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Justin
Justin, Appliance Technician
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Experience:  Owner of Shaffer's Appliance Service
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I have a GE Eterna series side by side fridge/freezer. My home

Customer Question

I have a GE Eterna series side by side fridge/freezer. My home air conditioning went out and it took me almost a week to have a unit replaced. I live in Phoenix, so temperatures in the house got up to almost 100 degrees. My freezer couldn't keep up and so everything in my freezer slowly started to thaw out. I have had AC for 3 days now (it is 75 in the house) and everything in the freezer has not frozen up again. It is cool inside the freezer, but only about as cool as the fridge.
The day the AC returned I removed the panel at the back of the fridge/freezer. There was a cylinder shaped unit made up of cooling fins, with a fan mounted in one end. I blew dust off of that as best as I could. There was also a few inches of what appears to be a cooling coil (small tubing bent into a repeating 'S' pattern). I blew the dust off what little of that I could reach as well. It has been two days since I cleaned it and it appears to be running better than it was, but not as good as it should be. I have the unit on the coldest settings, but it still has not frozen anything or produced any ice. Is there anything else I can do to fix it myself, or do I need a repairman? If I need a repairman, how much should it cost and what should I be looking for?
Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Barry G. replied 2 years ago.
Hello my name is XXXXX XXXXX you for choosing our service. I believe I can help you make the repair. When you cleaned the coils in the rear was that fan operating?

There is a sticker up high on the wall, may I have the model number from that sticker please?

Look in the freezer (even though it may be warm) at the lower rear inside wall, can you find a frosty spot anywhere? Sometimes you have to feel the wall as its difficult to see. Try not to miss it this is very very important

Check to see that the freezer fan is blowing steady air out of the vent in the freezer, is it?

Thanks,
Barry
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Yes, the fan in the rear was operating.

model ESS25LGMB BB
Here is a picture of the label;


There is a grate on the lower wall that has a tiny amount of frost on it. There is either no air, or very little, coming from the grate. Does that mean the fan is burnt up, or does the fan shut off automatically when I open the door? I can see a little more frost through the grating. I have included a picture and a closeup.


There is also a tiny amount of frost above that grate, but below the light;
Expert:  Barry G. replied 2 years ago.
Oh man that is great. I really appreciate the pictures. That makes everything just like I am there. Thank you.

Paul do you have an ohm meter? I see the problem thanks to you.
Barry
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I have a standard $20 electrical meter.
Expert:  Barry G. replied 2 years ago.
That is all you need will it measure ohms? If it will unplug the power cord from the wall outlet. This board is located under a smaller metal panel up on the rear outside wall.
Disconnect the connector on the main board, its blue and arrowed red in the picture below. Set your meter to ohms and put one lead from your meter in the blue connector (CENTER HOLE) where it was connected to the board. With the other lead from your meter rotate through the 2 prongs on the power cord that was in the wall outlet, skip the ground.

If you touch the probes together from the meter you will see a change from seperating the probes, thats what you are looking for. Do you see a change when you do that measurement?

Barry
CLICK TO ENLARGE
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I think I found the plug, it is light blue and has 2 grey wires, 2 blue wires, and one black wire going into it. It has three spots on the board it is connected to labelled "comp", "defr" and "line". I cannot remove it from the board because the connections are soldered in place.
Expert:  Barry G. replied 2 years ago.
That is the one. It fits tight but it does come off from those 3 spades on the board. Wiggle it a little and it will come off.

Barry
CLICK TO ENLARGE
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I was scared of breaking it, but you are right, it wiggled out.
meter set to OHM and 20k. When the probes are touched they read 0.00 (predictably)

Right plug to Comp = 0.00
Right plug to DEFR =0.02
Right plug to line = 0.76
Left plug to Comp= 0.76
Left plug to DEFR= 0.78
Left plug to line= 0.00

I performed these tests with the plug connected and unplugged; numbers are all the same.
Expert:  Barry G. replied 2 years ago.
Thank you.

That connector you took off from the board( the one that has the wires on it), what is the reading you get from the center of that connector to the power cord that was in the wall outlet?

There are 3 connections on the wall outlet power cord. The ground, and the 2 spades for the power. Let me know what those are.

