Hi,Welcome to Just Answer, My name isXXXXX will be helping you with your appliance issue today.
does this still start and turn? or is it completely dead now?
Thanks for replying, Bryan. I'll reply to your question when I go to my ex-wife's
cottage in a few hours.
David from Honolulu
Am at ex-wife's cottage now. I was wrong when I thought I didn't reconnect the
door wires and the machine does run very well and stops when I open the door so
those are the yellow and white door wires that are okay.
Only thing machine does not heat and I turned it off after five minutes before
I heard the beeping sound and the machine stopped by itself because the burnt
solder smell makes me think it's harmful to run the dryer now.
My exwife reports that the dryer wasn't drying (not heating up) just around the time
the tumbler belt broke and I assumed that once the tumbler was tumbling the heater
would go back on but obviously not.
I suspected maybe the switch is bad so I tried differetn settings but they all act
the same -- tumbler tumbles perfectly now that I changed the belt, but no heat.
Without heat, this dryer isn't going to dy.
Can you help me? I already gave you the model number, right?
Awaiting your answer at my ex-wife's house. David from Honoluu
Noonish Hawaiian time.
Video address you gave me didn't work so I went to Utube. They say open the front
of the dryer and the heating element is on the bottom right under the tumbler. Is the
picture you provided the exact one for my particular model of Maytag dryer? I've
overstayed my welcome at my ex-wife's home but tomorrow (thank God it's sunny
in Hawaii and we rarely use the dryer ) I'll return and remove this heating element and
you can then teach me how to test it using a multmeter that I will purchase from Radio
Shack (a battery tester won't do it, right?)
I have a question -- I saw on the internet that lint accumulated in machine will cause no
heating, but from the back vent I see that it is clean. Would lint accumjulate in the
heater someplace where I can't see it? Email you later. Dave.
Bryan, I purchased a Radio Shack multi-tester so I'm all set to go and I've been looking
at all the UTube shorts about the dryer problem where the dryer tumbles perfectly
but doesn't heat up at all. I admit I didn't notice if the Heat Element (The giant resistor
that produces the heat) was on the bottom right of the heater or in the back of the
tumbler, but I plan to check with the multi-meter set on ohm-meter if there is infinite
resistance when I put the black on one of the Heat element's two sockets and red lead against the body of the resistor (the cover) itself. It should be infinite because the cover is to insulate it. f I get an indication that there is a short I'll report to you and you can teach me how to unshort it so I don't have to purchase a brand new Heat Element for a hundred dollars in Hawaii. According to internet, it could still be fuses or thermal shutoffs but right now the Heat Element looks like the most likely suspect. One question: If i detach the Heating Element completely from the machine and measure
the resistance using my multimeter what should the total resistance of the heating coils be? I know if it's infinite, it's broken and really needs to be replaced but at any point
please correct me if I'm wrong. You're the xpert and I'm only a wannabe fixit man.. Email u tomorrow. thank you. David from Honolulu
Just out of curiosity, Bryan, and you don't have to go to the trouble of taking apart a
store dryer and measuring to reply if you don't know it offhand, but another test I want
to run after I test for shorts is to remove the Heating Element from the dryer and
simply set my probes on the two connections and see if I read infinite ohms which
would mean the resistor is broken somewhere or if there's no ohms at all --
now I'm confusing myself, but 1) what is the normal amount of ohms of such a
heat resistor and 2) should I measure it when it's in the can or removed from its can
covering? Also, 3) how many ohms should a fuse or thermal shutoff have? 4) What is
the difference between a fuse and a thermal shutoff? Please reply by the numbers.
Later I'll ask you how many fuses and thermal shutoffs I have, and where they are
but I dont' want to overload you at this point. You might think why go to all this trouble
when you're sure the problem is the Heating Element, but if the fuses and thermal
shutoffs are cheap enough I can purchase them all with one trip to the appliance part
store which I have to block ten blocks back and forth to get to, and it's good practice
for me to examine the fuses and thermal shutoffs as well.
I know this step might be unnecessary when all I should do is test for shorts by
putting one lead on one connection and the other on the can's body and repeat with
the other connection, but I want to do everything I can before I purchase a hundred
dollar heat resistor, unnecessary as they may seem to you.
It's good that you're delivering meals to your mother. Is she in a nursing home? My
mother passed away some three years ago (I'm 67, after all), and I wish I had done
more for her when she was alive. You're obviously a good son.
David. I'll report to you when I go to my ex-wife's cottage in four hours or so.
Wednesday, February 2, 2011 5:45am , but don't forget that your day job comes
first. I got lots of tiem because I'm retired from library service (which is why my
thirst for knowledge is so obvious) and Hawaii has such good weather that we
hardly use the dryer.
Sorry to throw so many questions at you, but Question 5) Could a lot of lint be trapped
somewhere in the dryer where I can't see it? The back hole looks pretty good as does
the vent leading out of the building. I can't vacuum because my grown son is schizophrenic and the noise bothers him. Is there such a thing as a dryer lint cleanout
brush? Something that will probe deep into the dryer and catch any impacted lint.
