My GW712 Excellence machine has stopped mid cycle, two green LEDS and the spin red LED are illuminated and the beeper is going off. I don't have my manual either.
Brand: Fisher & Paykel
Type of Appliance: Washer
Turned power off and on, a few times. Emptied the load and tried to reboot power again. No joy.
Hello and thank you for using this service. Can you tell me from right to left which ones are lit. Start at the furthest right one and tell me 1, 3, 6 like that
1,5 & 6. Spin RED Led and then two green LEDS.
Ok if you are seeing thisOOXXOOOX Then that is a 49 code meaning the Hot and or cold water valve is faulty. Check the harness to the valves and then use a ohm meter to check the resistance on each valve. For 24volt valves it should be about 64ohms. If you have the 12volt valves they are 19ohms. I believe yours should have the 24volt ones. If one is bad replace it. To get at them just remove the two back corner screws off the console and lift it towards you. Unplug the valves when testing for resistance.Appliance Guru41053.3606955208
I'm not an electrician, so how else can I check to see if it's what you say it is?
You need a meter. If that code is coming up as I showed you, there is no other way to know. You can replace both valves if you want, but I would test them first. There is just no way to look at them to see if they are good or not. This is a common issue though, but it is anyones guess at which one is bad.
OK, I'll have to get an electrician to check it out for me.
OK, electrician has checked the two solenoids. Both read 60.4 ohms. Any other suggestions please.
Relist: Incomplete answer.
They should both be reading 64.0 OHMS,,, The fault code says it is the cold valve, so for $40 , I would change it and see how you go..The machine in question (GW711) is known to have this problem after all these years of service. Many times even after replacing the valve, it turns out to be the motor control module that is stuffed, and not the valve itself*Seen it many times,,,in which case, unless you really love the machine, It isnt worth spending the $250 for a new brain* plus labor, so try the cold valve and see how you go and make a decision from there,,Here is the fault code procedure for the problem mentioned*48. (00110000) Phase 2 to 6 - Hot and Cold Valve FaultyThe Motor Controller module has measured voltages from the valve diagnosticcircuit that indicate both the hot and cold valves are faulty. The most likely cause isthat the valve harnesses have not been connected correctly or the valve is opencircuit.Primary Source: Wiring.Action:Check the valve harnesses are correctly fastened to the valves or the pins are notbent backwards.Secondary Source: Water Valves.Action:Check the valve coils are not faulty (open circuit). (64OHMS)Tertiary Source: Motor Controller module.Action: Replace the Motor Controller module.49. (00110001) Phase 2 to 6 - Cold Valve FaultyThe Motor Controller module has measured a voltage from the valve diagnosticcircuit that indicates the cold valve is faulty. The most likely cause is that the valveharness has not been connected correctly or the valve is open circuit. See fault 48for service procedure.
Appliance Tech with 12 years experience in the Industry.
Have just purchased both valves for $104.00, installed them, turned machine on and still the same problem. Had them metered and they both read only 62 ohms.
The machine in question (GW711) is known to have this problem after all these years of service. Many times even after replacing the valve, it turns out to be the motor control module that is stuffed, and not the valve itself*The brain is stuffed** The old valves are probably still okay as well*