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Hello, I can help you with this. I can give you step by step instructions. Do you need my to look upi the part number as well?
Yes, please, although I've found the part online before...
Sounds like you need the display/comtrol board located up front.
62692 is the original part number let my look up the revision.
Yes, though I wondered if there was a separate control board under the top - guess not...
there is another relay board in the back but it only sends power to the components (fans elements, ect)
That part number is XXXXX good.
I'll type out the instructions, You gain access via the top.
First remove the retaining rings on the top and the burner bases (when you unhook the wire loop around in the hole so it doesn't fall through). Depending on the serial number you may have to remove the burner grate ledges or a set of trim skirts around the pan. This will allow you to remove the top. On early versions there is insulation under this you will need to also remove (easy) but newer modes do not......cont....
... there is a metal cover that you need to remove behind the control board to gain access to the back of the board. unhook the wires and unhook the keypad (flat wide ribbon cable) then use a 1/4 drive to remove the 4 screws holding the display. Reverse and you're done.
OK, did that previously. The burner retaining rings are brass, they're off. The grate ledges have been removed. There is a center burner ledge that has no obvious way to remove it...
there should only be the four burner rings holding it down. what is in the center?
right, only four. I meant there is a center ledge for the grates with no obvious way to remove it. It clearly is bound underneath the pan, I can feel it.
Ok, I see that right now on the drawing. Let me look at the service manual. I've removed a lot of dacor tops and I don't remember that piece. Just give me a quick second..
I see what looks like two screws that hold that part down in the center. Each about 1/3 the way along it. Is there a cover clipped on the top over those two screws?
TOP dacor drawing HERE
OK, I got it just by lifting - just needed some persuasion. Looking at the 1/4 drive screws, will get those off, stand by...
OK, six sheet metal screws and plate off, interesting that the wiring diagram and failure codes are in an envelope down there. OK, next???
Is there a right and piece covering the electronic and valves? Up front. the clock is the item that we are looking to replace.
Right angle piece
I can see the back of the electronics. I see three harness connectors, one ribbon connector at the L of the board, and what looks four nuts holding the board(s) on standoffs.
I took the front top stainless trim off for more complete access. Can see everything now.
the four 1/4 nuts are what you'll need to remove the board in its plastic case. You should remove the cables first to make it easier to pull off.
you may need a right angle ratchet to get to the lower nuts. that's what i use.
do I need to be careful with the ribbon connectors on the left - they look pretty frail...
As long as you grasp them at the base you are ok. you can use a small flatheat to pry it a little loose first.
ok, give me a minute...
No problem, I'll be here.
OK, the nuts are off and the board/display is free, except for the largest pin connector at the bottom - attached to the biggest orange low voltage harness. What form of persuasion there??
Never mind, flat-headded that too and no problems. It's out.
Now, I'll need to order parts. Anything special about putting it back together, any resets or anything that I need to do after it's back in??
There are no special trick to putting it back in, The calibration and model are all preset. It's really pretty easy once you get everything all loosened up.
OK then. I can put it back together now without the board since I won't be powering it up, right?
Sears.com appliancepartspros.com are both really good reliable vendors. You should also be able to find it locally if you go to dacors website and find the nearest warranty auth company for dacor. They are sure to have boards like these in stock.
Correct as long as you leave the power off you should still be able to use the top till you get the new board in.
Oh yeah - if I can find a used, tested board (like on ebay), do you think I should chance that? It goes about $285 new online, $125 I've seen on ebay.
As long as you have a way to return it you shouldn't have a problem. Make sure that its a reputable dealer.
OK thanks. This was great. Saved me at least $150 in initial call and labor.
Glad to help! this question will stay open even after you rate so feel free to ask any follow up you may have when you get the part. Doesn't cost you anything.
Hope not to need to check back. Thanks again. Excellent rating coming up.