First look in the freezer at the rear inside wall, can you find a frosty spot anywhere on the lower rear wall? Any at all, there should be nothing but small icy drops.Check to see that the freezer fan is blowing steady air out of the vent in the freezer, is it?
Thank you. Look in the top at the wall somewhere is a small sticker with a model number. Please could you double check the model number in the fresh food side.In the top rear of the fresh food section there should be a vent. With the freezer door closed can you feel light air flow from that vent? Open the freezer door, do you feel air flow then?
Model GX5SHTXVYOO The kast digit looks like a "O" but tough to tell. No air movement with the freezer open or closed.
That's ok I can work out the zero's and the O's. Thank you.Give me a few minutes to look at the style of refrigerator you have and the parts that are in it.
In the top rear of the fresh food section near the rear of the ceiling is the assembly in the diagram below. The part that's arrowed blue snaps out, you need something thin to get it out with. Then you can remove the screws to get to the part that's arrowed red. Get to that part and see if the door that rotates open is closed and if its frozen or stuck closed. Take your time and let me know what you find.
Was able to remove the assembly and get to the door. The door is open almost all the way.
Wow and there is not any air flowing?There is an air return and if I remember correctly in the rear corners of the floor of the fresh food section under the drawers at the bottom, are those clear?
Its right there where the red arrow is drawn in the rear corner.
Great and they are clear? If so look very close at the rear inside wall of the freezer for a light coat of frost, make sure the fan is blowing air out of the vent in the freezer.If the wall is clear and the fan is blowing there is an ice blockage somewhere in the duct coming from the freezer to the fresh food section. Your only choice will be to unplug and defrost for 12 hours with the doors open to clear that duct. What can cause that problem is a door being left open just a crack for an hour will do it.That will take care of the problem. As far as I can tell and everything we have been over thats the only thing that can be wrong.Please ask if you have questions.
I understand, it happens and it happens mostly to models that have a bottom freezer. We went through the parts that control the airflow and airflow ducts the best that can be done. The damper was open indicating the temperature sensor knows its too warm, its just not getting the air from the freezer. I really believe that will take care of it.Thank you for the opportunity and Happy new year!
Your suggestion of defrosting the frig as it was probably blocking cold air from getting from the freezer was correct.
If someday you ever have time and if you visit facebook we are there. It would be nice to see a happy customer comment, we don't get enough of those. http://www.facebook.com/justanswerYou take care and thank you for the opportunity.
I have had an ongoing issue with the frig portion of my Whirlpool gold unit. The frig section goes warm every few days. The advice you gave me of thawing out the unit because the door may have been left open and therefore creating ice in the supply from the freezer was correct. The problem is, I don't believe I am constantly leaving the door open but I have to thaw the unit every few days. My question is, is there anything I can do to prevent the supply from fereezing and the frig not getting cold every few days? Humidity control, turning down the cold in the frig, turning up the cold in the frig, etc?
I don't know of any defrost part that would break and cause it every few days. And that would be the only other thing that would cause a blockage. The shortest amount of time would be 10 days for a broken defrost part. Is that happening right now? Today?
Ok thanks. That's enough time, and during that time there was no excess frost on the top of the freezer food or the ceiling of the freezer?Also take a look at the bottom of the freezer door, open it up and check the gasket on the bottom is that loose?
Yes the heat there is normal. I know you may have already done this, can you see any frost on the rear wall of the freezer, almost like textured paint again? I am a little slow I am getting a procedure ready for you to do if you see frost there.
That's the problem, its not defrosting. I need to find a document. Give me some time.
I understand. When you can see it on the outside its really thick behind that wall. Do you have an ohm meter?
Understood. Yes, I do. May need a little help using it.
There is a way to program in the forced defrost to see if it defrosts, the problem is I remember how to get you in it but I do not remember how to get you out of it and I have a ton of manuals for that style of refrigerator and so far I have not found the one with the correct control. If you would rather do it that way we can it could take me a few hours to find it, I would have to do that in the morning.Unplug the refrigerator. Look on that board and you should see one of the connectors or on the board labled J-1. Find the brown wire on that connector and set your meter to ohms. Put one probe on the brown wire and with the other probe rotate through the 2 power prongs on the cord you removed from the wall outlet skip the ground.You let me know which way, either way is fine with me.
I could wait untilo tomorrow as I would like to make sure I can shut off the defrost after getting into it. I could remove the piece as shown on your diagram tomorrow morning and start with the test.
Yes that would be a good idea, that really is a good test and its much better. You do not have to take it apart to do that test. Its all programming. I will find it and get it scanned for you.
Are you saying I don't need to remove the part as shown in your diagram to find the connector?
Nope when I find that sheet it will be all done by pushing buttons on the control, that will activate the defrost and will locate the area to go.
Good. Then I think I will hold off doing anything until I hear from you.
After finding the procedure I now know why I could not remember how to exit the defrost mode. You do not, its a timed cycle, you start it then it runs and after a period of time exits. Run the procedure below. Have the freezer door light switch taped shut so the light will stay off when you open that door. Once you have started wait about 5 minutes. In the freezer behind the rear inside freezer wall is a heater, after about 5 minutes you should occasionally hear the hiss and drip of water dripping on that heater. Do you hear that? You may have to try more than once. Click just below.CLICK HERE
I got into forced defrost mode fine. I have gone through a couple cycles since the unit turns back on every 10 minutes or so. No hissing or dripping sounds yet so I'll go through a few more cycles and see what happens.
