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Repairman1981
Repairman1981, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 4548
Experience:  7 years Repairing Appliances, Factory Trained in Several Major Brands
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I have a LG gas dryer model # XXXXX 2532W. It does not get hot

Resolved Question:

I have a LG gas dryer model # XXXXX 2532W. It does not get hot at all. I have already tried pressing the little black reset swith insideon he tube but that did not work andId ont think it was needing to be reset. I opened the front panel turned it on and watches the ignitor get red hot but the gas never ignited. I took a volt meter and red the volage going to the gas valave #1 when you turn the dryer on.. the voltage is at 50 volts AC.. What next?
Submitted: 3 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Repairman1981 replied 3 years ago.

Repairman1981 :

You should have 120vac, so you have a bad control board

Repairman1981 :

Need to replace it next.

Repairman1981 :

Do you need model number? I am happy to look it up if so

Customer: R u sure? I was thinking the safety overtemp sensors are bad? They r at ohms resistance over 2? Why would the solid state control board go bad?
Repairman1981 :

The easy answer, it's an LG ..... the real answer the safety/over temp sensors are fine if your getting anywhere under 10 on resistance. They are like switches. They are bad then they are open, if your running 2 or 9 your fine. Really your probably fine up to around 100 or so ohms.

Repairman1981 :

They just pass power, so ..... i would say it's time to order and replace the board

Customer: Wow, I was not expecting that. What is the cost of this board?
Customer:

Is there any other tests I should perform to make sure that the board is really the issue here?

Customer:

I can also be reached right now at XXX-XXX-XXXX if you want me to perform test live over the phone.

Customer:

I can be reached at nine four nine six eight zero seven three two nine.

Customer:

Is the part number for my board 3854EL4002A?

Customer:

or is it 6871EC2025J?

Customer:

The last part number I can find for control type boards is 6871EC1061C. Please advise if the correct part number. Thank you...

Repairman1981 :

If you can safely get to it you can put a volt meter on the gas valve while it's trying to light. You should get 120v

Repairman1981 :

If you only get say 50 or 70 or something like that you know the relay on the board is bad and not sending the right power (UNDER LOAD) to the valve

Repairman1981 :

6871EC1061C is the correct board Im showing. Lg is no tthe best with part lookups though, so .... it looks WAY too cheap, sears parts direct is showing less than 40 bucks for it. ..... Never seen a power board that cheap.


 

Customer: I saw that also.. And that is very cheap.. Should I order that part number from sears? As u said it seems to cheap. Hope they send the right part?!?
Repairman1981 :

I would and if it isn't right you will have to contact lg to get the right one. This would mean the lookup is wrong. I double checked with lg's lookup. Same as sears for the part number and real similar on pricing. Maybe it's cheap crap and that is why is broke. I cannot imagine a control board being that cheap but hey I have been surprised by this industry before. If it is wrong don't install it .....electrical parts are't returnable once plugged in

Repairman1981 :

thanks!

Customer:

ok so I got a new board plugged it in and guess what... I still only have about 50 volts to the gas valve #1... what the heck????

Customer:

When I reviewed the test 7 in the manual (gas valve test) for gas dryers it says when you have less then 90 volts on the valve you are supposed to look at the "check thermostat hi limit safety". Any comments on this? Where is thie hi limit safety? IS there only 1 high limit safety? Is there a way to bypass this HI limit safety to see if the gas turns on?

Customer:

Have you gone dark on me?

Customer: I just finished double checking everything. The hi limit thermostats that have a white and red wire and the other a red and gray wire both read about 1.5 ohms. I have a new board installed and I am still only getting around 50 volts to the gas valve #1??? What am I missing here?
Customer: I also checked the Flame Detect?? It reads around 1 ohm.. I am lost here.. Any suggestions?
Repairman1981 :

in regards XXXXX XXXXX previous post about the hi-limit thermostat being blown causing the low voltage, we skipped that step because it's the little black reset inside on the tube

Repairman1981 :

You said you have already tried that and it didn't work

Repairman1981 :

If you have a glowing glowbar, and less than 90 volts the board has to be the issue, you have changed that, so .....I'll be real honest with you, your at replace it or part swap mode. Everything your checking is reading right. The hi-limits are pretty much a dead short.