Thanks,
Barry
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I did not check the ground plug like you said. The info I sent above is from the left and right spade plugs on the wall cord to the inside of the plug i disconnected from the board.
I assume that power is supposed to travel between one spade to the LINE wires (brown) through the board and reach the compressor, then continue to the other spade. From the two 0.00 readings I assume that means there is a break in continuity somewhere? Fuse or circuit breaker hopefully?
Expert:  Barry G. replied 2 years ago.
Thank you, XXXXX XXXXX put all of that back together and if you would like you can remove the lower rear inside panel in the freezer. Defrost the coils behind that panel and it will cool then for about 10 days. You can use a hair dryer to defrost the coils.

Yes there is a break. I will look up the part number and explain what to do. Give me 5 minutes.

Barry
Expert:  Barry G. replied 2 years ago.
Thank you, XXXXX XXXXX put all of that back together and if you would like you can remove the lower rear inside panel in the freezer. Defrost the coils behind that panel and it will cool then for about 10 days. You can use a hair dryer to defrost the coils.

Yes there is a broken part and it is the defrost heater. Arrowed pink below is the part with 2 screws. Remove the screws then the wires. The wires fit on that part very tightly so grasp it well near the wire you are pulling to get the wires off. There is a glass tube in there. Sometimes those wire connectors fit so tightly you need a pair of pliers to get them loose.
CLICK TO ENLARGE
graphic


Once you have defrosted those coils in the freezer you can tape the wire ends up until you get your part. Put the panel back up to direct the air and your refrigerator will cool about 10 days.

I have put the link to the part below. This is not the same part you have in your refrigerator, GE quit making those because they do not last long enough. They replaced it with a dual tube heater. It fits the same except one thing. When you get your part you will need to re-route either the pink or blue wire (depending on how the part mounts) to be able to connect the wires. The wire connectors on the new heater are now on the same side, not on opposite sides like the one you have now. The parts supplier below does have a year no questions asked warranty. That is a good warranty for parts. If you have questions please ask.

CLICK HERE FOR THE PART.

Barry
Barry G., Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 6226
Experience: 27 years in home appliance repair. EPA refrigerant transition and recovery certification type I & II.
Barry G. and 2 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I took off the panel and there was some frost around the coil; about a half inch, but not solid. I didn't use a hair dryer, I just left it unplugged and open for a couple hours. Once all the frost was gone I cleaned up the water and plugged it back in. The back grill inside is cold to the touch, but it has been 2 hours now and nothing has frozen. Is there possibly a different problem?

I ordered the new part you suggested, but I didn't remove the old one yet. Will this make a difference?
Expert:  Barry G. replied 2 years ago.
Was the frost from top to the bottom of the coils at that time? In other words were all of the coils cold, if so did you have the rear wall up to direct the air?

Thanks,
Barry
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
the bottom of the coils had more frost on them than the top. I am not exactly sure what you mean by 'had the rear wall up'. The panel on the back inside was installed exactly as it was meant to be, and I put it back like that too.
Expert:  Barry G. replied 2 years ago.
Thank you, XXXXX XXXXX fan in the freezer operating? If the coils are cold from top to bottom and the freezer inside fan is operating it should be getting cold.

Barry
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
there is a fan in the center of a cylinder unit which is accessed from the outside of the unit by removing the panel just below the circuit board. I assume that there is an internal fan as well; where is that located? Should it always be on, or is does it run intermittently?
Expert:  Barry G. replied 2 years ago.
The fan that is internal is in the freezer. If you look at the lower rear wall that panel that comes off. The fan is just above the coils there. If you hear anything at all that fan should be on. When you hear nothing else operating it should be off.

Barry
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Here are some pictures of the coil. I found the fan up near the light. Could you send me a link to the appropriate fan to buy? Do I need to change the fan and the heating coil, or just the fan and return the coil?


Expert:  Barry G. replied 2 years ago.
Is the fan motor in the freezer operating while you can hear the compressor? That defrost heater read bad. Unplug the refrigerator and remove the wires from the heater. Set your meter to ohms and read through them. It should read open, it read open from the control board.

Below is the link for the fan motor, do not order it yet I need to know if its operating.

www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Evaporator-Fan-Motor/WR60X10185/1170107?RCAID=1000064


Barry
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
No, the fan is not operating. Sorry I didn't mention that. The fan is also a huge pain in the ass to get to; i had to remove almost everything inside. The defrost heater looks black and discolored, not sure if it is supposed to look like that, I have included photos. Meter on OHM, 20K the defrost heater read 0.02 between the connections.
Expert:  Barry G. replied 2 years ago.
I thought that was what it would read. That is bad. Give me a few minutes to access my files, I am not at home so I am going to be a little slow. There is a check that needs to be made for that fan motor.

