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Robert
Robert, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 1601
Experience:  16+ years of in home appliance repair knowledge.
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Front load frigidaire GLTF1040AS0. Washes and drains but high

Resolved Question:

Front load frigidaire GLTF1040AS0. Washes and drains but high spin spin doesn't engage. Washers continues at slow spin but doesn't ramp up. Dependent on load. Empty it spins high speed, more than a paid of jeans and a heavy shirt and it won't ramp up. Does the machine monitor the power load or speed before going to full high speed.
Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Robert replied 2 years ago.

Robert :

Hello.

Robert :

It sounds like the control board on the washer is about to fail. It does measure the resistance on the motor and regulates accordingly.

Robert :

It is highly likely that the board has lost the ability to spin the unit up due to the relay being bad.

Customer :

How do I test board?

Robert :

No real test for the board. You can try resetting it by unplugged the washer for about 10 minutes and then plugging it back in. Test the spin again and see if it works.

Customer :

With the three speeds being fed to the motor can I determine if the board is sending high spped by a wire colour?

Robert :

Remove the back cover over the belt area on the back of the washer. This will reveal the motor and the connections. Check all of them and make sure they are secure. Inspect them for breaks, burns or corrosion. On the inside of the panel OR in a baggy on the inside(sides, front panel) there should be a tech manual to help you with some testing options and a wiring diagram. Most people are not that handy but you seem to have the knowledge to track the issue down and enter any diagnostics for this unit.

Robert :

Diagnostic Test:
The diagnostic test is performed by using the Program Knob.
To START THE TEST:
• On digital display models, turn the Program Knob to start position, Touch Up.
(NOTE: If the model has a timer dial that can be rotated 360°, turn the Program Knob to start position, Drain/Spin.
• Press Pause Cancel to turn off LEDs.
• Within 5 seconds, press and hold the Option and Pause Cancel buttons until LEDs start sequentially chasing, then release buttons.
1. All the LEDs will sequentially light. Pressing a button below a light cluster will light all the LEDs in that cluster at one time to confirm functionality.
2. Turn the program knob (1) click clockwise from the start position. The hot water solenoid will activate and hot water should enter through the detergent compartment.
3. Turn the program knob (2) clicks from the start position. The bleach water solenoid will activate and cold water should enter through the bleach compartment.
4. Turn the program knob (3) clicks from the start position. The bleach and the wash water solenoids will activate and cold water should enter through the softener compartment.
5. Turn the program knob (4) clicks from the start position. The door lock solenoid will activate.
6. Turn the program knob (5) clicks from the start position. The door lock solenoid will deactivate and the loading door can be opened.
7. Turn the program knob (6) clicks from the start position. The washer will fill and tumble.
8. Turn the program knob (7) clicks from the start position. The washer will fill and spin (leakage test).
9. Turn the program knob (8) clicks from the start position. The drain pump and door lock solenoid will activate and the
washer will operate in high spin. SAFETY WARNING: If power is removed during this test, the door can be opened.
To prevent injury, DO NOT put your hands inside when the tub is rotating.
10. Turn the program knob (9) clicks from the start position. The control will signal the last error code.

Exiting Diagnostic Mode
There are two options for exiting the Diagnostic Test mode and returning the washer to normal operation:
a ) Unplug the power cord, wait 5-8 seconds, then reconnect the power cord OR
b ) Turn the program knob clockwise 2 or 3 clicks after the Start Position. Press Options and Pause Cancel buttons together for a few seconds until wash cycle LEDs appear.
If a situation arises where you cannot exit the Diagnostic mode as described above and the bank of 5 LED’s on the right end remain ON regardless of Program Knob position, a combination of pushed buttons may have caused the control to enter a special factory test mode. Disconnect power to reset the control to return washer to normal operation is this occurs.

Robert :

That is the diagnostics for your unit.

Customer :

Do you know whether the board you talk about has different coloured wires for the power being sent to the motor in order to control the speed or is the amperage controlled? What controls the speed of the motor amperage or cycles?

