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Tim Alan
Tim Alan, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 1241
Experience:  Amana, A&E (Whirlpool) ,and Maytag factory service
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I have a model RGB745BEH3WH GE Hotpoint stove. You set the

Customer Question

I have a model RGB745BEH3WH GE Hotpoint stove. You set the temp, it goes 40 degrees above set temp in pre heat, then goes off, waits and goes 30 degrees below set and back up again. Sometimes it never goes back up again. Is the hysteresis correct anyway? Or should it go on and off right at the setpoint you put in.? What could the failure be?
Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.

Tim Alan :

Hi my name isXXXXX will try and help you with your issue.

Tim Alan :

A 20-25 degree temperature swing would be considered normal or ok or operating properly

Tim Alan :

but the 30 and 40 is not correct

Tim Alan :

What are you using to check the temperature with?

Tim Alan :

One thing to point out your set temperature would be an average temperature

Tim Alan :

Most oven thermometers are slow acting and won't react to the temperature swings but will show the average temperature

Tim Alan :

After it preheats does it maintain the proper temperature?

Tim Alan :

say if you set it for 350 and after 20-25 minutes does it hold at that temperature?

Customer:

The temperature drops 30 degrees below and sometimes will come back up close but not over the set temp

Tim Alan :

What does the oven control read?

Customer:

I set 350 it preheats to 390 then settles to about 30 degrees below and sometimes will heat back up

Tim Alan :

Are you using an oven thermometer or are you going by the display on the oven control?

Customer:

I am using an EXtech meter wwith a thermistor

Tim Alan :

Oh ok your giving me the reading from your oven temp tester

Tim Alan :

The over swing in the preheat is acceptible

Tim Alan :

but the oven temperature on average should be what you have the oven set for

Tim Alan :

you should see about a 20-25 temperature swing above and below what you have the temperature set at

Tim Alan :

If your not getting that then the oven temperature sensor is probably the cause

Customer:

yes and that is how i saw the large swings and I figured it was averaging anyway above and below otherwise it would cycle to much. I undeerstand the averageign I think if that is right. Also todya it wa ssuppose dto be cooking at 350 and I stuck the thermistor in and it was only 225 degrees.


I see by your info just now that i was correct about the averging. It just doesn't want to come back on when it goes below. It goes way too far. So you tink the thermistor (sensor) sticking out about 6" on the upper left is bad?

Tim Alan :

That is probably the issue, if it's not maintaining the proper temp then that is typically what fails, it's not sensing the proper temperature

Tim Alan :

Yes you were correct about average temp of the oven

Tim Alan :

Sensor


PART NUMBER: WB20K0004


Substitution: WB21X5301

Tim Alan :

Above is the part number for the oven sensor

Customer:

Great. Also you may be right because every time I set a new temp it always lights and trys to go to that temp. It is only after that when it seems to not know what to do at what temp.


Thanks for confirming that with me and it looks like the sensor can be replaced by the 2 screws inside the oven and perhaps there is a connector on the wire end?

Tim Alan :

Yes they are pretty easy to replace, there is a connector behind it that you should be able to do from inside the oven, if not just pull it out and take the back panel off.

Customer:

Great. This is the first time I used this service and since I am in electronics I figured I just needed to confirm my theory with someone who is familiar. I really like this mode of obtaining info so I will definately pay fro it again. Thanks so much an I was pretty satisfied with how this went and the part number you gaveme.


where online should I get thes pat? Or just look up GE hotpoin parts right?

Tim Alan :

Your welcome and thank you for using just answer.

Tim Alan :

Sears parts direct has them, also, appliance parts pros, appliance zone, or type in appliance parts in your browser to bring up your local listings

Customer:

Sure and I will rate you the highest, you definitately know your stuff. Thanks so much .


 

Tim Alan :

Your welcome and thank you very much

Customer:

okay thanks have a great evening.


 

Customer:
Tim Alan :

I will and you do the same

Customer:

Bye for now...


