Appliance Repair Questions? Ask a Technician for Answers ASAP
hello let me help you with that.
I have called justanswer before and talked with several experts. Did several voltage tests and discovered voltage readings were too low....10 volts instead of 13. The expert recommended I get a new board. Did that today but the problem persists! So what I had hoped would be the solution, hasn't helped. So I am grateful for this 7 day free access. We don't have access to GE technicians to come and look at the fridge so I am dependant on on-line infor and service people like yourself who have to try to diagnose the problem from a distance. Ready for your help.
So what do you need next?
hello thank you for allowing me to help,the damper comes with a thermister attachet replace the damper assembly and your prob.will be solved .
the damper is broken.
Where is this thermistor. I replaced the thermistor which is situated in the upper fridge (ceiling), and that was supposed to solve the problem. The damper closes , but does not open...only occassionally can I feel cold air coming from the top of the air column. What do you think is broken in the damper?
Is there an independent test to double check the operation of the damper. What is the cost of replacing the damper assembly? If I have to spend more money on this, I need to be sure the problem is fixed!
I have looked at part #603...loosened the 3 screws that hold it in place and checked the damper as advised by another expert. I did not notice a thermistor in the wiring for the damper. And I watched the damper close smoothly when I plugged the fridge back in. If it is a thermistor, where is it situated and why could that not be replaced instead of replacing the whole assembly?
sorry the thermister is on another unit,replace 603 and your prob.will be over.thats all i can tell you ,dont accept untill you see that i am right.
I need to know what controls the damper, and how to test that circuit.
Also, the temperature control panel shows an accurate reading for the freezer, but totally off base for the fresh food portion. eg. the control may show 34 degrees F but using an independant thermometer, the actual temp is between 55 & 60 degrees F. Is there a way to adjust that?
no you have got to replace the damper.i would also replace the control again take it back as defective.
I just had a technician check my fridge. He checked the damper and found nothing wrong with it. H e suggested the control board may be at fault but didn't seem to have any tests that would help diagnose board problems! The applicance store from which I purchased the board felt it was highly unlikely that 2 boards in a row would have problems. I do understand that the boards have a 1 year warranty. If they are willing to swap boards, it just means a 200 km trip for me.
Ok how do you know that the damper is not opening and manually opening it is probably damaging it.
when the damper opens, cold air from the freezer is blown up the damper housing to the slots that disperse that cold air into the fridge. If unchecked, the cold air causes the fridge to get too cold. So I have partially taped the openings closed. I don't open and close the damper manually.
I'm still interested in what you refered to before about cutting the wire to pin 2. The same instruction sheet that says this should be done, also says to cut the green wire in the capacitor board. So is this what needs to be done?
Serial # RF049109
My question stated that the damper didn't seem to open enough to bring the temperature down to the 37 degrees indicated on the temperature control panel. So the damper closes, and it opens but not for long enough. As best I can tell, the opening of the damper is sporadic /inconsistent. It seems to close when the compressor starts. At least when I had the damper assembly off and could watch it, that is what was happening. Hope this helps you.