Model zdp48n6dhss, serial # XXXXX
service manual link: http://appliantology.org/files/go/b01a295750b82256ddbebcaaa78693cb/ge-monogram-duel-fuel-pro-zdp-zgu-31-9119/
Yes, it's locked and I can't open the door.
I have removed the 3 screws that hold in the trim piece located below the drip tray drawer. I can see the lock mechanism pictured on page 19, but don't have enough access to take voltage measurements from all of the contact points. (I have a multimeter.)
I'm comfortable doing this myself . . .just need a few pointers and some step-by-step instructions. Thanks!
I recognize the first image from page 19. I have access to the area where screws 352, 353, 358, and 360 are located.
I do not recognize the 2nd image. What's the black rod sticking out on the bottom?
Yes, it is a dual oven split 1/3 and 2/3rds.
EDIT -- I used a thin 1/4" x 1" piece of oak trim moulding to push the lock mechanism from the side. Pushing from the right, I was actually able to open the oven. However, the lock mechanism is still engaged. How do I get it to retract? Is it the K4 relay that needs power? Now that I can remove the lock assembly housing to get to the wires, should I test the K3 relay for power?
It was my 2 year old daughter that decided to push the clean button. Since fixing the oven is easier than fixing my daughter, what do I need to do to fix the oven so that it doesn't get locked during a future clean cycle?
p.s. I do not have the black rod piece as part of my lock mechanism. I'll post a picture in a few minutes.
Yes, I'm OK waiting . . .no rush, just want to fix it without costing a fortune or breaking it further. Please do continue to search for another expert.
Hello, thanks for letting us answer your questions. We appreciate your business!I am a different technician. I see that the other tech had opted out of your question, so I will attempt to help you out. Looking at your picture, you oven appears to be different that the parts illustrations. I would like you to carefully look all around the edge of the oven opening frame for a peg or rod sticking out of the frame. Possibly down by the door hinge if you don't see anything obvious.There has to be a switch that tells the oven that the door is closed.
Does the oven light turn on when the door is opened or only by the switch on the console?
No peg or rod...the light turns on and off with a switch and never automatically (by itself) when the door opens.
Opened oven, pushed clean and set t-stat past broil to clean. Nothing happened. Then I pushed the lock/latch to the left.
The fan started and the broil element started heating. When I released the latch, the fan stopped and the broil element began to cool. Then the latch began to swing from left to right and back.
I turned the oven to off and the t-stat to zero. The latch continued to automatically swing from left to right and back.
I closed the oven door. The latch stopped swinging and locked the door closed.
Then I started another clean cycle and was able to get the door open again with my wooden stick. With the door open, the latch began swinging back and forth. I turned the oven and t-stat off and, with the latch still swinging back and forth, turned the breaker off in the basement. The latch is now in the mostly closed position, preventing the oven door from closing fully.
Yes, I can pull the lock assembly out by using a T10 torx driver.
When I installed it about 6-9 months ago, it was very difficult to get all of the wires attached to the leads -- just not enough space to work in for my hands and the short length of the wires. (It's possible that the repair procedure calls for opening the oven from the top -- I'm not sure -- but that would require substantial time and effort.)
I tried holding the latch open (and closed). It starts making a grinding noise that isn't heard when it latches against the metal of the oven door. Is it possible that it's sensing continuity when it closes against the metal of the oven door (vs. my hand)?
I should be able to test for continuity on the wires/relays when the oven is going through it's motions. I just don't know what to look for!
No, the latch just moves against the microswitch inside the lock. It looks at though the lock comes as one part. But the switches are on on the right top, looks like there are two of them.Part number is XXXXXI have put in a request for a service manual for this, but sometimes it take a day or two if I can get one. GE is pretty secretive about their manuals. If you want me to continue with you , I will come back to this question if I get additional information, even if you rate my help tonight. But at this time, I think you have a problem with the lock mech. Did you daughter have the door open when she put into self clean? Also, if you replaced this, maybe you have a loose wire in there.
There is a link to the service manual at the top of this thread. I agree that the problem is with the lock mechanism. It's either not wired right or there is a bad solenoid or microswitch or something.
The mechanism was new 6-9 months ago when I put it in. I double checked my work and thought I wired it correctly, but it could be wrong?! It shouldn't be a bad part -- it's practically brand new and wasn't ever used prior to this event.
The door was closed when she put it into clean mode. She just walked by and started pushing buttons...
I was able to download it. Try this link again.
I will try opening the lock mechanism up in the morning. Thanks!
I opened up the lock mechanism assembly. Here is a picture.
The switches both looked like there were in proper physical position and condition. I suppose I would need to test them for continuity in order to know for sure what the situation is.
EDIT: OK, I hacked a semi-permament fix.
With the door open and the latch swinging open to closed, I timed the latch as it swung back and forth and noticed that it ran on a 30 second interval, fully open at zero and fully closed at 30 seconds.
I turned the breaker off when it was on its second cycle of fully open (at 60 seconds). I then came upstairs and verified the latch was fully open (it was). Then, I turned the breaker back on.
I went upstairs and turned on the oven t-stat and set the oven to bake, and then convection and broil modes. The "door locked" light stayed off and the latch was not swinging back and forth. SUCCESS!
This doesn't fix the problem that the oven doesn't unlock after being put into clean cycle, but it does give me access to use the oven again. If you're willing to help me troubleshoot a permanent fix, I'm up for it. It would seem to be a matter of testing for voltage at the right time and in the right places . . .
Test the switch function by using your ohm meter and read from terminal #1 to 2 & #1 to 3 one is normally open , the other closed ,Your meter should move when you move the lever or press the little tab. But like I said before, it looks as if you have a problem with the lock mech.It also looks like the switches on riveted into the mounting plate,which would make them too hard to replace. I think I am at the end of the line here on helping you much further. It looks as if we have figured out where the problem is. Sure would like to know how just pressing some buttons by your daughter would cause such a problem. Maybe we should set her up a beta tester for new appliances If you feel I have helped you out please don't forget to rate my help to you. JA is keeping a scorecard on our answers and help.Thanks
PS Nice pics