Hello and thanks for using JustAnswer!! My name is XXXXX XXXXX I am happy to help you with this dishwasher problem today!
Hello and thanks for using JustAnswer! My name is XXXXX XXXXX I am happy to help you with you dishwasher problem today!!
Does the description make sense?
Runs through all cycles, but no heat added by the machine
If you checked the 161 deg stat and it is closed, as well as the f6 hi-limit and the f5 hi-limit, but as you say the f5 hi-limit is open and assuming as you said, the element has continuity, the problem HAS to be a faulty f5 hi limit switch/thermostat. The only other possibility is a failure of the terminals at u6 in the timer control. You can verify that the the f5 hi-limit is in fact bad by temporarily jumping between the terminals on hi-limit stat f5 and trying again. The Hi limits will always be closed circuit until the temperature has reached 185 degrees. There is no other possible cause for you problem accordinf to the schemeatic.
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So jump the WH/VT and the Red wires and let it run?
The diagram does not specify the wire colors for this machine, but if those are the wires connecting to hi stat f5, then yes
I'll give that a shot
Great. let me know how it goes
You can also verify current flow through the circuit by connecting a voltmeter in parallel with the heater element, but this is NOT alltogether necessary
At least verify a circuit (voltage) across the load (element) not current flow, sorry :)
Jumping accross blows the circuit
you mean the breaker?
are you sure you jumped across the f5 hi limit and not the element?
yes. the high limit has one connection on one side and two on the opposite
the two together have continuity so I figured it didn't matter which of those I connected to
It does, because one of those connections is where the feed from the 161 degree comes in. hang on...
did you just jump across the two terminals that showed open circuit?
there is a wire that goes from f5 to the thermostat
there is continuity across the thermostat
there is continuity on f6.
just none on f5
makes little sense to me unless somehow f5 is grounded..??
f5 goes straight to neutral and if there were a ground fault, you would be having problems with other parts of the dishwasher, which you are not. correct?
maybe we should just replace f5 and see if that works. What I am not quite understanding is how I can go full cycle, tripping the appropriate sensors while not having water hot enough to clean the dishes. Does that key any other possible issue for you?
This is most likely a problem with the contacts in the timer. This area of ANY timer on a timer controlled appliance is the most current drawing contact on a timer. This happen with dryers as well. I am willing to bet that the timer contacts at u6 inside the timer have worn/burned away. This problem would require replacement of the timer. There is really nothing else in the circuit that would cause this based on your testing and the operating condition of the machine.
I've got a spare timer....maybe I'll try that
Yeas. Put that in and see what happens. I have been known to open timers just to see for myself, even though there is no repair possible. Thats just the kind of tech I am. LOL
I've got to run out to a meeting, but I'll check u6 and/or replace the timer to see if that will do it. But, I should have continuity across f5 though, right?
Yes. As long as the temp is below 185, f5 will always be open.
scared me for a sec
Sometimes I scare myself
thanks, XXXXX XXXXX get back to you as soon as I try these couple of things
ok. Ill be around. Take care friend
I know you are away, but I just found some old diagrams that show the color codes for the wires on this machine and in case you have not already figured this out, on stat f5, the red and wht/vt terminals should be closed circuit at all times until 185 degrees is sensed. Also, contacts u6 inside the timer correspond to the gray/blk wires coming from the timer.The terminals SHOULD be labeled 6a and 6b (both gray/blk) . To check the entire heater circuit, connect an ohmeter to that wire when disconnected to neutral and you should get a reading in the low ohms. This means the entire heater circuit is ok and the problem MUST be in the timer, likely at contacts u6. One other way to check u6 in the timer is to connect ohmeter to terminal 6a or b (where grey/blk wire was) when the timer is in a DRY cycle and L1 (power HOT) into the timer. Obviously, this is ALL done with power disconnected LOL. One more problem with these if I remember correctly was that sometimes the wiring located in the protective sheath behind the door panel near the bottom of the machine would become exposed and short to ground, but that was usually a whole machine problem, not specific functions but anything is possible.
Bless you, Eric! I've got heat!