 

Customer:
Tim Alan, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 1241
Experience: Amana, A&E (Whirlpool) ,and Maytag factory service
Tim Alan and 4 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Tim,

This is Jamie about the RGB745BEH3WH GE Hotpoint stove you helped me with (Asked by you on Tuesday, June 26, 2012 7:07 PM EST).

I changed the thermistor and the problem remained.

This is how it is working. I set a temp say 350. It goes to 390 in preheat and then goes off. The temp drops and at the lower temp 325 or there abouts I see the heater ignite, and then after a time the main gas does NOT come on. then the heater goes off. It keeps recycling but the main gas never goes on again.
THEN, I set it to 355 and it preheats right away again with the main gas on. Then it repeats the same thing again with the new temp.
The problem appears that the main gas coes not get turned on again in reheat. The heater or igniter element does come on and off.

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Tim, this jamie are you there?
Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.
Hi, I was offline and just happened to check my email. Don't assume that the gas valve is bad, the igniter has to pull 3.5 amps in order to open the valve, most of the time when the valve does not open or the flame ignites it is actually a weak igniter. That is very strange that it is cycling on and off though. if you have a volt ohm meter check the power to the igniter, when there is a call for heat 120 volts should be present at the igniter until the temperature is satisfied. Also if you have access to an amp probe check the amp draw of the igniter while it is glowing. So check for power at the igniter it should be constant when the oven temperature is lower then the set temperature and the amp draw of the igniter when it is glowing.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Tim,

The igniter is just on for about a miniute then it goes off. There seems to be a time-out for the igniter if the temp does not rise within some period or at least that's my guess.

The problem is that if I set a new preheat temp while it is acting up, the main gas valve goes on and it preheats up to the temp+.

It is when it comes down again, that this probelm occurs. So how could I have a weak ingniter etc. if it the main gas valve always works on preheat?

It just doesn't seem to turn the main gas valve on in the preheat mode.

Do you have any more clarification on this before I try to measure the current? Also it looks like the heater is nice and bright. And, the gas has never failed to come on in preheat.

Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Actually that is the reheat mode not the preheat mode. sorry bout that

"It just doesn't seem to turn the main gas valve on in the REHEAT mode"

Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.
I am not assuming anything at this point, valves rarely go out/fail and when an igniter is weak it very well could open the gas valve 1 or 2 times and then fail to do so. Don't go by looks of the igniter, typically when a valve fails it's the solenoid that is open and the igniter would fail to glow at all. I just want to know what the amp draw is on the igniter, if it is below 3.5 then it's weak and failing to open the gas valve. The reheat mode could cycle the igniter on and off even if the temp is not up but on bake it should remain on if the temp is not up.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Tim,

Is the ignitor and the gas valve coil in series together?

I will try to measure the current as you suggest. it may take a while to get to it.

It is between to counters so I would most likely have to pull it out. The main problem is that the gas line is short and I may hav to disconnect the gas line to access.

Assuming you are correct, why does the preheat work every time? I am sort of confused with that one.

Well let me know about my first question while I try to get the answer on the other. If they are in series I could kind of see what you are saying.

Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.
The neutral for the igniter goes through the valve coil, the hot wire would be supplied from the control for the igniter. An indication of a weak igniter is exactly what you are describing it glows but the gas does not ignite. Again I am trying to narrow down the problem here, the igniter would be the easiest to check, besides that you have the valve itself and the control board. I find it hard to believe that it would be either of those 2 until we eliminate the igniter.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Okay I am currently going to tyr to check the current with my clamp.

Can I access the wire to the igniter from inside the bottom of the stove or do I nee to pull it out. Also is there a wire going down the back I can clamp on to without pulling the stove out?


also if I turn the gas off at the wall, can I observe the ignitor and check it from inside like i said?

Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.
The igniter would have a wire going from the control down the back, not sure which wire that would be and one from the gas valve also, you may be able to get to it from underneath, that is what I do most of the time. You can check the igniter without the bas on if you have to, I have done that also just access the wires right off the igniter.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Tim,

Just did that.

The broiler ingniter that we have never used yet is measuring 3.35 amps and the main gas igniter below that is bad is measuring 2.6 amps.

Does this mean the ignitor is bad that measures 2.6 amps?

