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Bryan
Bryan, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 12004
Experience:  15 yrs. experience as a certified appliance technician.
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replaced defroster thermostat. unit was cooling prior to replacement.

Customer Question

replaced defroster thermostat. unit was cooling prior to replacement. not cooling now. is there a reset switch somewhere.
Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Bryan replied 2 years ago.

Hello, Thank you for using this service, I will be helping you with your problem today

can you get me the full model number ?

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
ge side by side 23 cu ft moder # XXXXX
Expert:  Bryan replied 2 years ago.
this is in a defrost cycle now. how long have you had it plugged back in ?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
15 hours
Expert:  Bryan replied 2 years ago.
okay, is there no fan or anything running ? or are the fans running but its just not cooling ?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
the fans are running but the compressor will not kick on. what can cause the compressor to fail to starty?
Expert:  Bryan replied 2 years ago.

If the fans are running its not stuck in defrost. do you hear any clicking or buzzing comming from the compressor about every 3-5 minutes ?

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
yes. it will click on then off immediately
Expert:  Bryan replied 2 years ago.
alright now we are getting somewhere, when you changed the defrost thermostat were the coils completely clogged with frost and if so were all the coils frosted? is that why you needed to change the defrost thermostat?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
no. the thermostst was stuck on and had defrosted and continued to heat until every thing was thawed. I estimate this was going on for 24 maybe 48 hours before I discovered it. Water was running out of the bottom but the temperature of the refrigerator was around 38 degrees.
Expert:  Bryan replied 2 years ago.
okay , Well the thermostat wouldn't make this stay in defrost for 24 hours, actually the defrost timer is what controls the defrost cycle, the thermostat only controls the heater and is suppose to shut the heater off once it reaches 50-55 degrees. the timer however is like a clock and keeps turning and the defrost cycle should cut off after about 1/2 hour so even if the thermostat stuck the timer would take this out of defrost automatically . what I suspect at this time is the compressor start relay has failed. thats the clicking you hear. you will need to order and replace this. you can order this at the following link. http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Start-Relay/WR7X138/305808?modelNumber=TFF19DRC its plugged onto the side of the compressor.
Bryan, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 12004
Experience: 15 yrs. experience as a certified appliance technician.
Bryan and 3 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
can you tell me where this relay is located. Is it nearby the compressor?
Expert:  Bryan replied 2 years ago.
the relay is on the side of the compressor. theres usually a black cover over it. remove the cover and you will see the relay. it just plugs onto the compressor.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
ok, it took some time for me to get the compressor relay. I just installed it and the compressor did not start. Previously, I told you I could hear a click but at that time I could not see the compressor. What was clicking on and off was the coolant fan beside the compressor. It is doing this now about every minute turns on for 3 seconds goes off. The compressor never kicks on. The fans inside are running contiously. Is there some sort of reset botton or switch controlling the Compressor?
Expert:  Bryan replied 2 years ago.
no unfortunately theres no reset. do you have a volt meter you can check power to the compressor with ?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Yes
Expert:  Bryan replied 2 years ago.
okay great ! test the wires at the compressor and see if your getting 120 volts, if you are and the compressor wont start the compressor has failed. thats a job that would need to be done by an HVAC tech and is very expensive, you may want to weigh your options at that point.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
O'K, I will check the power to the compressor. Do I( take the cover off the relay or disconnect the wiring harness beside the compressor. I tries to see where these wires went behind the compressor but cannot see where they connect. Do they go to the relay?
Expert:  Bryan replied 2 years ago.
you can check the power right at the relay on the side of the compressor,
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Alright, I checked for current at the relay. There is non; however, the small round quarter sized module above the relay has power. I checked resistance of my old relay and the new "old" relay purchased from Ebay for $10.00 both show continuity from pole to pole. Why would there be no power coming to the relay?
Expert:  Bryan replied 2 years ago.
okay that is the overload for the relay and compressor, if that was bad there would be no power going to the relay. its pretty rare that these go but being so old its definitely possible.

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there is one still available @ http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Overload/WR8X99/309725 its $48.00
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
O'K, as I mentioned before, I checked this OVERLOAD item with my meter and found it had continuity so would it still be bad. I hate to spend more money especially $50.00 for this item. It is fast approaching the price of another used refrig. This one is a backup unit we put in the basement. Also, I am looking at another week or two down-time. Are you sure this would fix the problem?
Expert:  Bryan replied 2 years ago.
oh I'm sorry i thought I read it had no continuity. if it has continuity its good. okay so you don't get 120 volts to the relay though so thats the issue . sorry this thread is getting so long I have to keep going back and re reading it, you mentioned the fan trying to kick on every 3 minutes or so then shuts off ?well the fan starts when the compressor starts so thats when the relay would get 120 volts did you wait for that moment to see if 120 comes through then ?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
No! I will plug it up and wait for the fan to start. I will have the meter connected to the relay so as to catch it immediately. Remember, my origional relay had continuity also. Be assured, I make certain that the wiring is fully connected each time. Wish me luck.
Expert:  Bryan replied 2 years ago.
okay good luck, I'm still here to help .
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Well, I did as you asked. When the fan kicked on the meter read 107 watts but the compressor did not firem up but immediately the fan cut off. There you have it. So, we are to conclude that the offending component has to be the overload module. I checked locally earlier today and can have it in a week. They called it a "GUARDETTE". Their cost to me is $49.95. I will order the damn thing Monday. Thanks. Talk with you later. I'm sorry this issue is running on so long.
Expert:  Bryan replied 2 years ago.

well to be honest I'm not convinced its the overload causing that issue. you see the fan runs through the compressor relay and when the compressor is supposed to start the fan comes on with it. I hope its not your compressor thats failed, if the compressor fails it will try to start but draws to many amps and kicks the overload off so you don't overheat and have a fire, its a safety. it could be the compressor has failed is what I'm trying to say. you can try the overload but I cant promise that will work. I wish I could be 100% sure. but I cant and the only way to tell is try it. sorry.

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
To determine for certain that the compressor is bad, what say I straight-wire current tino the compressor. I can do this and bypass these modules. I would just touch the wires with a probe and release if the compressor fails to kick on. What do you say?
Expert:  Bryan replied 2 years ago.

No thats a bad idea. you could bypass just the overload but not the rest. you'll fry the compressor. and if you bypass the overload only do that for a few seconds to see if it starts. the compressor has start windings and run windings in it , if you try to put direct current you will fry it. the overload is one the neutral side

.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Alright, I will try it. I just want to see if the compressor will turn over. I will put the aligator clamps on the relay wire connectors, right? I will plug the power in and if the compressor starts for only 1/2 second i will disconnect thew power. Now, if it does start every so briefly then the overload is the problem. correct?
Expert:  Bryan replied 2 years ago.
I would think so. after that the only thing you can do is replace the overload and see what it does, there is one last resort, you could use a 3 in one hard start kit . this has a run capacitor built in. click this link. http://www.azpartsmaster.com/Products/SUPCO-RC0410-Refrigerator-Compressor-Hard-Start-Kit__B95530.aspx this replaces all the start parts on your compressor. relay,and overload, this however is a last resort and should only be used if all else fails. if that doesn't work the compressor is shot.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
O'K, Bryan. Done. I'll report back asap. We are having severe thunderstorms here so I am dodging them by keeping my computer and other compressor items protected against surges. Earlier in a 10 minute span we had 5 off and on power blinks. Not good. Later!!!!
Expert:  Bryan replied 2 years ago.
okay

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