Once the desired mode is displayed, confirm the forced defrost by pressing the Refrigerator down Key once. The defrost will begin immediately and the display will return to a normal operating display with set point values.
That sounds like the problem is in the freezer. Pictured below is the defrost heater arrowed red and the thermostat arrowed blue. You set your meter to ohms and read each one separately, the defrost thermostat must be frosty cold to test. Unplug the refrigerator before you start. Also before you start testing if you look you will see a main wire connector also behind that rear wall give that a tug to see if its loose, and as you get ready to test the heater and thermostat be sure to tug those wires first to see if they are loose. Look inside the wire connectors for ice, that is a clue to a poor connection. All of that is behind the rear inside wall in the freezer.
I cannot tell from the diagram how the freezer door comes off, there are so many different styles I just do not know which it is.If you have an ice maker in the freezer most always there are 2 1/4 inch screws at the top over it. Loosen those, sometimes there is one under the bottom. Remove that one. Lift the ice maker off. Follow the wiring harness back to the rear freezer wall. There may be a zip tie there holding the connector, cut it off and unlock the connector then pull. That will get the ice maker out.Holding the rear wall are screws that will need to be taken out. Then the wall can come out.Be sure that when you test the thermostat its frosted cold. A reading is good and no reading is bad at any ohm setting on your meter.The heater is the same, the only difference is that the heater does not have to be cold.
I cannot tell which you have, the diagrams are pretty sad. You would think this day and age there would be clear color pictures.
I've sent three photos of the trrack system for the pull out door and drawer. There doesn't seem to be any release to pull them out completely, like you would find in a kitchen drawer. Will be a pain to get to the back wall without getting these out. I know they come out but. . . . .
Click just below and download and watch that.CLICK HERE.
Ok great, I was hoping that was the right video, it looked like it was, and it was lucky too that was the only video of a bottom drawer removal that I have.
Looks like there are 2 of them right in the plastic part right where the plastic grille is. Probably made into it and all one piece.
Ohm the 2 parts in the diagram, one is attached to the top of the coils and the other runs along the bottom of the coils and the wires up the sides.
With the symptoms of the fridge and knowing what we know, is there some obvious parts that are causing the problem? If so, at this point I would not mind pursuing purchasing them online. I could resume with the tests you mentioned but was just thinking if it comes to 1 or two parts at this point, I would just buy them now.
There are 3 possible parts, the board, which I do not believe is the problem and if you have doubts you can make the ohm measurement above at the J-1 connector, brown wire to the power cord that plugs into the wall outlet to double check. I would expect you to get no reading. In that case one of the two parts in the freezer is bad. The heater or the thermostat.The heater in the freezer is 67002493 arrowed red below. ONLINE HEREThe defrost thermostat is W10165425 and arrowed blue. ONLINE HEREIf you get a reading then I would be mistaken and the board you made the measurement from will be bad.The part number for the control board is 12868513. ONLINE HERE.
That would be the thing to do, you can defrost your refrigerator again and it will cool as long as it did the last time. I was trying to help you save money and not mistakenly order and install a part you did not need. Its too easy in my opinion to jump and say you need this or you need that when if you have been in as many homes as I have you know better than to do that. And most times that type of problem really is caused by an open door. In any case I appreciated your patience and thank you for having the confidence to return. I will always do the very best I can to help you get to the bottom of the problem.
Give me instructions again on how to check the two parts regarding where and the probes and what to do specifically with the ohm meter. Thanks.
There are 2 ways, one is in the fresh food section the other is in the freezer at the bottom.Pictured below is the defrost heater arrowed red and the thermostat arrowed blue. You set your meter to ohms and read each one seperately, the defrost thermostat must be frosty cold to test. Unplug the refrigerator before you start. Also before you start testing if you look you will see a main wire connector also behind that rear wall give that a tug to see if its loose, and as you get ready to test the heater and thermostat be sure to tug those wires first to see if they are loose. Look inside the wire connectors for ice, that is a clue to a poor connection. All of that is behind the rear inside wall in the freezer.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Unplug the refrigerator. Look on that board and you should see one of the connectors or on the board labeled J-1. Find the brown wire on that connector and set your meter to ohms. Put one probe on the brown wire and with the other probe rotate through the 2 power prongs on the cord you removed from the wall outlet skip the ground.
I have ordered and received this morning the two parts you suggested I replace.
The heater in the freezer is 67002493 arrowed red below. ONLINE HEREThe defrost thermostat is W10165425 and arrowed blue. ONLINE HERE
The thermostat looks fairly straightforward in replacing two wire connections. The heater element looks a little more challenging. Looks like I will need to pull the coils and get behind them to place the new element in behind. Is this true? If so, can you get me started? Thanks.
The coils are sitting on plastic parts attached to the back of the freezer, you have to lift and then pull forward. Very carefully tilt the bottom of those coils toward you just enough to get that heater off the bottom. No more, you need to watch the lines coming through the rear wall , do not kink those. Just be gentle and if you get frustrated take a break. Its a tough position to be in anyway.
There is a hook kind of that the coils rest behind. Lift the coils over that hook. Its in the posts where the screws were I believe.
Thank you for the opportunity. Have a really nice weekend.