I will post shortly,
Barry
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Take your time, it is no emergency.
Expert:  Barry G. replied 2 years ago.
Set a meter above 20 volts DC and go around behind the fridge. Remove the 8 x 10 panel up on the rear outside wall.

Arrowed red is the connector to measure. Count holes from left to right just like you read. Not the wires but the holes in the connector.

Black meter probe in hole 3 and leave it there.
Red meter probe first in hole 4.
Then test again in hole 8.
The fridge must be operating and your looking for steady voltage "near 13 volts" In both tests.

Take your time and let me know what you find.

CLICK TO ENLARGE

graphic
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Hole 3 is 0.00. Hole 8 read -13.8. I have removed a lot of the components in front of the fan, but the pigtail to the fan itself is still connected. Not sure if that makes a difference.

edit; it was difficult to get the test leads into 3 and 4, so that might be a bad read. I went inside, disconnected the fan pigtail and tested that. I used the white with grey stripe wire (same color as hole#3 on the board connector) for the black lead and tested the others. Two holes have a black wire jumping between them so I didn't bother testing them.
White with grey stripe to;
red= -13.8
blue= -5.3
yellow= 0.00

Expert:  Barry G. replied 2 years ago.
If you are sure you measured the correct wires for those pinouts on the board the board is bad as well. What you may want to do is unplug the refrigerator, stick come paper clips in those holes and make sure they are safe. Plug the refrigerator in and measure again. I am headed home, will be there in about a half an hour.

Barry
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
i assume that I leave the plug connected to the board to perform this test? BTW, this is turning out to be a long question for you. I have unlimited questions by the month, so it is perfectly fine with me to close the question after each response.
Expert:  Barry G. replied 2 years ago.
Yes leave the board connector connected and the refrigerator on. The voltage is a little more than a nine volt battery so you do not need to worry about a shock, just stay clear of the big one with the 3 connectors.

Thanks for the offer. Lets see how it goes, I still think we are doing follow ups Smile

Barry
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I used a couple alan wrenches and retested the board; same reading. 0.0 on hole 4, -13.8 on hole 8. It seems rather unlikely that my heater, fan, and circuit board all went out at once though. The freezer is kinda working now. The coil gets cold, it seems like replacing the fan would have it running properly.
Expert:  Barry G. replied 2 years ago.
You can try a fan motor but the readings on the board are no good, its showing a bad power output from the board (bad board). You should get 2 12 volt measurements or close to it. The heater should show continuity when the coils are frosty cold and it did'nt. Maybe the heater was'nt tested while the freezer coils were cold?

Barry
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I don't remember very well, but it is very possible that the heater was tested when the coils were not cold. I know one of the test I did was when it was removed from the fridge entirely.
Does this mean that my fan and heater may be good, but the board is bad? How much is a new board?
Expert:  Barry G. replied 2 years ago.
Yes the board is bad. Yes thats right I forgot about the heater being out. That was a good test, it was isolated without the thermostat being wired in. That heater is bad too. I know its unbelievable but its not reading good.

The meter does change when you touch the probes together in an ohms setting?

$162.45 at the link below. That price can be beat if you shop around but the warranty cannot be beat. A year warranty no questions asked is a very good warranty. Wr55x10942 is the factory part number.

www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Main-Control-Board/WR55X10942/1531075?RCAID=1000064


Barry
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
testing the heater;
the meter is set to OHM 20k, when the probes are touched it starts displaying numbers and drops to 0.00 and stays there.

the heater is totally disconnected from the freezer. the meter bounces around a little and settles on 0.02.
Expert:  Barry G. replied 2 years ago.
I missed the 20K part, its reading good.

Barry
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Is the fan supposed to run all the time? The fridge works fine, the coils work, and the heater works. It seems like the only problem is the fan. If it runs all the time anyway it seems like I should be able to just run 12V to it (if the fan is good).
Expert:  Barry G. replied 2 years ago.
Yes you can do that as a test. Attach the red and blue to a battery it should run.

Then attach the red and yellow. It should also run. If it does when connected both ways its good. If it does not it is bad.

