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Tyler Z.
Tyler Z., Appliance Doc
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 56247
Experience:  7+ years being an appliance technician with factory training.
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I have a Maytag Bravos washer MVWB300WQ0. It produced the

Customer Question

I have a Maytag Bravos washer MVWB300WQ0. It produced the 'UL' code for unbalanced load and I rearranged the load and reset it as per manual. It will not restart. I removed the load and pulled the plug to reset but it still will not restart. The machine produces a low humming sound when the restart button is pushed. The machine is about 1and 1/2 years old.
Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 2 years ago.
Hello, and thank you for using this service. I'll be helping you with your problem today.

First, OL/UL stands for “Overload”, so in other words, the washer things the tub is too hard to move because it’s overloaded and the motor is struggling or the unit is way out of balance causing the washer to struggle. The most common problem is a nut below the inner tub that needs to “float”. Floating is when the tub fills up with water to a certain level the inner basket will rise about 1 inch from the center agitator. What this does is disengage the basket from the motor so that the agitator can rotate independently from the basket. If the basket does not float then when it tries to agitate the whole basket will turn back and forth at the same speed as the agitator and this will cause the OL/UL error code.

To fix the problem if the basket is not floating you will have to take the washer apart. Below are the steps to follow if you are mechanically able to tackle it:

1. Unplug the power cord

2. Lift the top of the washer up, to do this there are 2 latches in the seams between the top and
the bottom sections. These latches are about 6 1/2 inches from the right side and left side of the washer. You need to insert a small screwdriver (be careful not to scratch the paint) and push the latch while lifting the top section.

3. The top will actually fold back leaving the inner tube fully exposed. Support the glass lid so it doesn’t get damaged because it is very heavy and will fall open when you flip the top back.

4. Remove the plastic top of the tub. There is one hose connected at the back and there are several snaps around the outer edge that hold it on. Remove the hose and unsnap the snaps and set it aside.

5. Remove the cap covering the very center of the agitator. It is just snapped in place and can be pried off with a small screwdriver.

6. Remove the center screw under the cap.

7. Remove the agitator, you need to lift it evenly and might have to work your way around by pulling on one of the three fins and then the next and so on. I also had luck using a small pair of needle nose pliers and grabbing a small lip inside the area where the screw was and pulling from there.

8. Remove the 6 Phillips screws in the middle holding the plastic top gear in place. Be very careful you don’t drop one of the screws because it can fall through the slots in the basket and be lost below.

9. Remove the plastic top gear.

10. Pull the plastic lower gear off of the splined shaft. It should pull right off.

11. Now you need to pull the basket up and off of the shaft. This is where you might have problems because the basket might be corroded to the shaft. If you can grab the basket on both sides under the outer lip and pull upward it might pull up. If not, then you will have to figure out a way to get it off.

12. Once the basket is off you will notice there is liquid inside of it. That is factory sealed in there so do not worry about that, it is normal.

13. With the basket is off you will be able to see that the shaft is probably corroded and the inside bearing on the basket is corroded. Clean these both off very good and check to see if the basket can easily go back on the shaft and slide up and down without getting stuck. You may need to sand and file the shaft a little bit to get it totally cleaned up. The inner bearing of the basket is plastic so it is pretty easy to clean with light sanding.

14. Reassemble in the reverse order and your done. Check to make sure the basket can easily float now by pulling up on it from the top inside lips.

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
The cycle did not finish so there is water in the machine. You cannot see the water but the tub does move around easily. Do I still need to perform the disassembly?
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 2 years ago.
yes you will.

Tyler Z., Appliance Doc
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 56247
Experience: 7+ years being an appliance technician with factory training.
Tyler Z. and 5 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I pulled the basket and cleaned the shaft and bearing. I also baled out the water. Put everything back together. I started a small load on normal setting. It ran for about 15 minutes and stopped. Same as before. Will not restart and produces a low humming noise when the start button is pressed. What can I do next?
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 2 years ago.
ok then it sounds like your RPS sensor is acting up and isn't telling the motor how to run properly. There is an RPS sensor mounted to the motor below your tub and that part will need to be ordered and replaced.

