Do you have the G.E. part #'s? Are they the same part with 2 used for backup sake? I'd like to have the replacement on hand when I take the assembly apart so I can test & replace at the same time. If they test out O.K. I'd like to be able to return the parts. The test should be easy once it is apart.
Thanks. Is a schematic available that shows how to reach the thermostats through the front of the oven? if the thermostats test good what do you suggest.
Thanks for your help. I'll give it a try & hopefully I'll be able to resolve the problem.
I recently had shoulder surgery & my right arm & hand don't work too well. It takes me a lot longer to get things done. There isn't much room to work on the lower oven. I was just able to test the 2 thermostats for the lower oven. They are both open as is the single thermostat for the upper oven. Are you sure that they are normally closed? They can't all be bad. I also wonder about the door micro switch since the door must be partially open to broil. I'm confused.
Have you found the answer? We will need the oven for company in a few days. I will have to call for service which I had hoped to avoid.
I don't know if you have given up on this problem. In any case, if you can't even say whether these thermostats are normally open or closed I have no answer to my inquiry. At this point you can't even say that they are the cause of the problem since you don't seem to know how these thermostats are supposed to work. It seems that I have no choice but to put everything back together & call for service. I expect a credit for the $30.00 charge on my credit card. If this is not issued I will contest the charge on my bill.
I tested the thermostat for the top oven because it works. I thought that if it was closed that would tell me that the open therm.in the same position on the bottom was bad. Since all 3 (the 1 on the top oven & 2 on bottom) all test open I have no way of knowing how they are supossed to test. The sites you sent from Sears do not say "normally open" or "normally closed" in their descriptions. I'm stuck..
Before I do this I am going to go to a Sears parts store nearby to see if they have these in stock. If they do, I'll test them right there. If 1 or both test closed I'll replace. If they test open I'll know it's not either of these. Hopefully they'll have them. I'll let you know how I do.
I just came back from Sears. Let's use the diagram part #'s. The # XXX gave me for #159 is, according to them, wrong. They say it should be WB24K5049. I was suspicious because the # XXX gave is for a switch that is much like 158 & about the same price. The actual switch is much larger & more complicated & twice the price. In any case, they are out of stock on both 158 & 159. I put both on order. They can't tell me when they will ship. In the meantime I will start to put the oven back together & will try using a jumper for #159. I'll advise when I try it.
I made a jumper for #159 & used the old #158. The oven worked. I'll replace both with the new 1's I have on order. No use leaving an 11 year old part after all the work. I just hope the parts come soon. Thanks for your help.
thats great ! thanks and good job. have a great week ! Bryan
Oven worked fine cooking. We used the self cleaning & it seemed to work normally but the door remains locked. I tried pressing the "Bake" & "Broil" buttons at the same time & the display showed "Door". I tried holding the "9" & "0" buttons down at the same time but it wouldn't unlock. I turned the breaker off for about 10 minutes & turned it back on but the door remains locked. I tried restarting the self clean & immediatly turning it off but it will not unlock. Any suggestions?
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Both are installed correctly & the oven works normally. It just won't unlock after self cleaning. The self cleaning cycle seemed to work normally until I tried to open the door. It had all night to cool down. It remains locked even with the breaker off. In spite of everything I tried as I listed above it won't unlock.
It sounds like it could be a nasty job. How bad is it?
Being a retired senior in this economy is a lot of fun. I just finished fixing a leaking toilet.
I guess the next step in the oven problem is getting the door open. Until I do that I can't get to the door lock assembly. What's my next step?
I'll give it a try. I'll let you know how I do. Thanks for your help.
This is really crazy. The door just unlocked on it's own!! I have no idea why. My wife will think I'm a genius.
Is the switch temp sensitive or is there another thermostat that controls the door latch? I'd like to prevent this from happening again.
I'm going to run the oven through a broil or bake cycle empty to see if the door remains unlocked. I don't want to take the chance that it will lock up with food in it. If it doesn't lock I'll at least know it can be used as long as we don't try self cleaning it. There must be a control that locks the door when the self cleaning cycle is started (oven cold) but doesn't unlock it until the oven cools down at the end of the cycle. I don't mind replacing the latch assembly but I'd like to also replace whatever it is that controls the latch locking & unlocking. That seems to be the real problem.
I went to test the oven & it didn't work. The same thermal switch is blown. Obviously, it is a problem in the "Selfclean" circuits. The original problem turned up after we cleaned the oven. Maybe I'll just replace the therm, #159 on the schematic, & not use the cleaning program again.