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Anon-aabbcc
Anon-aabbcc, Appliance Technician
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Experience:  12+ Years experience
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Damper between freezer and fridge doesnt open enough to lower

Customer Question

Damper between freezer and fridge doesn't open enough to lower fridge temperatures to 37degrees F. Have checked damper and it moves freely if manually set. Have just replaced control panel. The fridge is a GE Profile with bottom freezer.
Submitted: 3 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  rick ready replied 3 years ago.

rick ready :

hello let me help you with that.

Customer :

I have called justanswer before and talked with several experts. Did several voltage tests and discovered voltage readings were too low....10 volts instead of 13. The expert recommended I get a new board. Did that today but the problem persists! So what I had hoped would be the solution, hasn't helped. So I am grateful for this 7 day free access. We don't have access to GE technicians to come and look at the fridge so I am dependant on on-line infor and service people like yourself who have to try to diagnose the problem from a distance. Ready for your help.

Customer :

So what do you need next?

rick ready :

hello thank you for allowing me to help,the damper comes with a thermister attachet replace the damper assembly and your prob.will be solved .

rick ready :

the damper is broken.

Customer :

Where is this thermistor. I replaced the thermistor which is situated in the upper fridge (ceiling), and that was supposed to solve the problem. The damper closes , but does not open...only occassionally can I feel cold air coming from the top of the air column. What do you think is broken in the damper?

Customer :

Is there an independent test to double check the operation of the damper. What is the cost of replacing the damper assembly? If I have to spend more money on this, I need to be sure the problem is fixed!

rick ready :

Full Size Image
#603 on image part # XXXXX please trust me i would not tell you if it werent true.

Customer :

I have looked at part #603...loosened the 3 screws that hold it in place and checked the damper as advised by another expert. I did not notice a thermistor in the wiring for the damper. And I watched the damper close smoothly when I plugged the fridge back in. If it is a thermistor, where is it situated and why could that not be replaced instead of replacing the whole assembly?

rick ready :

sorry the thermister is on another unit,replace 603 and your prob.will be over.thats all i can tell you ,dont accept untill you see that i am right.

rick ready :

good night.

Customer :

I need to know what controls the damper, and how to test that circuit.

Customer :

Also, the temperature control panel shows an accurate reading for the freezer, but totally off base for the fresh food portion. eg. the control may show 34 degrees F but using an independant thermometer, the actual temp is between 55 & 60 degrees F. Is there a way to adjust that?

rick ready :

no you have got to replace the damper.i would also replace the control again take it back as defective.

Customer :

I just had a technician check my fridge. He checked the damper and found nothing wrong with it. H e suggested the control board may be at fault but didn't seem to have any tests that would help diagnose board problems! The applicance store from which I purchased the board felt it was highly unlikely that 2 boards in a row would have problems. I do understand that the boards have a 1 year warranty. If they are willing to swap boards, it just means a 200 km trip for me.

Expert:  Anon-aabbcc replied 3 years ago.
HI thanks for choosing Just answer my name is XXXXX XXXXX do not need a damper, the board you installed is not installed correctly, you need to cut a wire thats on the board more than likely, its causing it to read temperatures incorrectly and closes the damper, if you can take the panel off and verify some things for me i will tell you what wire to cut. Let me know.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Thanks for replying to my question. I know the installation sheet that comes with the control board says to cut a wire. I asked the technician supplying the board about needing to cut anything. His response was to just forget about that as it isn't necessary. You are saying not cutting it distorts the readings and does make a difference.? This puzzles/confuses me! But what is your thinking on this matter and what do I have to do? I was told yesterday by the technician who came out to diagnose the problem that the board is faulty. ???
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
I have removed the cover panel from the control board. Waiting for further info/instructions.
Expert:  Anon-aabbcc replied 3 years ago.
Well believe me it needs cut, i work for GE i do these all day, just to verify do you have turn knobs inside your refrigerator or do you have a digital display in there, and if you do have turn knobs there you need to cut the wire, you take the cover off the board, and upright right hand corner there is a plug, i believe it has 9 pins, the wire coming from the 2nd pin to the right on that plug needs to be cut, just to be sure you dont do anything incorrect that you cant undo make sure you cut it a couple inches away from the plug on the board so you can reattach if you do it wrong, all you have to do is cut it in half and in 24 hours it will be back to normal.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
I have a digital display. It shows the temp of the freezer quite accurately but the frost free portion does not show accurate temperatures At the present time, in order to be able to use the frost free section, I have disconnected the damper and am manually controlling the opening that allows cold air into the upper section....using duct tape. This works somewhat but is not a satisfactory solution.
Expert:  Anon-aabbcc replied 3 years ago.