I hope this will be it it gets expensive when it is trial and error. although I guess you need all of the info to get to the actual problem.

Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.
Yes that igniter is weak at 2.6, I am surprised it opened the valve at all, normally it wouldn't that is why I didn't suspect the igniter the first time. Replace that igniter, i really don't think it's the control or the valve.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Are these correct?

I put the model number into Sears Parts Direct...

WB13K0021

sub; WB13K21

Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.
Igniter

PART NUMBER: WB13K21 this is the part number for the igniter, there are cheaper universal igniters available that you can match up to what you have, and you can always cut and splice the wires if needed.

Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Is it better to use the number suggested or will the universal one be just as good for life expectancy?

Otherwise I will buy the one listed.

What is your take on this?

I just want it to be reliable for awhile. Perhaps the universal one eill fail sooner?

Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.
They are all made by the same manufacturer and I have found the universal just as good if not better and GE parts are a lot more expensive then they need to be. You can probably find a universal at roughly half the cost, it's up to you what you want to use but it's basically the same part.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Tim,

Not to appear too stupid, how do I go about getting the proper universal number or part?

Sorry for the question.

Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.
12400035 this is a part number for a universal that should work for you, it is the one I use and fits most applications for a flat igniter, it will not work for the round igniter that GE sometimes uses. I was just looking that up for you.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

It has the 2 screw mounting holes on the side?

Also, we never use the broiler so should I remove it and put it down below and just wire nut cap off the broiler wires. The solenoid for the gas valve up htere would stay off right?

I will probably buy the one you jus tlisted though, it was just an idea I had.

I'll wait for your reply about the mounting.

Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.
Yes they all have the 2 screw mounting holes. If you move the igniter from the broiler down to the bake that should work and if the valve doesn't have power going through it, it will remain closed.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

I was just on Amazon and put the WB13K21 number in and it came up for about18-20 dollars. Should I go that way.. Sounds pretty good yes?

Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.
wow that is cheap, make sure it's new and unused but you can't beat that price.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
you can check this out. there are multiple sellers on this part. Too good to be true? or just low prices...
Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.
Appliance parts pros are right around 30 bucks, so it's not too far out of line.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Okay then I have used up enough of your time, I will get one and I will let you know how it all turned out.

Many thanks for yur help and I will rate you when I have finished this time. I didn't know that it closes the account when you rate someone.

Either way you will get a great rating for your help. Talk with you soonin a couple of days. Thanks and good evening...

Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.
Your welcome and thank you, XXXXX XXXXX great evening and a good weekend. Time for me to log off and get some sleep.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Chow!!!
Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.
Just let me know what happens.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Tim,


 


I keep getting "rate you e-mails". I have received about 5 since yesterday. I don't want to rate you until I fix the oven in case i have more questions. They told me not to rate you untill i am done or it will close the current case file.


So, I have ordered the igniter and I am waiting for it in the mail shich it should arrive around tuesday/wed.


Have a nice day and I will definitaly be in touch.


Regards, Jamie

Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.
That is an automatic email, I don't know why you are getting those, as far as I am concerned you already rated me. Just ignore them, what I will do is close the question on my end, you can always reopen the question later, I think then you will stop getting those emails. Let me know if there are any problems, as far as rating me don't worry about it. Also once I close the question, don't respond back unless you have any further issues, or need further assistance. If you reply back then you will start getting those emails again.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Tim,

 

Most important, it works!!!!! Stays right above set temp. Great!!!!

 

I wanted to reply to tell you thanks for the help and added knowledge for future repairs. It's great to be somewhat familiar now with the operation. I never knew that the igniter was in series with the coil in the gas valve unit. It really make sense and I can measure the current next time. I also ordered a spare to keep on hand for the next 8 year repair. Well, I'm off and you can reply if you want. I will use you next time if you are still here. Our furnace is having a similar problem of the glow and it tries to light and then goes out. It does it a few times and then finally lights. Well, when that goes out, I'll look you up for a new session of course and I can get familiar with the furnace.

Chow for now, have a good week!!!! Bye... Jamie

Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.
Great, I am glad everything is working now, thanks for letting me know, have a safe 4th of July.

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