Repairman1981 :

1.5 ohms would be right or close enough not to matter

Repairman1981 :

what you don't want on them is an open

Repairman1981 :

I want to say there is a thermistor that could be saying it's too hot, but that wouldn't explain the glow bar glowing

Repairman1981 :

If your glowbar is glowing then you have a board saying I need heat

Repairman1981 :

If your board is saying that and your not getting enough voltage ..... board ...... you have done the board. So that would leave a wiring harness in between, but I cannot walk you through replacing a wiring harness over the internet. Unless you can check your wiring with a meter and find a connector not touching andrepair just that .... I'm gonna have to declare this one a mystery

Repairman1981 :

If I were there to just go through everything with a try this try that mentality I might could find it, but everything normal on this one isn't the case

Repairman1981 :

Just since we haven't discussed it, have you replaced the ignitor or was there a reason you didn't want to?

Repairman1981 :

Normally I start there on all gas dryers, they can be bad even if glowing

Customer: If I apply about 90 volts to the gas valve 1 it should open, right? Using a dimmer type switch could I do this in line on a cord plugged into wall.. I want to make surevtge gas valve will open. Why would the board only send 50 volts instead of 90+ volts to gas valve #1? what regulates a lower voltage instead of let's say no voltage?
Customer: I also want to give u sone history on this. The dryer just did not stop heating one day. It like phased out.. Meaning it dried poorly then I had to set the dryer to manual speed dry to dry and get hot then it stopped working. Does that help with your understanding if my gremlins?
Repairman1981 :

That would coincide with a board issue, the cause of the lower voltage is a relay with bad contacts.

Repairman1981 :

The contacts touching less and less will cause lower voltage to get to it

Repairman1981 :

Yes that test will test the coils

Repairman1981 :

However be sure the ignitor is off, or glowing. You won't wanna be there with gas spraying and a spark hit and then your in a fireball. This isn't the safest test in the world

Customer: Yes I figured that on the gas.. I'm desperate though.. The ignitor cycles. It's gets red hot then off then red hot. Normal?
Repairman1981 :

yes

Repairman1981 :

it's supposed to open the gas when at the right temp ( the resistance opens the gas)

Repairman1981 :

have you changed the ignitor yet?

Customer: No it glows really bright though.,
Customer: Can we talk on phone now
Repairman1981 :

They will kick me off here if I give out any personal information

Repairman1981 :

would be eaiser than typing but no

Repairman1981 :

need a log for legal reasons or something

Customer: Nine four nine six eight zero seven three two nine
Repairman1981 :

have you changed the ignitor yet?

Customer: No I have not don't have another one. But the ignitor glows red hot..
Customer: Call nine four nine six eight zero seven three two nine..
Repairman1981 :

I cannot call you .... I don't wanna jeopardize my employment on the site

Repairman1981 :

They are very specific in the terms of service I can only email and chat with customers. No direct calls, work, marketing anything

Customer: :(
Repairman1981 :

The reason I'm going back to the ignitor is the ignitor changes resistance when it gets to the correct temp. If it's not there (you can't tell by looking) it will never open the gas, then go off, then come back on

Repairman1981 :

I'm sorry

Repairman1981 :

This is the only additional way I'm feeding my family when work is slows

Repairman1981 :

I can't jeopardize it

Customer: I ubderstand
Repairman1981 :

I am happy to help through here as long as needed.