Ok how do you know that the damper is not opening and manually opening it is probably damaging it.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

when the damper opens, cold air from the freezer is blown up the damper housing to the slots that disperse that cold air into the fridge. If unchecked, the cold air causes the fridge to get too cold. So I have partially taped the openings closed. I don't open and close the damper manually.

I'm still interested in what you refered to before about cutting the wire to pin 2. The same instruction sheet that says this should be done, also says to cut the green wire in the capacitor board. So is this what needs to be done?

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Still waiting for a response re: cutting wire to pin 2 and cutting the green wire to capacitor board as shown on instruction sheet with the control board.
Expert:  Anon-aabbcc replied 3 years ago.
i would need the exact model and serial, usually a digital display causes too warm which is what i originally thought you were saying i misunderstood, originally you said the damper was closing but not opening so which is it, is it not closing or not opening?
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Model...PDS22SBPARSS

Serial # RF049109

 

My question stated that the damper didn't seem to open enough to bring the temperature down to the 37 degrees indicated on the temperature control panel. So the damper closes, and it opens but not for long enough. As best I can tell, the opening of the damper is sporadic /inconsistent. It seems to close when the compressor starts. At least when I had the damper assembly off and could watch it, that is what was happening. Hope this helps you.

Expert:  Anon-aabbcc replied 3 years ago.
Ok first of all when you are watching this do you have the door switch pushed in? the damper does not open as long as the refrigerator door is open, 2nd is the door switch located at the top of the cabinet or on the side wall?
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
No, I didn't have the door switch pushed in. The door switch is located at the top of the cabinet.
Expert:  Anon-aabbcc replied 3 years ago.
Ok on the bottom of the refrigerator door on the hinge on the outside there should be a bolt that screws up and down that adjusts the door, you need to turn that turn the right several turns to raise the door up, its not engaging the switch all the way and causing the damper to close, and this is causing temp problems, if you look at the doors when they are both shut if it looks like the refrigerator door is hanging lower than the freezer door this is your problem.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
I measured the gap between the freezer door and the fridge door. The fridge door sags about 2 mm. but is very close to even with all outside edges of the fridge. The fridge door engages the switch about 2 1/2 inches before it is closed. So doesn't appear to be a problem with the switch not being engaged. Also,on this model, there is no bolt that turns to raise the door. The hinge has 2 screws which would need to be loosened so it could be moved
Expert:  Anon-aabbcc replied 3 years ago.
Ok have you ever checked the back of the freezer for frost? this is a more likely problem dampers dont usually break and boards dont normally cause damper problems unless the door isnt shut right or you need to cut a wire but i dont believe the wire needs cut on this one.
Expert:  Barry G. replied 3 years ago.
Hi there Sean, just letting you know there is another question about the same thing just below. I think you would want to read over it.

Take care,
Barry

http://www.justanswer.com/appliance/5b2xb-ge-refrigerator-profile-pds22sbparss-bottom-freezer.html
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
I replaced the original board after the compressor would not start and I was told I needed a new board. This new board was installed according to instruction except that the #2 pin wire was not cut. The technician I bought the board from said this step was not necessary. Installing this board got my compressor running again. But, the fridge temp was not getting cold enough. I was given a voltage reading between pins 3 & 4 and 3 & 8 (13 volts for both with a few percentage points lee way. Pins 3 & 4 actually read 10 volts and 3 & 8 read 14 volts. The technician helping me said the board was bad and needed to be replaced. I got a new board. Upon installation of this 2nd new board, voltage readings between pins 3&4 was still 10 volts and between 3 & 8 was 14 volts. No wires were cut when installing this board. The board # XXXXX XXXXX At the present moment the damper is disconnected and left in the open position so the fresh food in the fridge won't spoil. We have family here for the long week-end sowill be unable to empty fridge, hook up the damper and take a reading until later. Thanks
Expert:  Anon-aabbcc replied 3 years ago.
Ok barry are these the same customer? and is this a bottom freezer? Ok like i posted on the other question if this is a bottom freezer and you have wr55x10552 in there it is not the correct board, 10552 goto multispeed compressors and this is not a multispeed who told you to put a 10552 in there?
Expert:  Anon-aabbcc replied 3 years ago.
I apologize i misread this the 10552 is an older number thats why it was confusing me, you have an older style board in there, not sure where you bought it but they should be selling 942 by now, either way i would say this is not your problem as long as the board runs on that model it will not cause damper problems that i'm aware of, you have a bad sensor in the freezer, causing frost build up which makes it look like the damper isnt opening but it is. its a $25.00 part. WR55X10025. It will require disassembling freezer.

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