I have a GE Monogram ZIS420D. The freezer dropped yesterday to 65 degrees and is now totally off. Now the fridge part is dropping fast. The controls are all up top and I don't see anything off. The fan still runs. There is no ice forming on the coils....any advice?
Type of Appliance: Refrigerator
Hi, thanks for using JustAnswer.com. Please remember, I do not get paid for my time and expertise until you accept. The fan in the freezer is still running? Have you heard any clicking or buzzing coming from above the Refrigerator where the compressor and controls are?Kelly
Yes fan is running. And yes, there was a clicking. Not now but it isn't cooling anymore either.
Okay, you will need to open the top cover to access the compressor. Feel the compressor, is it hot or cold?
It is slightly cold. It is an Embraco compressor.
Okay, if the fan is running, the control is calling for cooling and if the compressor is cool, it is not getting power. That power comes from the large control board on the LH side, through the overload on the compressor. So, the overload or the board is faulty. Do you have a meter to test with? If not , you may wish to replace both. I will need the rest of the model number to get you accurate parts information.Kelly41036.6100005787
I dont have a meter. And I think the serial number is XXXXX
I will need the entire model number,. The tag is up between the board and the compressor.
I dont see it. The board and the compressor are practically touching so it could be on the board but I cant get to it. Would it be the info on the Embraco compressor (513800059 or J06NLSEV)? The manual has these 2 numbers...ZIS420D OR 197D5968P004.
Just confirming, this board is what the black arrow is pointing to in this picture....http://screencast.com/t/UxmiZWWF
Number 703 is the board. The board has a VERY high failure rate! The parts are available below.Board Clicking the “ACCEPT” button will NOT close this question. Once you accept, you may refer back to this thread, AT NO ADDITIONAL CHARGE, until your problem is resolved! Also, please leave positive feedback after you accept, this is important!
I am glad I asked. I was totally looking at the wrong part. So just to confirm, you think this is the bad part...http://screencast.com/t/34JE6FAcH25It looks easy enough to switch out.
Yes, you will likely see a burnt spot on the back of that board.
I flipped the board around and did not see a burnt spot. The part is $125 but they do not allow returns on electrical parts. So are you pretty confident that it is it? Or should I look for it on a site that allows returns?
I am pretty confident, but you can verify it by measuring voltage to the compressor with a meter.
Highly accurate diagnostician with over 30 years experience!
Kelley - we got the board today and replaced it. However, it does not seem to be doing anything. Any other ideas?
It may not start for about 30 minutes upon initial power up. Is it cooling now?
No. And I switched the board out around 4 hours ago.
So the compressor is not running, correct?
Right. And the compressor is still room temperature to the touch. Only the fan is running behind it.
You will need a meter for a certain diagnosis, but if the compressor is not running and the board has been replaced, you may have a faulty overload. The overload is available at the link below. If you have a meter to test voltage, we can measure voltages and get a more certain diagnosis.Overload Assembly
I am going to grab a voltage meter. How do I use it on the board as well as the overload assembly?
If you test the voltage between ground and the wire leading to the overload on the compressor, that will point us in the right direction to look. You should have 120 VAC between those two points.
what does the overload look like? And what color is the wire I need to test?
The overload is number 714 and will have one wire going to it. It looks like the picture below.Kelly41050.92470625
I cant really tell where that thing is. Is this it? http://screencast.com/t/792mJhTSjfLF
Oh, you have a VCC unit. Test for 120 VAC between the orange & brown wires at the board mounted at the compressor.
Just to clarify - place the postive terminal on the voltage meter on orange and the black on brown and it should read 120 VAC? And please confirm this is the right spot. http://screencast.com/t/VCZRLx51dynU
Correct, that is the input voltage to the compressor inverter. It should read 120 VAC with the refrigerator in the run position.
OK - I used a voltage meter and there is power to the orange and brown wires. 121.6 vac
Okay, since there is power to the inverter board but the compressor is not warm at all, the inverter is not likely sending power to the compressor. Remove the inverter from the compressor to expose the three pins coming off the compressor. With the refrig unplugged, measure the resistance between each of the plugs. You should read about 6.4 ohms of resistance.
To confirm, I am not measuring the resistance on the 3 pins coming off the compressor but the plug that goes on to the 3 pins, right? Also do I place the postive terminal on each of the 3 plugs and the negative on something metal?
There are 3 metal pins ON THE COMPRESSOR. Measure resistance between each of them. Each one to another should read about 6.4 ohms. Put your meter probes to each of the pins.
So I put the black meter probe on one pin coming off the compressor and the red on another - and tried multiple variations - and I dont get a reading at all. I have the fridge turned off and my voltage meter is set to measure resistance.
If you have the meter set to read resistance that low, you have a faulty compressor, specifically that the windings are open. What settings are on the meter? Are you sure you have it set to read less than 10 ohms?
The instructions with the meter say to set the dial to 200K OHM and then it will measure resistance. There are other settings like 20K, 2K, 200. Please advise.Also what does "the windings are open" mean?
Set the meter to the 200 setting and measure again and see what you read.
OK - that worked. It bounced all around 6.7. But I tried different combinations and they all had a reading.
Okay, so that means the compressor is PROBABLY good. Since you have power going to the inverter and the compressor windings test good, the inverter board is likely faulty. That board is available at the link below. The site I have linked you to offers a 100% return policy, even if installed, so you will not be out if the new board does not work, you can return it!Inverter Board
OK - I will order. On the board I ordered earlier, how can I use a voltage meter to see if my old board is still good?
Hook it back up and see if you have 120 VAC to the inverter still. If you do, the old board is likely okay.
Ok - I hooked the old board back up and the inverter showed 120 VAC. So the old board is good. I ordered the new part tonight and I will let you know how it goes. Thanks!
Okay, keep me posted!
I received the part today and the fridge works!! However, the compressor now feels really hot though. In fact, it is too hot to touch. Is that common? Or is it that it is just running really hard to initially cool the fridge and wont normally stay that hot? I cant imagine that it is that hot all the time. I would think it would melt the plastic case the board came in...
The compressor will be hot, especially right after starting from being off. There is a fan up there that is designed to keep air running across it and the condenser coil, is it running?Kelly41055.6488217593
Yes it is. So I guess I am good. Thank you so much.
Excellent, nice work! Please let me know if have any other appliance troubles! Happy Memorial Day!
Out of curiosity, how much would a service tech have charged to come out and fix the fridge? The part alone was $300.
A service call on a premium line product like this is usually around $150-200, the board retails at $404.