That fan motor only runs when the compressor is on and does not run when the compressor is off. They always work together at the same time.

Barry

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I hooked the fan up to both a 9v battery and a car battery; red and blue hooked up to the terminals, and red and yellow to the terminals. Nothing with either combination. I already ordered a fan, so I will see what happens when I hook up the new fan.
Expert:  Barry G. replied 2 years ago.
Unbelievable. Yes a 9 volt is all that is needed. Have one right here I hooked up to a volt meter battery just to be sure I was telling you correctly.

Barry
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I received the new fan this morning. I still have everything inside disassembled, so I plugged the fan in to the open pigtail. Nothing. I hooked the fan up to a 9v battery as described above, still nothing. Either the company sent me a brand new fan that doesn't work, or that test is flawed.
Expert:  Barry G. replied 2 years ago.
Try red and white.

Barry
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
red and white also does nothing. I tried every possible combination involving only two wires on both fan motors. Obviously one of the 4 wires is a control wire.
Expert:  Barry G. replied 2 years ago.
I found my diagram and scanned that part into a file. I am not sure what is going on. Those motors should run if they are good.

CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD.

Barry
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Relist: Other.
Barry helped me to the best of his ability and I have no problem with his service. However, apparently we are missing something. I would like the entire message thread to be forwarded to another expert for a 2nd opinion.
Expert:  Justin replied 2 years ago.
Hi, I was reading through this, the one thing you said was you tested the heater and had the meter set at 20k. That's way too high. The heater should test at 27 ohms or very close. Check that again, but set your meter at it's lowest setting possible, my meter for example will test 200 ohms or lower, and 200k and lower. I'd use the 200 ohms test. You can test this at the board too. The three wire connector with brown black and blue wires. Pull that connection, test from blue to ANY orange wire. Orange is neutral. See if that says 27 ohms. It does look like you aren't defrosting properly, but I'd like to start fresh with you since I'm new to this question. Respond at your convenience and I'll do my best to get back to you in a timely manner.
Expert:  Justin replied 2 years ago.
One other thing I'd have you test is the thermistors, but first thing is first.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Meter set on 200:
Probes touching = 00.4
Through old heater = 21.8
Brand new heater = 27.2

Btw, the new heater is from the link listed above. It is several inches shorter.

There is only one orange wire on the board, part of an 8-wire bundle going to a connector just below the blue/brown/black connector. I tested the blue wire and the pin it was connected to, both with the unit plugged in and unplugged. The meter read the same as when the probes are unplugged with any combination. I have everything removed inside the freezer (heater, fan, light, ice maker, etc) which may effect the test.

While the heater may or may not have a problem, the fan definitely does.
Expert:  Justin replied 2 years ago.
Find the J2 connector on the board. Measure the first colored wires to ANY blue wire on that bundle. Set your meter high to read in the 10s of thousands of ohms. You must pull the connector from the board first. Be extremely accurate with your readings. Pin J2-1 to blue, pin J2-2 (if there is a wire in this pin, it may be void of one) J2-3 to blue and J2-4 to blue. Be very accurate!!
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
There is no reading between the blue wire and any of the pins on the board once the connector is unplugged, so I assume you mean to check between the wires.
Meter on OHM 20k;
Blue wire (J-8) to;

Red (j2-1)= 16.29
Brown (j2-2)= no reading
Black +white (j2-3)= no reading
Yellow (j2-4) = no reading
Yellow +black (j2-5) = no reading
White + grey (j2-6) = 17.79
Blue + white (j2-7) = 16.80
Expert:  Justin replied 2 years ago.
On the J2 connection pins 1-4 are white, brown, yellow and possibly one other if J2-2 is filled. These are the temperature thermistors. You aren't checking the board, you're checking the harness to test these sensors. You have two with no readings. This is nearly impossible. From the left of J2, unplugged, test that wire to blue on the same plug through J2-1 to J2-4
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
There are no connections to the board with those colored wires. I have included several pictures of the board. The pic of me holding a connection is of the J2 connector. It is labeled "J2" just above where this connection plugs in on the board.
Expert:  Justin replied 2 years ago.
I see that. Ok, this isn't a problem, just unusual. Is the evaporator fan motor still not running?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I am not h one is the evap fan. I assume you mean the one below the circuit board at the rear that is mounted in a squirrel cage. Yes, that one runs.