Customer :

There's no digital displays on our model.

Robert :

Sorry. I copied the wrong one. Bear with me a second.

Robert :

Here is a link for you so I don't have to repost the info for you. It will make it easier for you to use and save also.

Robert :

It also includes a wiring diagram so that you can check the wiring colors for your unit.

Robert :

Does that look like it will help you better?

Customer :

Drawing indicates a tachometer, at C7.3. Is the stepping of the motor controlled by the tacho feedback?

Customer :

being connectors M1 , M2 , M3

Robert :

Sorry. I was with another customer. Let me look at this for a minute.

Robert :

The tach is measuring the voltage and relaying the readings back to the control. The control makes the decision and sends the signal back to the tach which sends the signal to the motor to increase/decrease speed.

Robert :

The actual speed/resistance is determined by the hall sensor in the motor itself.

Robert :

That means any issue with the tach would be a motor replacement on this unit.

Robert :

I would run the diagnostics on the unit first and see what comes up.

Robert :

This will make the process alot faster for you.

Customer :

This is getting a bit deep for an accountant to follow. I think I'm going to refer your drawing and comments over to my son who is much better at electrical than me. Do you know how I can print our conversation and I'll send it to him along with ther pdf.

Robert :

I know you can copy and paste the conversation over to Word or your notepad and then print it. The link I gave you can also be printed out for use.

Customer :

The diangnostics requires LED lights and there aren't any. Only LED on the full control panel is one for door lock. Thus the question if you had the right pdf for this model.

Robert :

The light will flash a certain amount of times for the first number of the code and then a certain amount of times for the last number of the code.

Robert :

You can use those to decipher the code problem at that point using the list provided.

Customer :

You mean the single door lock LED?

Customer :

In the

Good Models line, the control signals the failure code by flashing the five indicator lights of

Door Lock, Wash, Rinse,

Final Spin and Control

for the first number or letter after the E and the Start

indicator light for the second number or letter

after the E. When a failure occurs, the washer stops or pauses and the control beeps and flashes the five indicator lights to tell

the customer that a failure has occurred. To stop the flashing and beeping, the customer may touch the

Pause Cancel

button.

Robert :

That and the beeping noises of the unit. I will triple check the unit again just to be sure for you.

Customer :

THIS REQUIRES 5 leds

Customer :

ACCORDING TO TEST COPIED ABOVE..

Robert :

I am pulling all manuals again to check yours out. If yours has an AC motor on it then that may be the issue. Bear with me a minute.

Customer :

Model GLTF1040AS0 Serial XC23712618

Robert :

I see the issue now. The site I put your model number up on switched me over to the higher unit. Yours has a mechanical timer. I don't think they have a diagnostics on this one but I am checking now.

Robert :

Yours is older. I have to scan and upload the test page for you. Will that be okay? It will take a few more minutes.

Customer :

ok

Robert :

I found one on repairclinic.com that is already up. Makes the process faster. It is from an older diagnostics manual so it is very vague and hard to understand if you are not well versed with a voltmeter.

Robert :

Look at that and let me know if that looks more like your units motor assy.

Customer :

Don't know until I go back to unit and pull rear cover. Looks like test 6 will indicate controller condition. Other websites put price around $150 for controller. I'm thinking it's time to take a trip to the recycler.

Robert :

That is about right for the cost. Depending on the age of the unit, I think you may be right.

Customer :

Okay. Thanks and I'll try that test another night

Robert :

No problem. The date coding on your unit puts it at October of 2002. Does that sound about right?

Customer :

yes

Robert :

They rate that unit for 11 years on the life span so it may be on its last legs.

Robert :

Is there anything else I can help you with tonight!

Customer :

Not now thanks again

Robert :

No problem. Just let me know if there is anything else you need in the future. I apologize again for the confusion earlier. The service site kept changing your unit to the GLTF2940. I swithced sites to get the other info. It may of been due to the age of the unit.

Robert :

Have a great night.

Robert, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 1601
Experience: 16+ years of in home appliance repair knowledge.
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