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Justin
Justin, Appliance Technician
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Experience:  Owner of Shaffer's Appliance Service
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I just replaced an old switch on my stove (kitchenAid superba model #kesc307hbs4) with the

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I just replaced an old switch on my stove (kitchenAid superba model #kesc307hbs4) with the front burner that has the dual capability. With the new switch, which is different from the old one which I guess they don't make anymore(NNN) NNN-NNNNI got the replacement Wpl(NNN) NNN-NNNN ref(NNN) NNN-NNNN Of course the new switch had different wiring which I think I hooked up correctly (several of the wires has illegible numbers). Now the burner works, but the light does not go on
e (it used togo on all the time when it didn't work) and the dual capability doesn't work ams a "pf" code appears. What should I do? Is it dangerous?
Submitted: 4 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Justin replied 4 years ago.
If PF appears on the clock, it sounds like it may be wired wrong. The new part looks like it comes with a jumper wire. Did it include an installation sheet with it? Usually L1 is Black, L2 is Red, The two identical wire colors are H1 and H2 and usually P is the wire to the indicator lamp. Do you have it that way. I'm not sure which burner switch you replaced? Front right, left, rear right left? Is this a dual element. I know you said this, but I want to make sure we're clarified here. Is it the front right dual element?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
It is the front left burner. Now when I turned on the stove then turned it off the pf code disappeared but the dual capability does not work and when I turn the burner on the light does not go on as it does with all the other switches. I received direction with the new switch which were not very good. It told me to label the old wires before I disconnected them from the old switch but of course I disconnected the wires from the old switch first and took the old switch out so I could get the part number to orde r the new part. I think I hooked the colors you mentioned correctly including the jumper wire. The directions say the jumper wire goes in to p1 and s1. Then it says 2 or L1 connects also to P1 ( there are two P1s. 3or H1connects to 4. 4 or H2 connects to 4a. 5 or P connects to S2. N or L2b (brown wire) connects to 2. And N or L2b (red wire) connects to P2. Problem is because I disconnected the wires before receiving the new switch and because the wires are very hard to read, it's a challenge to connect but there was enough info on the wires to make me think I got it right.
Expert:  Justin replied 4 years ago.

Ok, I have pulled the schematic up so I can see the original wiring locations. I shall need to ask you to scan the direction sheet (front and back as necessary) and upload it here using the paper clip icon. I need to compare what you have now to what was originally there. Any time they make a wiring change, it becomes more of a challenge. You were correct though, the original part was discontinued. Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX awaiting your response.

 

Never mind... I have located a instruction sheet for the part. Bear with me as I research both sheets.....

Expert:  replied 4 years ago.

Ok first, I believe you do have this miswired.

You need to ENSURE you haven't mixed up L1 black with S2 black. L1 black is the live wire into the switch. You also must ensure your L2 Red is going to P2, and the other red (which may be a braided fabric wire) is going to terminal 4. Black wire from indicator pilot lamp is S2, Blue is 4A, jumper connects P1 and S1, and the insulated terminal on that wire goes to S1. If all else fails, and you are 100% positive you have a good connection, you may have gotten a bad switch. I'm pretty certain you have something wired wrong though. Since you're getting the PF, it sounds like you might have L1 and S2 reversed. I'd highly recommend you get in there with a meter. L1 and L2 will have 120 volts in reference to ground with the switch in the off position and power applied to the range. Double check, because it really sounds like a miswire. Good luck.

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