Okay. What part of the bin assembly is the ice door? And how do I check its function? Can you attach an exploded parts illustration

Yeah. The little gravity actuated hinged flap at the end of the chute in the freezer door. That seems to be 1) free, 2) the sound it makes on closing is reassuring, 3) it was closed when I inspected it and 4) when I put a towel around my face to seal off the room light from the top of the chute, I did not see any light emanating up from the bottom. Also, the rubber seems supple. BUT, now that I am aware,I will keep my eye on it. And if it seems to hang open, then I will release the $38. Otherwise, we will need to proceed to Step 2. Appreciate the clue, and don't worry, I won't stiff you if you stick with me on this.

Deal. Give me a day or so here. Washed out bin is now drying out, and produced ice bagged (but I don't put it back in the bin) -- the ice being hard and not clumped. Also, ice cream became harder than hell when I lowered the freezer temp. So for now I'm believing the digital display.

Here's a photo of the jam. The stationary and rotating rake teeth wobble and wedge. The flap door seems reliable and the compartment very cold.
/Users/Customer/Desktop/DSCN0001.JPG

Had to go over to the dark side (Windoze) of my computer to upload pic. Just Answer needs to fix this for Mac users. We don't see the paper clip.

From my perspective, the wobbly crusher elements promote wedging of the cubes and cube segments.

Meanwhile, I'm still testing the door. Seems to always shut solid, but I'm keeping my eye on it. And I will go to the hardware store to get a thermometer today or tomorrow.

The auger? Why? Looks indestructible. Or maybe I don't understand what that includes.

Okay. Temperature in the chute 1" below the ice bin (measured by a colored alcohol liquid fridge/freezer thermometer in place for about a half hour) reads -6 deg-F. Built in freezer temperature display (behind fridge compartment door) says -5 deg-F. So, the ice dispenser outlet door flap that we have been carefully watching and which always closes, can't be leaking room air.

Also, "cubes" no problem. It's just the crushed ice process that causes a jamb of the dispensing mechanism. And on this point, I agree that the wobbly "choppers", stationary and rotating, look suspicious. BUT, what does GE say about this? Maybe that's the way they're designed. Also note, there is no axial play in the drive shaft.

So, "choppers" or motor? Or what else is there? And how is the motor tested? That needs to be eliminated. Also, can the choppers simply wear out, i.e., loose their edge? What is your experience here?

Also FYI, this is Arizona. Pretty dry even during the monsoon. RH indoors here is 48%. Besides this thing worked for 2-1/2 years.

Don't need to do that as the augur drive from the input end to the choppers is solid per manual operation. But I can rarely free a jam this way as I don't have the strength, and don't want to apply a tool. Also, the cubes dispense fine, and even the crushed for a minute or so until a jam occurs.

Sounds like choppers need replacing. What's the simplest vs lowest cost way to do this. I've looked into how to release the chopper housing from the bin, but the instructions I can find on-line vary as they are anecdotal "user" contributed and not from any GE manual. Butter knife blades bending back the retaining tabs don't seem to really loosen the thing. And I don't like to use excessive force unless I really know what I'm doing.

So, I need parts to order and good instructions. Then we're basically done -- except I may recall you if something doesn't fit or I need more instruction detail. I gave you all the model and serial info at the top. Thanks, Bob

Tabs on each side of 325 are EXTREMELY stiff. Butter knives help to keep them pried in/released, but 325 doesn't seem to want to release/budge from 352 regardless. What else here? Also augur/shaft (350) is still installed because retainers 321/326 don't become assessable until 325 is pulled up and out of 352, at least half way. Will the auger shaft tilt up that far? Or does 355 need to be pulled off first? AND, what is the KIT PART NUMBER for the rotary and stationary chopper set plus 337 & 335 washers and 320 bushing? Does the kit come with better instructions? More importantly, is a kit actually available? FINALLY, have YOU actually done this???

Okay. The video is only marginally helpful -- like to see this guy (or you) wrestle with my unit. Plus he didn't get into the crusher business.

Re the parts. Not all of the little ones are available from that vendor. For instance the stationary crusher blade sub assembly, #342, is missing.

BotXXXXX XXXXXne, I just gave up here and ordered the complete bin unit while you were preparing the last two "answers", including the very unnecessary cosmetic shroud.

I'll give you an E for effort. You did call my attention to the dispenser door flap thing, even though that wasn't it and I had already indicated that the compartment was very cold, later verified.

So I'm reluctantly releasing the $$$. BUT, if it turns out it's the drive motor, I'm coming back to haunt you. Also, you could do with a better picture.

Autopsy:

It was NOT the "choppers". The center slot on the stainless steel "blade" part 356 that rotationally engages the drive flats on the chopper end of the augur/drive rod AND axially abuts the face flat between the drive rod flatted to round transition was worn/rounded out, allowing the chopper stack to loosen and wobble AND the 357 part to rotate freely and slide axially between the auger end and the 345 cover (didn't know this part was driven). The parts that needed to be ordered were principally 356 and also 357 as it is hard not to break 357 when disengaging 356 (and 357 is cheap enough). Also, to remove the 325 housing from the 352 bin, once the tabs are released (one at a time) with a knife, it helps to bop the adjacent ear of the 345 face plate up with a hammer as this subassembly is still very tight fitting.

IMHO, you should have been aware of this failure mode as the design seems to be defective here -- too much torque applied bearing load on the very short 356 part slot. Also, too little detailed information throughout our exchange.

I am refurbishing the failed bin and putting it away a a spare. It only has to last 1/6 the time of the newly installed new replacement to break even.