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Tim Alan
Tim Alan, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 1250
Experience:  Amana, A&E (Whirlpool) ,and Maytag factory service
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I have a Whirlpool refrigerator (Model #EL87TRRRV02. The unit

Customer Question

I have a Whirlpool refrigerator (Model #EL87TRRRV02. The unit stopped producing cold air 2 days ago. The compressor operates as well as the condenser fan. I purchased an Ultimate series 3 in 1 relay- start capacitor- overload to assist the compressor, but when I look at the wiring diagram of the refrigerator, I cannot find the run capacitor that's shown on the diagram. The 3 in 1 unit can work with or without a capacitor. My question is this,should I hook up the 3 leads directly to the compresor and the 2 line leads to the incoming power? The 3 leads that leave the compressor appear to land at a mullox plug connection.
Submitted: 2 years ago via ApplianceRepair.Net.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.

Tim Alan :

Hi my name isXXXXX can help you with your issue.

Tim Alan :

The way to wire that is the 2 power leads that went to the compressor on the original relay get tied into the power leads on the 3 in 1 and then hook up the compressor directly with the other leads.

Tim Alan :

Your unit may not have had a capacitor on it.

Tim Alan :

If it had a capacitor then there would have been a wire going and coming from it attached to the old relay.

Tim Alan, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 1250
Experience: Amana, A&E (Whirlpool) ,and Maytag factory service
Tim Alan and 3 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.
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Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.
When you wire it the hot wire was the wire going to the overload typically the terminal that is in the middle/bottom, the common would have gone to the run and the wire that goes to the start would come from the capacitor.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Tim, here's the layout off the compressor. The top lead (red) that I believe connects to the overload on the compressor and runs to the mullox plug that the incoming power also hooks to. The bottom right leads (double pigtail white) I believe hooks to the start relay of the compressor and one lead runs to the same mullox plug while the other one runs to the control. The bottom left lead (white) also from what I beieve to be the start relay on the compressor also runs to the control on another terminal. Should I cut the incoming power line prior to the mullox plug and wire nut to the 3 in 1 line voltage legs? Also, would the top terminal represent the common; the bottom right represent run and the bottom left represent start? The wiring diagram on the refrigerator leaves a lot to be desired. Thank you.
Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.
Yes you have the terminals correct, let me see if i can find a wiring diagram just to be safe but it sounds like you have it correct. I wouldn't cut any wires prior to the molex plug. All you should have to do is cut the double connector and hook that up to your relay and the red hot wire do the same and then hook up your other connectors to the compressor, those wires going in and out of the control must be for the capacitor.
Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.
Whirlpool doesn't even have a diagram listed for that model number on their service website. Can you take a picture of it?
Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.
On those 3 in 1 relays all you need is the hot wire that went to the common and a neutral wire which should be white, those other 2 may not even be needed but that depends on where they went to. On some units the common could be piggy backed and go to the condenser fan motor or the hot or both. It sounds like all that they hook up to is a capacitor. That is how a capacitor is wired, the common from the run powers the capacitor and feeds the start winding.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I am waiting for the pictures to download. Can I e-mail them to you directly?
Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.
You can attach them and send them to me click on the paper clip icon and you can upload the file that way.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
How about if I bypass the control (capacitor) altogether? I could run red lead from the 3 in 1 to the piggyback spade connection on the run (bottom right side) of the compressor with the existing white lead returning to the mullex plug; run the white lead of the 3 in 1 to the start (bottom left side) of the compressor; run the black lead of the 3 in 1 to the common (top side) of the commpressor and abandon the existing red lead that hooked there from the mullex plug. Finally, I could wire nut the power leads (also black) from the 3 in 1 to the incoming power leads prior to the mullex plug. Does this sound feasible?
Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.
No your compressor would run constantly you would bypass the controls if you did that.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

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Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.
All you have to do is cut the red connector and that is your hot wire and also the common terminal on the compressor that gets hooked up to one of the power leads to the 3 in 1 and the white is the common which is your other power leg for the 3 in 1 and that is also your run winding or terminal on the compressor the other terminal would be the start.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
So, if I am hearing you correctly, I hook up (wire nut) one power lead (off the 3 in 1) to the red (common) at the compressor and run white lead (off the 3 in 1) to the run (bottom right) at the compressor where we have the piggy back spade connection. This leaves one power wire, one red wire, and one black wire left diconnected from the 3 in 1. Do I not hook up to the start side of the compreesor (bottom left)?

FYI- the wires coming off the 3 in 1 show black (spade) to common; white (spade) to start; red (spade) to run; and 2 black leads (bare) to incoming power. I'm sorry to be full of questions, but I want to make sure I get this right. Please advise.
Thank you.
Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.
I really don't know were the confusion is. Pull of the relay and overload and hook up the 3 wires from the 3 in 1 that have the little connectors on it and then cut and splice your power lines to the other 2 wires. According to the pie you sent there is a white and red wire those are your power wires.Those go to the power wires on your 3 in 1 the other wires get hooked to the compressor and they should be labeled common, start and run.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
OK. I got it. That makes sense. Thank you.
Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.
I want you to hook it up right also all 3 connections need to be made to the compressor for it to run so yes the start needs to be hooked up also. Your welcome have a great weekend.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Thank you. You were extremely helpful. It appears to be operating correctly, although I'll have to wait for the temperature drop.
Expert:  Tim Alan replied 2 years ago.
Ok great thanks for letting me know it could take as much as 6 hours to fully cool down to temperature.

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