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
What's the best way to get at it? Tip the machine and get to it from underneath? Or remove the basket. Do you have a written procedure?
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 2 years ago.
you get at it from the bottom. I don't have a procedure for it, but if you tip your washer backwards and unplug the unit, you'll see the motor mounted to the bottom of the tub. Remove the large center bolt, then remove the 4 or 6 bolts around the center ring after you remove the rotor hub. Now the motor will pull down and the RPS sensor is the small plastic part with 3 wires going to it on the right side of the motor.

Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Great Thanks. What is it sensing? Tilt? Inertia?

 

You don't think it's the CPU board? We had that replaced soon after we bought the machine over a year ago.

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 2 years ago.
actually it senses the magnetic force generated by the motor and then transfers that information to the control board to tell the motor how to operate correctly. I really don't think the control board would cause this issue, usually the board is known for causing an F1 error and that's about it.

Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Just to let you know that I changed out the RPS sensor at the stator. The washer is running fine now. Thank you.

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 2 years ago.
awesome, glad it's all working again.

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Darn! I spoke too soon. The washer started okay and ran thru the wash cycle then just stops. I believe the next cycle is the drain cycle. Would a bad drain solenoid valve cause it? What can I check next?
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 2 years ago.
so it's not giving you an error this time? it's just stopping?

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Correct. No error code. It shows the time remaining. It will not reset or restart. Tried unplugging it too.
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 2 years ago.
hmm, now that's different, I'm really not sure what to say if it won't restart or reset, it sounds like your control board is bad for one reason or another.

Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Just to be sure, a bad drain solenoid valve wouldn't hold the cycle and the CPU board isn't waiting for the tub to empty? Or some other sensor that would hold up the cycle?

 

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 2 years ago.
no, that wouldn't stop the washer without giving an error code, and unpluging the unit would reset the issue anyways.

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
That's what I was thinking. The board had to be replaced the second day I got it. So it makes sense that it maybe it's the same issue again. I wasn't there when it was replaced. Does this model have a history of cpu board problems? How do I open the display to get to the board?
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 2 years ago.
It does have a history of bad control board, but realistically it usually gives an F1 error. There should be some screws going down through the back of the control panel you need to remove first. Then there are 2 metal springs under the right and left of the control panel that you need to use a putty knife to slide under the control panel to push back on to release the control panel so that it pulls up and off.

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I'll get one tomorrow. There really isn't much else. Thanks for your time today.
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 2 years ago.
no problem. Sorry you're having all these problems but good luck to you.

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Hey Doc, just for shits and giggles I took the water level tube off the pressure sensor on the cpu board. The machine turn the water valve on for a few seconds and then attempted to start the motor for the spin cycle. I can hear the windings hum so I'm thinking the motor isn't getting the right stepper sequence from the board to start. Basically confirming that the board is'nt good. The motor is perfectly clean when I changed the rps sensor so I'm ruling out it out.
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 2 years ago.
yeah, assuming the RPS sensor was installed properly, that would probably be correct.

Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Just to follow-up with the problem:

I replaced the controller board but it did not solve the problem. I investigated further. When the drain cycle would try to start, there was a humming sound coming from below washer. I proceeded to remove the rear back cover and tilted the washer back. I touched the drain pump and that was the source. I gave it a few sharp raps with a screwdriver handle and low and behold, the pump started but with an intermitent grinding sound. The pump had some pennies in it. I noticed the plastic sump drain area that feeds the pump had about 10 coins in it also. I removed the basket and cleaned it out. Long story short. ~ Check the drain sump for foreign objects. ~

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 2 years ago.
interesting, something is odd about that because it should give a different error code if it's not draining LD for "Long Drain".

Customer: replied 2 years ago.
No codes on the original controller or on the new one. Maybe it would have if I left it humming for a long period of time. I didn't let go for more than a minute - too afraid of burning out something.
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 2 years ago.
I see, a minute would definitely not be long enough to get the error code, it times out after 5 minutes.

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