Unfortunately, your assessment of my lid sensor was incorrect. I initially felt this way if you view my detailed description of this buzzing noise. I bought the part, replaced it and it did nothing. I have the same issue. I would like to know how this can be solved. I am not happy as I paid $30 for this diagnosis and about the same for the lid switch. If it helps, I took a video of the issue so that you can hear the buzzing noise.
I see that yoiu have relisted your question .
I will try to assist you .
The issue of the unit filling then stops ,
If you advance the timer will the unit then spin??
Please check out this video I took today. You can hear the buzzing sound that I describe. Typically, after the cycle doesn't start, I fiddle with the knob that sets the cycle by either turning it on and off a few times or turning it off, spinning it around 360 degrees and then turning it on again. I am not 100% sure if the unit will spin if I advance the timer. I didn't try that today (and I can't try it again very quickly as this is a unit that is in a rental property).
I can try that tonight or tomorrow. Unfortunately, this appliance is at a rental property. What does "pull the know out" mean? Do you mean knob? I just wanted to make sure. I will respond and let you know what I find as soon as I can do this. Thanks
Ok, so I tried what you said, but I can't figure out what's going on.
I tried three times and 2 out of the three times, it didn't start. The first time, I wiggled the wire harness connector and it started. I didn't push the knob in and pull it out like usual. The 2nd time, it started by itself. The 3rd time, I had already put the parts back together and I did the usual push in and pull out for it to start.
I inspected the w/h connector and didn't see anything loose or damaged.
I suspect that it might be something internal in the unit. Why would pushing it in and pulling it out make it start? Does that action complete a circuit long enough for the signal to go through to start the cycle? I'm not really familiar with any of the internals to know what might be the problem, but it seems like an annoying electrical issue that is not worth $100 for a new part to solve.
Any ideas for a cheaper fix?
Attachments are only available to registered users.