Customer: Did u see my message earlier about how the heat phased out over time?
Customer: At the end I had to use manual drying
Customer: Not sensor drying
Customer: Now manual speed drying does not work
Repairman1981 :

yep That would coicincide with the relay deal ..... OR an ignitor going out. What happens usually is when your using manual rather than sensor there is no temp difference but it will run Longer

Repairman1981 :

So if the ignitor was going out, it would be off more than on, and take longer

Repairman1981 :

Also if it's a relay you would get worse and worse until you don't get 90v out of it

Repairman1981 :

I think I had you confused with someone else who has Just changed the ignitor and had this same symptom and that is why I hadn't mentioned it

Customer: Relay is in board and I got another board
Repairman1981 :

The hi-limit thing doesn't matter ... you have checked it and pressed it that is out

Customer: Chances of 2 bad boards?
Repairman1981 :

Right so you either have a wiring harness issue (NOT LIKELY) or you have a bad ignitor. The chances of 2 bad board with the same issue NO WAY

Customer: Ok good to know..
Customer: Anyway to test ignitor? Before I buy another part?
Customer: I can go thru a series of tests right now for u. I can be the eyes and hands u tell me the tests?
Repairman1981 :

There is but not a standard and it's with a clamp on amp meter ..... I haven't ever tested

Repairman1981 :

sure

Repairman1981 :

generally around 3 amps is the opening current for the valve

Customer: Just to triple check things step by step
Repairman1981 :

ok

Customer: You tell me each step to test I will test and report
Customer: Ready when u are
Repairman1981 :

do you have an amp meter that clamps around a wire?

Customer: No I have a fluke 73 series 2 multimeter that's all
Repairman1981 :

there isn't a way to test the ignitor safely without a clamp on amp meter. it should read around 3 amps, not a specific test but 2.7-3.2 is usually ok

Repairman1981 :

it isn't like it's stamped on the side what it takes ..... one test I would have you do is measure voltage on the board coming out, then at the valve

Repairman1981 :

Make sure the wire between isn't where your loosing the extra voltage

Customer: Let me ask u this..
Repairman1981 :

k

Customer: The valve 1 has a red and pink wire to it.. Right
Customer: A white plug is the plugged into the valve metal connectors
Repairman1981 :

The white is neutral the red and pink goto the board

Customer: I am reading about 50 volts when I leave the plug plugged into the valve and slightly pull it back to expose the metal leads coming out of valve that is where I am getting 50 volts
Customer: Only a red and pink wire no white
Customer: There us three wires on the valve on the top side
Repairman1981 :

there are 2 coils,

Repairman1981 :

2 wires to each

Repairman1981 :

what color to each

Customer: 2 reds and a white wire
Customer: On the top valve
Customer: The bottom valve has a red and pink wire
Customer: The red and pink wire are the only one I checjed
Repairman1981 :

try the top one to

Repairman1981 :

one is primary and one is secondary

Repairman1981 :

the top is primary it is the one you want to open, the 2nd opens when the first opens .... when you replaced the valve you changed the coils as part of it right?

Customer: Ok can u pull the plug out and stick the fluke leads into the plug then turn the dryer on and read the voltage that way?
Repairman1981 :

you can leave it plugged in

Repairman1981 :

voltage doesn't have to be unplugged

Repairman1981 :

And 50 is normal till the ignitor gets to temp

Customer: Never replaced valves only board
Customer: It will be much easier to read voltage on top valve if I could unplug it. Is that ok?
Customer: Big metal frame in way otherwise
Repairman1981 :

WAIT hold on ..... I definitly have you mixed up with someone else

Repairman1981 :

So you have ONLY tried the hi-limit button and replaced the board?

Repairman1981 :

and that is all?

Repairman1981 :

Lets start from scratch on this then

Customer: Yes that's why I wanted u to run thru a series of tests with me
Repairman1981 :

Lets start by unplugging the machine

Customer: Done
Repairman1981 :

then lets test the resistance of both solenoid coils

Repairman1981 :

what resistance do you have on each? You have to unplug the wire for resistance test

Customer: Ok one sec doing front lower coil first
Customer: 1873 ohms on lower valve
Repairman1981 :

1.8k is out of range .... this is just a coil of wire .... should read around 50-100 or so

Repairman1981 :

1800 is a bit much ... you might have a break in that one

Customer: Trying top one but hard to get at
Repairman1981 :

yep

Repairman1981 :

I wish I had better support from LG I am literally working off memory and a parts diagram .... no wiring diagram available from them nor tech sheets

Repairman1981 :

I have however fixed hundreds of them ..... I wonder how I got you confused with another guy .... I must have been working with 2 different gas lg dryers this week on here

Repairman1981 :

