Hi, my name is Chas, I am hoping that I will be able to help you with your problem today..
Is the 3.5 volts with the coil hooked up or without it?
with the coil hooked up, is the coil powered off the electronic board?
Sorry I typed the wrong model number in my database, the water dispenser is inside the door correct?
if I get 120 volts without the coil hooked up, does that mean that the board is suspicious? The Ice maker valve is working by the way.
If you get 120 volts, then the water cooler is frozen where it goes into the wall, it is located behind the crisper bins of the unit, normally freezes right where it comes out of the wall, use a hair dryer to thaw it.
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Chas, the job where the refrigerator is, is quite a ways away from where I am presently at my house talking to you on my computer, so I am not sure what I am going to find when I get there. The valve did open up when I rigged 120 volts to the coil apart from the boards power so I know that the coil works, but when I have the coil hooked up to the boards power it does not open or do anything except buzz when you push the dispenser button calling for water. The interesting thing is that the water that flowed thru the valve when I did the power rigging, I do not know where it went, do you think it went inside the wall of the refrigerator where the frozen spot is and needs the thawing and that the board does not generate enough power by itself to overcome the frozen spot but my power rigged situation does give it enough power to blow the water thru the frozen spot in the line and into the wall of the refrigerator?
Are you asking me for a diagram, or do you have one?
Have you looked at the tech sheet for this model?
No, where do I find it, is it on the refrigerator?
Here is a copy, normally it is found under the front kick plate stuck in a bag,
Also here is a complete service manual for this machine.,it is over 70 pages long.
I hope this will help you.