I have a Maytag refrigerator, model MTB2156BE from about 2000 and it runs fine, but simply will no longer shut off - it runs all the time. We've turned the controls down as far as they will go, but it still wants to work all the time.
Type of Appliance: Refrigerator
I called Maytag repair. They suggested unplugging it for 5 minutes. I did so but it simply restarts as soon as I plug it back in.
Hello my name is XXXXX XXXXX you for choosing our service.Are food items in the fresh food section freezing solid?Barry
No, fridge part is cold, but not frozen solid. Milk and other liquids still drinkable. Freezer is working just fine.
Thank you. Unplug the Refrigerator,Lower the part arrowed red in the fresh food section. Then check the part arrowed blue. Is that part shut? If it is shut is the freezer setting turned up to the coldest setting?CLICK TO ENLARGE
i took the larger part down. I cannot see if the other part is open or closed. Despite the diagram it is not easy to see as it is buried. Our freezer setting is currently about its lowest level possible.
I understand, what that part does is trap air in the freezer. If it were stuck shut its possible it would cause the refrigerator to run all the time because not much air is being circulated to the fresh food section. If things in the fresh food are not frozen then I believe that part is shut. Try a straw or a pen and see if it will go up through the hole. Did that work?Barry
Hi Barry, it is most definitely open. I was able to push a straw through and could see it below. When i tried it, i could get my fingers to just reach through the little opening. I could feel the little flapper also.
Hi, well I will have to say I was not expecting that. In the freezer is there frost on the rear freezer wall?Barry
No obvious frost.
If the freezer fan is operating, go around behind the refrigerator and check the rear fan. Is that one operating? Also is that box the fan is mounted to clogged up with dust? And lastly have you heard anything buzz or click?Please take your time,Barry
Hi Barry,the condenser fan operates very nicely. I do clean the condenser and area of dust from time to time, so no particular build up. I did notice anything click or buzz. How loud and where might such a click occur? I have little panel covering at the back off now.Can I put the controls panel part (red arrow) back in place yet? I can't close the fridge door with it down.
Yes I am sorry, please take time to do that.The click or buzz is loud enough that if you were near the room you would hear it. The last thing to do is remove the rear inside freezer wall and take a look at the frost pattern on the coils. Are the coils lightly frosted from top to bottom behind that rear inside wall?I will be here, no reason to rush.Barry
Okay, success with getting the freezer inside panel out of the way. The frost on the evaporator coils is very light, and about even from top to bottom. There is a large clump of ice just at the upper right end of the coil, where the tube comes in. This is quite large, say larger than an open hand. Should I try to remove it? I currently have the fridge unplugged and the freezer door open.
Well don't try to break it off, its probably on a very thin tube and that is fragile, you can try melting it off. But if you use a hair dryer and the rear wall is plastic be very careful. it will blister very quick.I am going to have to guess that the damper is closing earlier than it should trapping the cold air in the freezer.. Its automatic, what shuts the refrigerator off is the other control and if that damper is closing to soon that control is not getting satisfied and the refrigerator will continue to run. What I would do is lower the freezer temperature, that will allow more air into the fresh food section. Leave the fresh food set where you normally keep it and let me know how it does overnight tomorrow sometime. If adjusting the freezer warmer does not work that damper is bad but in any case let me know. I don't want to send a final answer on a guess. If you have questions please ask.Barry
Hi Barry, we normally keep the freezer on a very low setting, so we can't get it to be any lower. My wife says that the fridge temperature, even on the lowest setting, is a bit too cold and pickles at the back will frost up etc. so i think my reply to the first or second question maybe wasn't quite right.I am currently carefully defrosting the big lump of ice. I see what you mean about the thin tube.If there is more to tell me tonight, let me know. Otherwise i will send a report to you tomorrow, but i don't know how to once this window is closed. Is there another way to get hold of you?
I understand, that changes things. You need a part and I will look it up for you. First thing you need to do is save this page to your favorites and you can return whenever you like. My normal hours are 8 to 8 eastern time. Just a few minutes.Barry
The temperature control attached to the fresh food knob is the one to replace. That is what keeps the normal temperature in the fresh food and does shut the refrigerator off and on. The other control does not. The factory part number is XXXXX AP Wagoner is the only appliance parts store in Canada that I know and they did not have it. If you know of another you can shop there with that number and get that part. I did put a US dealer below who ships to Canada. If you have questions please ask.CLICK HEREThanks,Barry
Not sure of which control you mean. The one that was on the diagram you sent that is attached to the freezer control (it rotates when the freezer control slides back and forth). What other control is there?
I am sorry the diagram did not come through. Use the part number 61002043 to shop with or CLICK HERE for a link to the part.I have the part arrowed blue and its attached to the knob for the fresh food section.BarryCLICK TO ENLARGEBarry G41089.9741719907
27 years in home appliance repair. EPA refrigerant transition and recovery certification type I II.
Turns out the temperature controller made no difference. Problem still unresolved. I think there is not enough Freon in the compression loop and the unit works very hard to make the required conditions from the amount that is present. As such, it chugs away about 2/3 of the time, instead of the expected ¼ of the time.David xxxxxx
If there not enough freon the freezer coils will not be lightly coated with frost from top to bottom. Too much freon and you have ice freezing on the return line at the compressor and melting onto the floor. An accurately charged refrigerator will evenly coat the freezer coils. That only leaves an airflow problem and a temperature control problem. There appears to not be an airflow problem as you stated the coils were not clogged with frost but lightly coated from top to bottom which is as it should be. Is the freezer fan not operating?Also refrigerators operate at near 50% on and operating. I do not ever recall one operating at 25% run time.Thanks,Barry
To figure out how much of the time it should run I measured the instantaneous load (207 W) and used the predicted annual energy of 454 kWh / year. This gives about 25% run time. I agree that during times of particular hot days the refrigerator might run more, but it should never run as high as 1/2 of the time, or you would never get the annual performance numbers, as there is NO time that the fridge runs at zero load for an extended period of time. Also, it is not particular warm in Edmonton right now, so there is no reason the fridge is running even more than one would expect. Yes, the fan on the condenser is running well and the condenser is clean. The return line to the compressor does freeze up, so that might indicate an excess of freon. If so, then we've had that all along which is always possible. As the fridge is at least 13 years old, I'm not certain that spending more to fix it is warranted and so for $853 I bought a brand new one with a better annual rating.Thanks for your patience in going through all this.
You are very welcome. I have never done the calculations, I have had customers ask that very question in the past more than once, and the only solution I am left with is to call the manufacturer from the customers home. I have called the manufacturers support from their homes to verify my statement on many occasions. I learned that from the manufacturer. If that statement is incorrect then the people who are making the appliances are not telling it true. Another sign of frost at the compressor is a broken or a cracked valve internal to the compressor. You can watch the frost as it develops at start up. A cracked valve will start frosting at the compressor first and the frost will work its way away from the compressor. An overcharge will work in the opposite way. That will start away from the compressor and work its way toward the compressor.Thanks,BarryBarry G41096.6914975694