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Eric
Eric, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 244
Experience:  Factory/company training at MAJOR retailer, now owns and operates an appliance repair business.
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Had trouble with gas 6400 dryer not shutting off. Replaced

Customer Question

Had trouble with gas 6400 dryer not shutting off. Replaced timer, no problems switching this module, now dryer wont turn on. Light inside drum comes on, so there is power to the unit. What should I look at now?
Submitted: 5 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Eric replied 5 years ago.

Eric :

Hello! My name is XXXXX XXXXX I am happy to help you with this today

Eric :

Have you checked to make sure that your door switch is working correctly?

Eric :

If the door switch circuit is open, the dryer will turn on. Im sure your door is closed but if one of the wires is not connected, the dryer will not turn on and you said the previous problem was that it would not turn OFF.

Customer:

I pushed it in and tried to start it. Should i remove the switch and short it?

Eric :

Sorry, I meant will not turn on

Eric :

Yes. only if you feel comfortable with that, then short the switch.

Eric :

Make sure you short the circuit that makes the light turn OFF in the drum though

Eric :

There will likely be three wires on the switch

Customer:

Before I short it, the light does go off when I push it

Eric :

Ok. then it is NOT likely to be a door switch prob.

Eric :

Give me a sec to check the schematic...

Customer:

white and yellow, grey, violet, i will wait to short the switch

Eric :

Short white and purple to close the circuit..

Eric :

White and yellow connect to the same point electrically

Customer:

i am having trouble getting the switch out again

Eric :

They can be tricky. Easier to get from inside the door panel

Customer:

totally exploded the switch

Customer:

meaning it is broken apart

Eric :

You mean when you tried to remove it? Hopefully you had power removed from it when you attempted

Eric :

mechanically exploded or electrically?

Customer:

mech

Customer:

power is fine

Customer:

shorted, still wont start

Eric :

OK. Thermal fuse must now be checked. You know how to get the front panel off to access the blower housing?

Customer:

i have the door and the bottom front panel off

Eric :

Ok. REMOVE POWER, then chec k for continuity across the small white cylindrical device mounted on the blower duct/housing. SHOULD have two gray wires on it

Customer:

if the purple and white/yellow are shorted what should i do with the grey wire

Eric :

You mean on the switch, right?

Eric :

The gray wire on the DOOR SWITCH is for the light and is irrelevant.

Eric :

That circuit only closes when the door is OPEN

Customer:

i had to grab my meter

Eric :

No problem

Eric :

The device you are looking for looks like this :

Eric :

and its mounted on the blower housing.

Customer:

i dont see two grey wires, i see purple and brown

Customer:

i dont see two gray wires just purple and brown, i must be looking at the wrong thing

Eric :

do you see the picture of the device i enclosed?

Customer:

i dont see two gray, just purple and brown. I must be looking at the wrong part

Eric :

Its about 1.5 to 2 inches long

Eric :

wiring colors COULD be different, but its the ONLY thing that looks like that on the blower housing

Customer:

sorry for repeating i didnt see it on the screen

Eric :

Not a problem at all. See it now?

Customer:

i have continuity

Eric :

Ok good. Gimme a sec to check schematic again

Eric :

Wow ok. So lets go back a bit.

Customer:

ok

Eric :

FIRST, the dryer was WORKING, but would not turn OFF, correct? ALL heat was ok and tumble was ok but cycle was infinite. Correct?

Customer:

yes

Eric :

Now, When you push in on the knob, you hear NOTHING from the machine and you HAVE tried all the different cycles and temps?

Eric :

AFTER replacing the timer

Customer:

yes

Customer:

i have replaced the timer two times this week. i put the old one back and it still would not work

Eric :

Im still looking at the schematic to try and figure this out. Sounds like a wiring prob, but i need to isolate. please give me some time.You have replaced the timer twice as well, which would almost completely eliminate a bad part scenario

Eric :

Ok. So if you are SURE the thermal fuse is ok, i am leaning towards an open overload INSIDE the motor. To check this, you will check, according to the schematic, between terminals 4 and 3 on the motor harness connector

Eric :

PLEASE be sure that you DID in fact verify that the THERMAL FUSE was ok

Eric :

VERY important, because if you did and you had continuity, considering everything you have told me is correct, you will have to replace the motor because the built-in overload is bad

Eric :

This is part of the motor unfortunately.

Customer:

that was the unit that was pictured

Customer:

measured it again, i have continuity

Customer:

would the motor typically fail when it is not running. Seams odd that it occured during the module switch

Eric :

Yes, I definitely agree, however, you MUST first check continuity between the points on th MOTOR side of the MOTOR connector. Electricity does not lie

Customer:

how do i access

Customer:

i removed the connector on top which pins on the motor side

Eric :

You said before that you had accessed the lower area. So you can see the motor, the blower housing and the wiring harness connector to the motor, correct?

Customer:

yes

Eric :

Terminals 4 and 3 on the MOTOR side

Customer:

from left, or right side

Eric :

The terminals on the connector SHOULD be labeled with numbers

Eric :

If not, where the GRAY wire and the WHITE wire connect

Customer:

no continuity

Eric :

Sorry to tell you, no doubt about it , your motor is bad.

Eric :

Hang on, Ill get you a poart number.

Eric :

part

Customer:

is it worth replacing

Eric :

Honestly, not really. The dryer is worth about 100 or less dollars

Customer:

all right thanks

Eric and 2 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you

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