Appliance Repair Questions? Ask a Technician for Answers ASAP
It sounds like the mechanism in the switch has broken and the switch will have to be replaced.
This happens when the spring inside wears out completely and lets go.
The alignment goes and the shaft won't turn.
It is pricey but I found one here for less than 70 dollars:
Is that something the landlord would if you did it.
If the switch needs to be replaced, then it needs to be replaced. However, how do you open up the stove top to get at the switch?
Are you there?
Have you gone????
I am here.
I was looking at the breakdown due to the age to see what installation would look like.
Thanks. A schematic and / or step-by-step instructions on opening up the oven would be great.
I am going to post what I am getting and hope that helps you. It looks like you can remove the knobs and then the facia to get to the controls. The wiring and the temp probe will have to be fed through the same hole the other one is in but you have to pull the old one out first. I would use that as an example of how to install the new temp probe. Just don't kink that capillary tube because the unit won't work right if it is fully kinked.
The schematics are all old and hard to read.
I hope that helps out.
Did you get to see the pics.
Thanks for all the diagrams but I'm assuming I don't have to take apart the whole stove. Would you say that the 1st diagram is the one that concerns me? If so, do you know what the numbers mean? In other words, what is 20 and 29? I assume 12 is the control I have to replace. Where does the temp probe go? How do I remove the Facia? Is 20 the faceplate over the hole you were talking about, passing the control out?
Is it held on by screwsw
You don't have to take the whole stove apart. The 1st one is the one to use. 12 is the control you will be replacing. The numbers on the grid are references for parts orders. The temp probe will go through a hole in the cavity of the oven. You will be able to get a general idea where it goes through by looking in the oven and tracing the probe into the cabinet. The Facia will be held on by screws. 20 is the analog clock and 40 is the facia.
Worst case scenario you will have to remove the burners and the top to get to it. That is why I included the pictures.
Really hard to give you accurate info due to the pics and the age.
Is 40 attached to 49? Is it attached with 2 screws, one at each end? What's 50 and 51? I assume there's just enough space between 40 & 49 to keep the control 12 from falling out.
49 is the very back of the range. Ignore the top part of that breakdown. Everything above the control is useless for what you are doing.
The control is held on behind the facia when you take it off. Should be two screws in it.
Okay, I'm beginning to get the picture. After removing all the burners, etc, do I remove the 23 bolts on each of the burners? Then how do I lift up the top? I guess that's number 16. Is Facia number 40? Does that come off?
Yes. Otherwise you could mess up the gas lines and be in bigger trouble.
Working on the unit is alot easier than the pictures make it out to be.
The pics make the job intimidating.
After removing 4 number 23 bolts, does the top hinge up from the back? I'm assuming the Facia doesn't come off and that's why we have to lift up the top?
It doesn't appear to be hinged. Looks like it should lift straight off.
Do you recommend sticking a couple of screw drivers or pry bars under the top (after clearing everything on top) and lifting up the top? Then I should have access to the control (12) and easily replace it?
I don't recommend that. The top will be ready to come off when it is loose. It weighs about 4 - 6 lbs so lifting it off will be very easy when the proper screws are removed.
Earlier you said that I should remove the knobs and the facia and I should be able to get to the controls. Did we determine that the facia was easy to get off? If so, why are removing the top? I didn't understand how to remove the facia?
Since the drawing does not show the screws on the unit it is hard for me to tell. I would start with trying to remove the fascia first by locating the screws that hold it on. If you cannot remove the fascia THEN you will need to try the alternate or removing the cooktop surface. I just gave you the pics so you would have them IF you need them.
The age of the unit is the killer. No videos for me to post for you.
Robert - I truly appreciate the diagrams. I like to find the easy way first---so I'll look for the screws holding the fascia and hope that I can get to the control. And if that doesn't work, I'll gently remove the top. Looks like it's going to take a few days to get the replacement. Would it be alright if I wait until I've completed the job before I "accept" the great work you've done? Do you have any final words of wisdom to help me? Again, I really appreciate what you've done so far. But let's wait till I really attack the beast. Thanks Robert but I would like to hear if you have any final words?
I have no problem with waiting until you are done. The only final words I would have for you is to take your time and don't pry on anything. The unit will come apart easy when it is right.
Okay. I'll definitely will take your advice. After studying the diagram, it looks like the fascia has some hole on the top so it must not be easy to remove. Too bad the control can't be worked out through the clock opening.
I wish you luck and I will be checking back.
thanks and bye
Hi Robert -
I am online today and will be for the rest of the afternoon if you still need me.
Thanks. I couldn't loosen the 2 screws holding the Thermostat; they were really frozen on. Also, I couldn't loosen the small hex nuts holding the top on each of the burners. I tried several and even broke the head off of one. After a couple of hours, I decided to go buy a new stove. I called the parts place and they will allow me to return the thermostat. I guess we can say the repair is over even though this wasn't the way I intended it to end.
Thanks for your help.
Understood. Let me know if you need anything else in the future.