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My Amana built-in B136CAR3 will not defrost, top section too

 
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  • Answered by:Appliance Guru
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Customer Question

My Amana built-in B136CAR3 will not defrost, top section too warm. Repair guy came out, charged $145 and said the compressor was fine, and left. No fix. I think I found multiple problems... please note, this is a built-in, and the cusXXXXX XXXXX panels are super heavy maple, I think the cabinet maker took a little liberty with the measurements...

So the freezer iced up so bad I couldn't open the door, and the top section is getting almost no cooling. This is the 5th time I've had to manually defrost it by taking off the back panel. I know I can use some kind of forced override on the control panel to defrost it without disassembly (how?). Anyway, at one point the lights were staying on in upper and lower sections, so I partially unscrewed the lightbulbs so they won't turn on. It appears the freezer seal isn't tight fitting on the left side. Also there is a micro-switch on the left side of the freezer, looks like it's supposed locks out the icemaker from operating when the drawer is open, but it appears to be broken, this might be partially causing the freezer drawer from closing and keeping the seal tight. So... could the main reason for the icing up be due to a bad defrost sensor, or heating element? arg... been fighting this for a couple of years, and the service tech guy has been useless.

 

Optional Information:
Brand: Amana
Type of Appliance: Refrigerator

Already Tried:
Manually removed rear freezer panel, defrosted it. Cleared the drain tube. Cleaned upper radiator near compressor on top of refer. Call 3 service techs, all came up zero after 10 mins... and 5 of that was trying to figure out how to remove the freezer drawer...

Submitted: 278 days and 6 hours ago.
Category: Appliance
Value: $79
Status: CLOSED

Accepted Answer

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Expert:  Appliance Guru replied 278 days and 4 hours ago.

Hello and thank you for using this service.


I see your issue and yes a defrost thermostat would be the most likely cause of your issue. You need to check the back freezer panel. The unit is probably frosted up. This will require you to take the back freezer panel out. There are several screws to get it out. Once ouut if the unit is frosted up more than likely the defrost thermostat is bad if it is all frosted up. The defrost thermostat is clamped to the evaporator on the upper right hand side. The thermostat will look like the top is coming off. If it looks like that it is bad. It will look like this typicallly when it is bad. If it seems expoded like this it is bad and need to be replaced.


CLICK HERE



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Expert TypeOwner and Technician
Category: Appliance
Pos. Feedback: 95.3 %
Accepts: 2346
Answered: 7/10/2012

Experience: Over 15yrs experience with 10,000+ in home repairs.

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Customer replied 278 days and 2 hours ago.

got it all defrosted. Going to check the fan, and the defrost thermo. Do the heater's usually hold up ok? Also, regarding the microswitch (left side wall back behind and below the ice maker... is it for the ice maker lock out? The tech saw it was busted and lock-tied it's lever up, so it acted like the drawer was always open.

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Expert:  Appliance Guru replied 277 days and 16 hours ago.

The heater on that unit typically does not go bad. The switch is just to kill power when the drawer is open for the icemaker, so it does not run when the drawer is open.

Customer replied 276 days and 18 hours ago.

Yup it was bloated like the picture. I got a new one for only $24 locally. I had to clip the brown wire because the connector on the new one was flat-blade style and the old one was round-barrel type -- So I swapped the old wire to the new unit. The markings on both the old and new were the same.

I couldn't get the plug for the ice maker to fit back in the back panel cut out.. so a slight mod was needed (I guess I didn't have the right tool to press it in).


I removed the icemaker switch, it was totally buggered. So there's a new one on order. It was, somehow, keeping the drawer from sliding all the way shut.


Anyway, I'm not sure if it's work better or not. I've defrosted it before and had the refer work for a while. It's been running overnight on max cooling. This morning it's 45 degrees in the upper part. Shouldn't it be colder by now?


The freezer feels frozen, to make sure I just put a thermometer and a little water in a cup.

While I was at it, I clean the evaporators (pre and primary), and the condenser and fans blades up top.


I don't think I got the door limiter in quite right because the refer does know when the door is open now... arg. Check it later. Arg.


Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX was awesome! The picture really helped.


Please let me know if it should be cooler by now or if you think it might be OK. Everything sounds fine.


Thanks!

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Expert:  Appliance Guru replied 276 days and 13 hours ago.

Yes it should be colder, check the return vent and the refrig vent to make sure they are not iced up. It should be flowing good out of the refrig vent when the freezer door is closed.

Customer replied 275 days and 15 hours ago.

Thanks so much for your help! Just Answers won't let me add a bonus at this point, otherwise I would(!).


The vent is not blocked (I let it defrost for a few days and it's hot weather here now). Still wont' go below 45 deg in the refer area. Freezer seems fine. I noticed somethings however, 1) The defrost thermo unit (that went bad), is clipped to the evap, but it's placed over some black tape that's wrapped around the tubing. Is this correct? (note our unit is on the left side opposite of the diagrams). 2) Perhaps more importantly is that appears to be frost appearing on the rear of the refer on the outside on the sheet metal! The top of the frozen area on the is on left side (as you are facing the front door), about mid height. There's a full height panel, about 8 inches wide, covering some electrical wires. The panel is pop-riveted on the inside edge and screwed in along the outside edge, so I can look in there,but cannot actually remove the panel. Is this chilled area on the back normal? 3) It appears that the evap in the freezer is starting to ice up again. But maybe it's too soon to tell. Question... it there anywhere in the refer where a rodent could cause these kinds of cooling issues? We were having some remodeling done in the kitcen, and and one point a mouse had built a nest under the Dishwasher. So who knows, maybe something is blocked? Thoughts?

