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Barry G.
Barry G., Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 6417
Experience:  27 years in home appliance repair. EPA refrigerant transition and recovery certification type I & II.
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#8737202-697 is my referral number from yesterday. I have

Resolved Question:

#8737202-697 is my referral number from yesterday. I have heard nothing yet. How long does it take for a technician to answer?
Trisha
Submitted: 3 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Barry G. replied 3 years ago.
Hello Trisha, my name is XXXXX XXXXX I will be assisting you.

Please look in the fresh food section up near the top for model/serial sticker and post the model number. I need the model to be able to see the diagrams. What is your GE refrigerator doing? Take a look in the freezer at the rear wall, can you find a frosted spot on the rear inside freezer wall anywhere? Is the fan blowing in the freezer?

Barry
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
OOPS! I sent a reply on the wrong page. ( I just sent on the new question page.) I'll start over. Model # XXXXX XXXXX BB. Not receiving an email, I didn't see a previous response on your site saying I have a defrost problem, but I knew that already. To repeat the first question:" My refrigerator occasionally turns off. I'm aware that there is a defrost timer but nowhere in the manual does is mention how often it runs of how to control it. My freezer will start defrosting, and Ice cubes will melt all over causing puddles. Then it refreezes and I have slabs of ice everywhere. I have sometimes reset the temp controls on front panel to get it going again. Also, the fridge side is too warm on top and freezes stuff in the crispers in the bottom."
That is my original question which I feel is unanswered. I was expecting a reply with which parts are possibly failing. I'm guessing fans are an issue. In answer to you, The rear wall of the freezer looks evenly frosty everywhere, especially after it goes into defrost without call and then starts to cool down again. The fan is not blowing in the freezer. Thanks, Trisha
Expert:  Barry G. replied 3 years ago.
Thats ok, you made it!

I am glad you returned I would have never known. Have you defrosted the freezer before and do you have or know someone who has an ohm meter? First Unplug the power cord from the wall outlet. In the freezer remove the panel with the frost on it. You will need to take a hair dryer and defrost the coils behind that. I need a description of how much frost is in those coils. Completely clogged with frost?

And yes I am going to help you find the problem and get the correct part number for you. Thats exactly what I do.

Barry
CLICK TO ENLARGE
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
We have an ohm meter. Will follow your instructions but cannot answer for a few hours. I have an appointment to go to. Thanks, Trisha
Expert:  Barry G. replied 3 years ago.
Thats fine, I have to run out later this evening as well. Not for long but I will leave you a message and let you know when I am gone and for how long.

Barry
Expert:  Barry G. replied 3 years ago.
Unplug the refrigerator before you start. This board is located under an 8 x 10 metal panel about 2 feet from the floor on the rear outside wall.

With your freezer coils freezing cold or the freezer cold make this measurement (the coils must be cold). So if you have not defrosted the freezer coils yet go ahead and do this test first.

Unplug the power cord from the wall outlet. Disconnect the connector on the main board, its blue and arrowed red in the picture below. Set your meter to ohms and put one lead from your meter in the blue connector (CENTER HOLE) where it was connected to the board. With the other lead from your meter rotate through the 3 prongs on the power cord that was in the wall outlet. Did you get a reading?
Barry
CLICK TO ENLARGE
graphic

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Will do all of the above, and will respond. Would prefer to wait for you as opposed to anyone else...
Trisha
Expert:  Barry G. replied 3 years ago.
Thank you, XXXXX XXXXX that. I expect it will be several more hours before I go.

Barry
Expert:  Barry G. replied 3 years ago.
I have to head out for about 30 minutes. It is now 4:15 eastern time. I will be back by 4:45.

Barry
Expert:  Barry G. replied 3 years ago.
I am back, just letting you know.

Barry
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
2001-07-15 @ 1:30 PM
Barry:
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, but our computer was marking your emails as junk. We have now corrected this problem.
This is Trish's other half, Bruce. As per your instructions, I unplugged the fridge, the coils were cold, unplugged the connector from the main board and tested the three plug prongs with my digital ohm meter as you described in your email. The ground (round) prong read 0 ohms. Of the 2 spade prongs, one had an "N" beside it (neutral??) which read 22.2 ohms. The other spade had no letter beside it and it read .719K ohms.
I accessed the coils in the freezer side by removing the panel. The top of the coils was very plugged with frost and the bottom had frost but not solid. We have a picture to show you, I will try to attach it to this email. If this does not work, send me another email toXXX@XXXXXX.XXX and I will attach it. I then used a hair dryer to melt all the frost. I noticed the heating element. Was going to test the element for continuity but could not get either wire off and I did not wish to force the issue right now. I put the panel back on.
I accessed the compressor area as I have never cleaned the circular coils. They did have dust on them but did not look excessive. Tried to vacuum, to no avail so brought up my air compressor hose and blew the dust off. Is this the only way to clean the coils properly? I put the panel back on.
The fan in the freezer has always worked.
When the defrost timer heats the element, I assume the fridge does not work at all. If the defrost time stays on too long, would this cause the ice in the freezer to melt and the food to thaw??

Thx

Bruce
Expert:  Barry G. replied 3 years ago.
Hi Bruce give me some time to catch up with you.

Barry
Expert:  Barry G. replied 3 years ago.
What you will need to do is replace the board you tested from. The heating element read good as did the defrost thermostat. You read through both of those, the part that is left is the control board which has the defrost timer built on it. The board is not difficult to replace, unplug the fridge before you start and put the connectors where they will fit. They only fit where they belong.

Follow the instruction sheet to step 2. All of the other steps are for other model refrigerators. The part number is XXXXX One place that has that part online is LOCATED HERE. If you prefer locally you can use that number there and get it.

If you will defrost your unit you should be able to use it about 2 weeks before the coills clog with frost again.

Barry
Barry G., Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 6417
Experience: 27 years in home appliance repair. EPA refrigerant transition and recovery certification type I & II.
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Barry G.
Barry G.
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27 years in home appliance repair. EPA refrigerant transition and recovery certification type I & II.