The other fan, the one located inside the freezer has not ran at all under any circumstance; old motor, new motor, plugged into unit, 9v, or car battery.
Expert:  Justin replied 2 years ago.
I see. Have you replaced that Motherboard? I read through the previous experts questions to you, and didn't see that you had.
Expert:  Justin replied 2 years ago.
I'm very sorry, I said J2 connector. Look at the J1 connector. Do you see it? Pull it from the board, measure J1-1 to blue J1-5, and J1-2 to J1-5, and J1-3 to J1-5, and J1-4 to J1-5. Sorry for the confusion. J2 is the fan motor circuit, what I want you to check is the thermistor circuit. for resistance. Thanks.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
No, I have not changed the board yet. Since I already have a brand new heater and fan which I apparently don't need, I didn't want to go spend $150 on another part. Before I saw your last post I conducted the test at http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/refrigerator-fan-motor.html listed under the evap fan section.
J2-3 to J2-8 = 13.5v
J2-3 to J2-4 = -0.05

Apparently this means that I need a new board. Unless there is a chance that there is something wrong with the thermistor circuit which caused this? I will go conduct the test listed in your last post now.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
J1-1 to J1-5 = 10.0
J1-2 to J1-5 = 13.9
J1-3 to J1-5 = 16.9
J1-4 to J1-5 = 44.8

Meter set on OHM 200k
Expert:  Justin replied 2 years ago.

Ok, the first result of 10k reads 50 degrees, the second result of 13.9k reads around 38 degrees, these are your fresh food thermistors. The third result 16.9k reads 30 degrees, and the final result of 44.8k reads around 0 degrees.

Remove J2 harness and check resistance between red pin 8 and white pin 3. What is the resistance there? If it is 1.5k to 3k we can move on to next step.

Check the resistance on J2-3 white wire to J2-4 yellow wire. Does the circuit read open?

Plug J2 back into board. Check voltage at white wire J2-3 to same J2-4 yellow wire. What is the DC voltage reading?

Answer all these questions and we'll have an answer most likely.

Expert:  replied 2 years ago.
Ahh, I just saw you checked for voltage at J2-3 to J2-4 and had 0 VDC reading, Yes, you need a new motherboard. Way to go!!!!
Justin, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 828
Experience: Owner of Shaffer's Appliance Service
Justin and 2 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I received my circuit board today. It is slightly different, but it had all the right connectors so I hooked it up. The the fan started working correctly. The old fan works fine too (it wasvspinning at a high rate of speed and didn't make any noise). Can I keep the old fan and return the new one, or should I install the new fan? Also, can I use the old heater (the new one is shorter and has two filaments instead of one, not even sure if it will fit).
Do you have a link to step by step reassembly instructions? I have everything inside removed. I think I can figure it out, but instructions would be nice. Thanks for your time.
Expert:  replied 2 years ago.
You can probably send the new fan back. The double glass tube heater is a replacement for the original one. You would take the blue wire from the left side of the evaporator and move it over to the right. The heater mounting holes should match up. The instructions with the heater should be in the box. If the holes do not line up, you have the wrong heater. I don't really have step by step reassembly instructions, as I have no idea how far you have the unit disassembled. I can tell you, the evaporator panel goes on last :) Took a while to get the answer to your problem, which is why I got the technical documentation out so you could do some proper voltage tests without a guessing game. Please remember, I was not the original expert working on this with you. I hope you can please be generous with your rating of me. Thanks.
Justin, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 828
Experience: Owner of Shaffer's Appliance Service
Justin and 2 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I finally got the new circuit board and installed it on friday. It was running great. A few minutes ago the unit suddenly started making a loud humming noise. It seems to be coming from inside the freezer near the light assembly. As the fan is located near there I assumed that this means I need to change the fan?
Expert:  Justin replied 2 years ago.
Make sure the plastic fan slinger around the shaft is not rubbing on the fan motor body. If it is, slide it up halfway between the fan blade and fan motor. If it isn't, then yes, you must replace the fan motor. On these units, sometimes the fan motor is what causes the board failure. It usually sounds like a whirring noise.

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  • http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/TE/Teamcold/2012-6-15_15028_HomeRepairsquarecopy.64x64.jpg Barry G.'s Avatar

    Barry G.

    Home Appliance Technician

    Satisfied Customers:

    5039
    27 years in home appliance repair. EPA refrigerant transition and recovery certification type I & II.
 
 
 

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