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what machine is this? ref? washer?
i am assuming this is for a ref. in an rv, correct?
side by side ref in motorhome
did you mean nda1402 for the model number?
i dont see a nea1402
this is a wide by side ref? correct? it has a wider bottom in freezer and wider ref on top, correct?
will check model #
ok. just let me know, i will be here
when did you purchase this machine? there is a product recall on some model side by side machines manufactured inbetween dates of
Dometic recently expanded its recall on a population of two-door refrigerators. The original recall included some two-door refrigerators manufactured between April 1997 and May 2003. The new recall focuses on models manufactured between June 2003 and September 2006.
was your machine purchased during this time frame?
here is a website that you can enter the model and serial numbers to find out if your machine is under recall.
i just checked and it doesnt seem like it is under recall
what is is doing?
it is nea 1402 confirmed. ices up & does not drain out on freezer side.
ok. i will check again.
do you see ice or frost on the rear wall of the frzr section?
if yes, then you are experiencing a defrost failure.
unplug the machine for at least 24 hours and then replug back in.
this will defrost and fix the machine for now. if the same problem happens agin then you are having a problem with your defrost system
if you have a multimeter we can check a few things now
you will have to access the evaproator in the rear of the frezzer portion of the ref
the error 13 is for a drain heater error. it is not heating causing the defrost failure and build up of ice
no need to check the system
just try the manual defrost for 24 hours then see if that fixes the problem. most times it will. sometimes the computer that controls the heater just skips a defrost cycle here and there and will get stuck in an off position and needs to be manually reset by unplugging.
if the manual reset doesnt work, then replace the heater.
i can get part info and where to order parts if need be
this has been going on for some time. fridge has been turned off several times. ice builds up where in the defrost cycle ice is supposed to melt & water drain out of tube to exterior of fridge .where is this heater located?
heater is located just near the drain pan that is freezing over. it is located behind the freezer wall on the inside. it is called the evaporator cover. just underneath the evaporator is the drain pan and heater.
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[IMAGE][SRC][/SRC][ALT][/ALT][WIDTH]100[/WIDTH][HEIGHT]100[/HEIGHT][STYLE][/STYLE][/IMAGE] Last week, I attended a course on the “New Generation” of Dometic refrigerators. The 3 models we looked at are the RM3762/3962, fairly conventional top/bottom 2 door models with new control circuitry, including constant LED readouts of the temperature in the fresh food cabinet, the RM1350, a large 4 door model, with cold water through the door, the same temperature readouts as the RM3762, a “tag line” (ignition switch) hookup which both locks out LP operation for refueling purposes, and activates an automatic door lock, and the most interesting model (at least to me
I thought it might be interesting to look “under the hood” to see how this model works….
[IMAGE][SRC][/SRC][ALT][/ALT][WIDTH]100[/WIDTH][HEIGHT]100[/HEIGHT][STYLE][/STYLE][/IMAGE] The NDA1402 is a side by side model, with a small twist in layout- as you can see, the freezer portion is somewhat larger than normal, which- added to the vacuum insulation (meaning thin walls with good insulation) gives a fairly large food storage volume.
But… the most interesting part- both from a use and service point of view- is the automatic defrost.
The first thing you have to do when you first start up this model is to set the clock… yes, this refrigerator has a clock. “Why ?” you may ask- pretty simple. The clock lets the refrigerator go in to defrost mode at 1 AM every day, when the doors are likely to be closed, and the refrigerator will have plenty of time to recover from the added heat of defrosting.
“Added heat?”…. Yes, this model has 4- 12 volt heaters in it to do the actual defrosting, and to keep the drain tubes unplugged.[IMAGE][SRC][/SRC][ALT][/ALT][WIDTH]100[/WIDTH][HEIGHT]100[/HEIGHT][STYLE][/STYLE][/IMAGE]
Here’s a picture of the fresh food heater, which is installed behind the cooling fins in the compartment. Notice there is also a fan to circulate air. There are defrost heaters and fans in both the freezer and fresh food compartments.
To control all of this, the unit uses 4 thermisters (temperature sensors)- 2 in the freezer, 2 in the fresh food compartment. 1 thermister in each is attached to the cooling coils, the other reads the air temperature.
In operation the defrost cycle starts at 1 A.M. First, the cooling unit is turned on for 1 hour to pull the temperature down (it will stop before freezing the fresh food, though).
Next, the unit is shut off for 10 minutes, to allow the cooling unit to “relax”, or equalize the pressures in the system.
The freezer heating element is energized next, along with the freezer drain tube heater. The defrost heater stays on until the freezer plate temperature reaches 41° (or 75 minutes, whichever is first). The fan in the freezer is shut off during this procedure (we just want to defrost the plate, not heat up the freezer), but the freezer fan is run for short periods to throw any water off of the blower.
After the freezer defrost cycle has completed, the cooling unit is started again, and the fresh food defrost actually takes place while the unit is cooling. Because of the slow recovery of absorbtion type refrigerators, the timing lets the cooling unit get a head start on recovery. The fresh food defrost cycle is until the fins reach 41°, or 20 minutes. The fan is also shut off for this cycle, and the drain tube heaters stay running for 30 minutes after the cycle is complete.
The defrost cycle can be started manually, and if it is started manually, and if the freezer door is held open, it goes in to the “drying” mode- which is used for storage. In the drying mode, both heaters are run for 3 hours. At the end of this cycle, the unit shuts completely off. This helps eliminate mold and rust from forming.
A couple more features this model has that I thought I would mention- it has temperature readouts for both the freezer and fresh food compartment, and it has ice and water through the door. The ice maker and ice and water dispenser are standard household models, and run on 120 volts, so while it will make ice running on LP gas, it will not eject or dispense ice unless 120 volt power is available- though the units now use 2 separate 120 volt cords, so the ice maker function can easily be run off an inverter.
It was interesting to me to see where the “state of the art” in RV refrigeration is headed, and it will be interesting to see if some of this technology gets in to the standard 2 door “top freezer” models
the above info was out of an article from the dometic website about the drain pan heaters.
you can go directly to the link at http://blog.rv.net/2008/04/tech-inside-a-dometic-nda1402/
you can research more info there if you like. or i can show you what to order and how to fix it