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A 20-25 degree temperature swing would be considered normal or ok or operating properly
but the 30 and 40 is not correct
What are you using to check the temperature with?
One thing to point out your set temperature would be an average temperature
Most oven thermometers are slow acting and won't react to the temperature swings but will show the average temperature
After it preheats does it maintain the proper temperature?
say if you set it for 350 and after 20-25 minutes does it hold at that temperature?
The temperature drops 30 degrees below and sometimes will come back up close but not over the set temp
What does the oven control read?
I set 350 it preheats to 390 then settles to about 30 degrees below and sometimes will heat back up
Are you using an oven thermometer or are you going by the display on the oven control?
I am using an EXtech meter wwith a thermistor
Oh ok your giving me the reading from your oven temp tester
The over swing in the preheat is acceptible
but the oven temperature on average should be what you have the oven set for
you should see about a 20-25 temperature swing above and below what you have the temperature set at
If your not getting that then the oven temperature sensor is probably the cause
yes and that is how i saw the large swings and I figured it was averaging anyway above and below otherwise it would cycle to much. I undeerstand the averageign I think if that is right. Also todya it wa ssuppose dto be cooking at 350 and I stuck the thermistor in and it was only 225 degrees.
I see by your info just now that i was correct about the averging. It just doesn't want to come back on when it goes below. It goes way too far. So you tink the thermistor (sensor) sticking out about 6" on the upper left is bad?
That is probably the issue, if it's not maintaining the proper temp then that is typically what fails, it's not sensing the proper temperature
Yes you were correct about average temp of the oven
PART NUMBER: WB20K0004
Above is the part number for the oven sensor
Great. Also you may be right because every time I set a new temp it always lights and trys to go to that temp. It is only after that when it seems to not know what to do at what temp.
Thanks for confirming that with me and it looks like the sensor can be replaced by the 2 screws inside the oven and perhaps there is a connector on the wire end?
Yes they are pretty easy to replace, there is a connector behind it that you should be able to do from inside the oven, if not just pull it out and take the back panel off.
Great. This is the first time I used this service and since I am in electronics I figured I just needed to confirm my theory with someone who is familiar. I really like this mode of obtaining info so I will definately pay fro it again. Thanks so much an I was pretty satisfied with how this went and the part number you gaveme.
where online should I get thes pat? Or just look up GE hotpoin parts right?
Your welcome and thank you for using just answer.
Sears parts direct has them, also, appliance parts pros, appliance zone, or type in appliance parts in your browser to bring up your local listings
Sure and I will rate you the highest, you definitately know your stuff. Thanks so much .
Your welcome and thank you very much
okay thanks have a great evening.
I will and you do the same
Bye for now...
Tim,This is Jamie about the RGB745BEH3WH GE Hotpoint stove you helped me with (Asked by you on Tuesday, June 26, 2012 7:07 PM EST).I changed the thermistor and the problem remained.This is how it is working. I set a temp say 350. It goes to 390 in preheat and then goes off. The temp drops and at the lower temp 325 or there abouts I see the heater ignite, and then after a time the main gas does NOT come on. then the heater goes off. It keeps recycling but the main gas never goes on again.THEN, I set it to 355 and it preheats right away again with the main gas on. Then it repeats the same thing again with the new temp.The problem appears that the main gas coes not get turned on again in reheat. The heater or igniter element does come on and off.
The igniter is just on for about a miniute then it goes off. There seems to be a time-out for the igniter if the temp does not rise within some period or at least that's my guess.
The problem is that if I set a new preheat temp while it is acting up, the main gas valve goes on and it preheats up to the temp+.
It is when it comes down again, that this probelm occurs. So how could I have a weak ingniter etc. if it the main gas valve always works on preheat?
It just doesn't seem to turn the main gas valve on in the preheat mode.
Do you have any more clarification on this before I try to measure the current? Also it looks like the heater is nice and bright. And, the gas has never failed to come on in preheat.
Actually that is the reheat mode not the preheat mode. sorry bout that
"It just doesn't seem to turn the main gas valve on in the REHEAT mode"
Is the ignitor and the gas valve coil in series together?
I will try to measure the current as you suggest. it may take a while to get to it.
It is between to counters so I would most likely have to pull it out. The main problem is that the gas line is short and I may hav to disconnect the gas line to access.
Assuming you are correct, why does the preheat work every time? I am sort of confused with that one.
Well let me know about my first question while I try to get the answer on the other. If they are in series I could kind of see what you are saying.
Okay I am currently going to tyr to check the current with my clamp.
Can I access the wire to the igniter from inside the bottom of the stove or do I nee to pull it out. Also is there a wire going down the back I can clamp on to without pulling the stove out?
also if I turn the gas off at the wall, can I observe the ignitor and check it from inside like i said?
Just did that.
The broiler ingniter that we have never used yet is measuring 3.35 amps and the main gas igniter below that is bad is measuring 2.6 amps.
Does this mean the ignitor is bad that measures 2.6 amps?
I hope this will be it it gets expensive when it is trial and error. although I guess you need all of the info to get to the actual problem.
Are these correct?
I put the model number into Sears Parts Direct...
PART NUMBER: WB13K21 this is the part number for the igniter, there are cheaper universal igniters available that you can match up to what you have, and you can always cut and splice the wires if needed.
Is it better to use the number suggested or will the universal one be just as good for life expectancy?
Otherwise I will buy the one listed.
What is your take on this?
I just want it to be reliable for awhile. Perhaps the universal one eill fail sooner?
Not to appear too stupid, how do I go about getting the proper universal number or part?
Sorry for the question.
It has the 2 screw mounting holes on the side?
Also, we never use the broiler so should I remove it and put it down below and just wire nut cap off the broiler wires. The solenoid for the gas valve up htere would stay off right?
I will probably buy the one you jus tlisted though, it was just an idea I had.
I'll wait for your reply about the mounting.
I was just on Amazon and put the WB13K21 number in and it came up for about18-20 dollars. Should I go that way.. Sounds pretty good yes?
Okay then I have used up enough of your time, I will get one and I will let you know how it all turned out.
Many thanks for yur help and I will rate you when I have finished this time. I didn't know that it closes the account when you rate someone.
Either way you will get a great rating for your help. Talk with you soonin a couple of days. Thanks and good evening...
I keep getting "rate you e-mails". I have received about 5 since yesterday. I don't want to rate you until I fix the oven in case i have more questions. They told me not to rate you untill i am done or it will close the current case file.
So, I have ordered the igniter and I am waiting for it in the mail shich it should arrive around tuesday/wed.
Have a nice day and I will definitaly be in touch.
Most important, it works!!!!! Stays right above set temp. Great!!!!
I wanted to reply to tell you thanks for the help and added knowledge for future repairs. It's great to be somewhat familiar now with the operation. I never knew that the igniter was in series with the coil in the gas valve unit. It really make sense and I can measure the current next time. I also ordered a spare to keep on hand for the next 8 year repair. Well, I'm off and you can reply if you want. I will use you next time if you are still here. Our furnace is having a similar problem of the glow and it tries to light and then goes out. It does it a few times and then finally lights. Well, when that goes out, I'll look you up for a new session of course and I can get familiar with the furnace.
Chow for now, have a good week!!!! Bye... Jamie