The other guy replaced the valve after the solenoid burned up and then it still wouldn't light

Customer: Holy shit it's open!
Customer: Open resistance
Repairman1981 :

definitly bad

Repairman1981 :

Replace the gas valve

Customer: Let me double check the top again
Repairman1981 :

I am really sorry on the board, I could have SWORE you had changed the valve already

Repairman1981 :

and that is why your only getting 50 volts

Repairman1981 :

the top is primary, power goes through it to the secondary

Repairman1981 :

5221EL2002A is the part number, same place should have it in stock

Customer: Top is open and bottom is 1877 ohns
Repairman1981 :

NOT an easy change out but you should be able to do it, might have to move that metal panel

Repairman1981 :

the bottom is out of range but will probably still work, the top is bad

Repairman1981 :

The coils are made into the valve, so you have to change the valve you can't just change coils like a nice ol maytag

Customer: Damn!! I can believe it
Repairman1981 :

what?

Customer: After all this it is the valve itsekf
Customer: Is that normal?
Customer: For the coil to go bad????
Repairman1981 :

Like I said man .... I'm REAL sorry on the board thing, if you have a break in the circuit 50v is normal ... chances are you had 90v from the board before, it just wasn't making it through the top coil

Repairman1981 :

Normal .... everything breaks .... I see it a lot you could own a dryer 10 years and it never break .... who knows normal or not

Repairman1981 :

They do break though

Repairman1981 :

I have put on over 10 of those valves just me alone

Repairman1981 :

Keep that old board ... chances are it's good

Customer: Any test we do further to make sure everything else is ok?
Customer: Test voltage to top valve maybe?
Repairman1981 :

can't that coil has to work for the ignitor to open the gas flow

Repairman1981 :

if you have a new board that will be fine

Repairman1981 :

Whether the old board is good or not is a tossup but I would bet is it

Repairman1981 :

personally if I were in your home I would stop here, change the valve then proceed. You might wanna buy an ignitor ... all the short cycling you have done could have damaged it

Customer: Wait when I plug it in and start the machine the coil does cone on
Repairman1981 :

and it's hard to test

Customer: Ignitor coil i
Customer: Mean
Customer: Part number for ignitor coil?
Repairman1981 :

5318EL3001A

Repairman1981 :

Don't just install it .... it is returnable if it isn't opened

Repairman1981 :

They don't take anything back once plugged in and they do check

Customer: Should we check voltage at plug for top valve?
Customer: It should be over 50 , right?
Repairman1981 :

it won't be there till the ignitor is glowing and with the coil out of the circuit I can pretty much guarantee you won't peg 90v

Repairman1981 :

the coils are a load that the ignitor increases voltage to when the amperage is right

Customer: Ok one sec
Repairman1981 :

If the amperage isn't right it won't .... also the voltage won't be 90v UNTIL the ignitor is hot

Repairman1981 :

So you have to leave you meter there 30sec to 1.5 mins.

Repairman1981 :

BRB I have to run in a house .... test it if you want

Customer: Ok
Customer: Testing now
Customer: Interesting
Customer: The voltage is around 22 then the coil gets red hot and the voltage goes up to 51 volts then the voltage goes back down when the coil goes out., it cycles
Customer: See my test results
Repairman1981 :

yeah you should be fine, under load that will be right

Customer: Ok thanks that valve looks like a real bitch to get at!
Repairman1981 :

yeah it isn't as bad as it looks, but it's not very easy either.

Repairman1981 :

It does just unbolt and unhook and your good

Customer: Ok
Repairman1981 :

Lemme know if you need anything else on it. Thanks!

Customer: Will let u know how it turns it out
Repairman1981 :

Please do and once you get it running, PLEASE don't forget to click accept and leave feedback,

Repairman1981 :

I have spent a LOT of time on this one. Thanks!

Customer: Ok so I installed the new valve and it works! The gas turns on and the flame ignites but it only stays lit for a few seconds and then it goes out. It cycles every few minutes. Is that normal?
Repairman1981, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 4548
Experience: 7 years Repairing Appliances, Factory Trained in Several Major Brands
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