Customer replied 275 days and 15 hours ago.

Hmm... ya know... maybe the freezer fan isn't working... I'll check.

Also, I drilled out the pop-rivots on that back panel and removed it to see where the ice the appeared on the backside was coming from. There are are insulated pipes there. The ice is forming were the retailing brackets and wires go through to the cold side of the freezer. At the bottom, where most of the wiring goes into the freezer, the hole opened up because the plumber's putty had crumbled away. so this is letting cold air get outside the freezer compartment. One of the holes is right next to the spot where the ice maker water inlet is tubing connector goes into the freezer. It was frozen over too.
Anyway I'll check the freezer fan, maybe it's just not circulating air correctly. The refer fan seems OK.
Update -- the freezer fan is blowing air. Buuuut, the refer fan motor is turning, but there's no air flow that I can tell (unless it always pulls air in). Also, it's making a high pitched screeching sound (my hearing in the high freq range isn't good due to too many rock-n-roll concerts when I was a teen -- So I didn't notice it until my wife said something).

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Expert:  Appliance Guru replied 275 days and 9 hours ago.

It sounds like the vent chute is plugged up with ice. You need to get an inspection mirror with a flashlight and look above the fan up the tube. You will oprobably find it is all blocked up with ice. You just need to melt it out with a steamer or unplug it and let it defrost if that is the case.

Customer replied 275 days and 4 hours ago.

Vents are clear... Nowf the reezer is taking a long to time chill a cup of water, and that's barely to surface freezing. It does, however, appear that the defrost cycle is working now. It looked like it was starting to ice up, and now I see it's not and there's a little water in the tray. But the refer section still doesn't get below 45 degrees.


There are pipes in the back, under a pop-rivoted cover that are freezing up. Pictures attached (I hope).


back side of B136CAR3

Picture
Expert:  Appliance Guru replied 275 days and 3 hours ago.

Have you taken off the inside panel in the freezer? That looks like it is on the back of the unit.

Customer replied 274 days and 22 hours ago.

You are correct, this is on the back of the unit. Are those lines supposed to ice up? I took the panel off because ice was forming on the outside of the unit, on the sheet metal over that area.


Earlier in this story I removed the back panel in the freezer -- it was totally iced over, in fact I could not even open the freezer drawer for quite a while.


Now the over-temp alarm is beeping every now and then. I removed the back panel again to inspect the vents (as suggested), they are clear.


In Summary:


  1. I defrosted for 2 days in 70+ degree weather

  2. I replaced the defrost thermostat as suggested, now it appears that no ice is building up for very long.

  3. I cleaned the condensors and evaporators (pre-evap, evap in freezer, and totally cleaned out the condenser on top of the unit).

  4. Temps dropped a lot (no longer luke warm).

  5. But at full max cold settings the unit almost never turns off

  6. The freezer can't even freeze a glass of ice overnight.

  7. The over-temp alarm fires off. The display panel indicates it's the refer section that's too warm.

  8. Ice is building up on pipes on the outside of the compartments.

  9. Fans are all running fine.


Just now I looked in the freezer vents with a flashlight and didn't see any ice build up.

If it's running all the time, and not doing a good job cooling and there's no ice build up anymore (after fixing the defrost thermo), everything is clean and clear... then what could it be? What's left? Bad temp sensors? if it's not the compressor or a leak in the cooling system? It's basically been like this off & on for a couple of years?




Sorry to keep pounding on this. I just keep running into one thing after the other and the result is the same. At first it appears to work, after I power off, then back on sometime later. Then it won't hold temp.


Arg! It's a super pricey unit, with cusXXXXX XXXXX panels that match our custom kitchen. I can't really afford to replace it with the same (thanks to the economy these days and unsteady jobs).

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Expert:  Appliance Guru replied 274 days and 8 hours ago.

You need to take the back panel of the freezer off again and look at the evaporator. It sounds like your system may be low on freon, you would get that icing like that if it is. If the evaporator is not frosted towards the bottom but is at the top where the lines come then the unit has a leak. This sounds like the case especially since it can not freeze water. Check that evaporator and let me know if the whole thing is frosty or just the very top. If you lick you finger it should stick to any part of the evaporator if the unit has enough gas and is pumping correctly. Here is a pick of a unit with barely any freon left

CLICK HERE
Appliance Guru41104.1286207986

Customer replied 274 days and 6 hours ago.

Good plan, I'll check again and let you know. hmm... Ya know... I just remember that when the tech came out, it was only frozen in one corner on the evaporator. way low by the vent. Look for my next post shortly. Thanks for sticking to this -- you've way beyond the call of duty!

Picture
Expert:  Appliance Guru replied 274 days and 1 hours ago.

No problem, check the link I sent you in the last post that is a great pic of a evap with low freon in the system.

 
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