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Bryan
Bryan, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 12032
Experience:  15 yrs. experience as a certified appliance technician.
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On a Kenmore model #417.84152500 dryer, serial#xd52916283,

Customer Question

On a Kenmore model #417.84152500 dryer, serial#xd52916283, the heater doesn't work. The heater circuit checks out. I measured voltage across the RL2 on control & got 240 volts. The tech sheet says to replace control. I did & it still doesn't heat & I still get 240 volts across RL2. Did I get a bad control or is it something else?
Submitted: 3 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Bryan replied 3 years ago.

Hi,Welcome to Just Answer, My name is XXXXX XXXXX forward to helping you today. lets get started.

 

Have you tested the heater itself for continuity with one of the wires removed from the heater? Also have you removed both wires from the heater itself and test it for 240 Volts at those two wires? You would need to unplug the dryer of course and take both wires off the heater coils and put your meter on the two wires while off the heater and put tape around so you don't ground them out and start the dryer, do you get 240 V there?

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
I tested the heater with 1 wire off. I didn't check for 240 volts at leads
Expert:  Bryan replied 3 years ago.
Okay so the heater checked out, you need to take the two wires off the heater and test them individually to ground as the dryer runs, one of them is not getting 120 V so you will need to trace the one that doesn't back and find out where the power is missing, one of them goes to a thermal fuse and a high limit thermostat test both sides of each of those and see if the power missing there, you need to be careful however when you do this live so unplug the dryer and connect your probes and tape them before you try starting it so you don't short anything out, there is also a relay on the board that sends power to the heater, you may trace the problem while we back to their, the other thing is half of the power comes from the motor centrifugal switch which could be an issue so you need to trace back as you go and find where the power is missing, let me know if you think you can do this, thanks, Bryan
Bryan, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 12032
Experience: 15 yrs. experience as a certified appliance technician.
Bryan and 5 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Only problem is, the tech sheet says the control is bad if I have 240 volts across RL2 on control board
Expert:  Bryan replied 3 years ago.
Where did you get the new control board?
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
sundberg
Expert:  Bryan replied 3 years ago.
I can't pull up the service tech sheet on this I'm still looking through my tech sheets, so on line 2 on the board you are getting 240 V? From where to where are you testing? I you testing to ground?
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
There are 2 terminals on RL2 which is the heater relay. I tested across the 2 terminals
Expert:  Bryan replied 3 years ago.
Okay across the two terminals on the black relay on the left side in this picture?
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
yes
Expert:  Bryan replied 3 years ago.
Okay that is correct you should not get 240 V of cross those two, how this works is that is a relay that pulls in and on one side you will have 120 and when the relay engages it sends the power to the other side which then continues on to the heater so you should not get 240 V, in fact this should even read just going across those two, try taking one of the wires off of that and test to ground each side of that while it's running, you should get 120 on both sides if it's engaging that is, in other words you might be getting a feedback of 120 V which is what I think you are getting from the heater itself or from the motor centrifugal switch back to the relay so take one wire off and test the relay, I'm not sure which wire you have to pull one of them will be the feed and one of them will be the out to the heater, let me know what you find when you do this, thanks, Bryan
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Ok, thanks. I won't be able to test it untill later today.
Expert:  Bryan replied 3 years ago.
Okay and while you have the wire off test across the two terminals I'll bet you don't get 240 V with one of the wires pulled from it, and the wire you do pull will probably have 110 V to ground, just let me know later and see if we can get to the bottom of this, thanks, Bryan

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