and install it this afternoon because we have pre-trick/treat party this evening. Could you give me a quick briefing on how to get the micro open and replace the board, are any sketches available of this. I tried the other day, but i could not find a PDF diagram on-line. Thanks.
What's the quickest way to get to the board? Does the out shell/case have to be removed to access the board?
OK, I'll check at lunch to see if the part came. Thanks.
I put the new board in and it's acting the same way. What do you recommend? The display works. But the magnetron doesn't activate. I do hear clicking, but I did before as well. Is there anything I can do to diagnose the problem. Why were you certain it was the board? I sure hope the repair clinic will take a return on the circuit board? Could it be the Magnetron itself? Or, could/should I jumper the door switch somehow (with door closed), just to make sure that's not the problem? Please let me know. Thanks.
Yes, the light comes on, the timer starts counting down, and I hear a click like a relay on the board, but no hum from the magnetron.
Okay, and the turntable doesn't turn? Do you have a meter to test for voltage? One more thing when you turn it on do you hear like a fan running?
I don't hear a fan, and I also don't hear the electrical hum that I always assumed was the magnetron. I do have a multi meter.
Yes it is
yes, there is resistance. you can feel it moving a mechanism and you can hear what sounds like gears turning.
I've already checked the connections to the new board to make sure they are secure. I know how to connect a multi-meter to measure resistance, voltage, etc, but I've never checked a safety switch for continuity. I'm sure I can do it with your advice.
I understand what you are saying. I wil l have to leave for a while. i promised my kids a bike ride earlier, and it will take some time for me to open take the case off and test the switches. By the way. Is it safe to turn the microwave on for testing with the outside metal case removed--from a radiation perspective? [I know I should not touch electronics, especially capacitors and the door would need to be closed at all times.] Thanks.
Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX available later this afternoon?
I thought that I sent a follow up message a minute ago, but it didn't take me to the normal screen that it does when I'm waiting. Here's the message again:
The bottom switch is bad. The switch is "open" (high resistance) whether the micro door is open or closed. I jumpered the wire connector and the micro works, and I can hear the hum of the the microwave. I was a little surprised to hear the fan come on when i opened the door to put a cup of water in, but i closed it instantly and I'm sure the magnetron didn't have time to start, even if it was about to.
Please let me know if there is anything else I should check before I order the door switch. Thanks. Mike
I think the fan stayed on the entire time, but I'd have to check to be sure. The wiring looked fine and since the switch tested open either way, it sure looks like the switch is bad. I'll go check the fan now and get back it a minute. Mike
When I have the lower switch jumped, the fan will go on if I open the door. It also works like it should when I turn the micro on.
Thanks very much!