1, if the meter reads no ohms at all the heater is bad, click this link and it shows you how to check the continuity there is a video there click on the video watch it and you'll see what I need you to do, http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Heating-Element-Assembly/484249?modelNumber=LDE5004ACW#repairHelpVideoTabs
2, you can test this without taking it out of the dryer, you leave it right in the tube and in the dryer, in the picture you can see the ceramic part where the wires connect, there are actually two of them on the can, they will have heavier wire going to quarter-inch connectors, usually red and black or sometimes black and white anyway just take one wire off is the meter like shown in the video on the two connectors if you have no continuity like it says then it's that, that white thermostat you see towards the bottom of the picture is the high limit thermostat, test that the same way pull one wire off it and test it for continuity, if you have none that's the part that's bad,
3 not really going to check how many ohms there are just to see what has continuity is all you need to check, if you watched the video it tells you how to do this.
4 the difference between a fuse in a thermal cut off is there really is a difference the thermal cut off is just basically a fuse that's the white thing on the bottom of the picturethere is also a video to test that at this link, http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Thermal-Fuse/1660?modelNumber=LDE5004ACW I will be back in just a little bit and will check your response, thanks, Bryan
Thanks, Bryan! All I need is to know how many and where the fuses are in my Maytag LDE 5004 ACH
dryer. If you don't happen to know don't sweat it because if the Heating Element is
shot I'll replace it, but would be nice to purchase every fuse I need while I'm at the
parts store because they're fairly cheap and I can kill several birds with one stone
on my bicycle trip there. Thank you. The videos were very informative and now I
know that the normal resistance of the Heating Element falls between 0 and 50 ohms.
David. I should be at my ex-wife's cottage in three to four hours and I'll report to you
then and might have even more questions, but you're really earning your pay. : )
March 2, 2011 8:26am Honolulu time
Bryan, did the secretary at Just Answer give you the diagram I attached to them?
My graphic won't attach because it's too large. Basically, part of the newly-installed replacement
belt is rubbing against each other as it loops around the idler and the rotor wheel and
it doesn't look good because in all the diagrams I've been given there is a lttle space
in between. I've tried moving the idler but it doesn't look adjustable. What to do? In
a month or so or even sooner this belt will break by friction. Dave.
Still need to know what to do about two parts of the belt rubbing againstg each
other pretty badly. Do you own a fax maachine? Thank you. david. Time now 1pm
in Honolulu at my ex-wife's cottage and will open up the dryer now.
There were three fuses around the can of the Heat Element, two of them on the
left side linked together. I took off one completely, the one that looked like the
illustration you sent me and it was "live" meaning not infinite resistance. The other
two fuses that looked different I measured without disconnecting simply by putting
the probes on both ends and they were both live so all fuses working all right that
are attached to the "can."
Next, because I could see the two wires leading to the coils of the Heating Element
peekiing through the can, I measured the resistance in the heating element and got
a live reading, about 7 ohms. This means the Heating Resistor is not broken.
Next I put the black jack of my ohmmeter (multimeter set on ohms) on the can and
the red on the inner wire mentioned earlier leading to the coil. Infinite resistance which
is correct because the can shouldn't be receiving any juice because it's not meant
to be a heagter. I moved the red lead to the other wire leading to the other end of
the coil and got infinite resistance again.
So the Heat Element is all right, no breaks and no shorts.
All three fuses or something that looks like fuses are all right.
This is what I plan to do. No one answered me when I asked if there might be
compacted lint in the dryer and I can't use a vacuum because my son is schizophrenic
and can't stand the sound of a vacuum so I have a toilet snake that I'll use very
carefully not to break the plastic inlet from the lint trap to search for lint.
I'll report to you later on, but I don't expect to find much lint because even the back
tube on the back of the dryer is rather clean.
Now this is what I think is happening. Before my ex-wife reported the dryer wasn't
working I had jury-rigged a backflow hose leading to the building outside vent and
I suspect it was all blocked up and when I came to fix the dryer and noticed that the
belt was broken I fixed the vent and used a brand new professional, not a homemade
I suspect that hot air was getting trapped in the dryer and tripped a circuit breaker
in my brother in law's room downstairs and has been tripped ever since. That's
why even after I changed the belt the dryer didn't heat up although it tumbled
perfectly and beeped and went off. I suspect that with one circuit tripped the dryer
is only receiving partial power and that causes some overheating somewhere and
that's why it beeps and turns off by itself and I smell burnt solder.
After I check for lint using the plumbing snake carefully, I'll put the belt back on and
the fuses and put eveerything back together and phone my brother in law to untrio
the dryer and put in a test wet towel and see if the heat will go on and if it will
complete the cycle without beeping and turning itself off.
In the meantime, if you have any ideas or suggestions please let me know because
it will take me half an hour to check for lint using the snake and once I close the
machine I won't be opening it up again until tomorrow because my ex-wife doesn't
like me hanging around too long.
So which side of the belt goes against the tumber -- the ridged side, right?
Let me know if it's the smooth side.
Brother-in-law states that the circuit for the dryer had NOT been tripped but he jiggled
it off and on anyway. So I have, using the multimeter as an ohmmeter, verified that
the Heater Unit is all right and the three fuse-like things located around the can containing the Heater Unit are all closed (not showing infinite ohmage). The heating
element itself has 7 ohms which sounds right so there's no break or short. I have made sure that there is no lint buildup hiding somewhere in this dryer.
When I test-run it after all this, it tumbled beautifully and I checked the vent outside the
house and cold air was rushing out. In ten minutes, the ending beep sounded and the
dryer stopped with the test wet towel still wet with no discernible heat. I looked at the
timer and noted something interesting. THE TIMER HAD PROGRESSED HALF AN
HOUR IN TEN MINUTES GOING FROM BEGINNING TO END. I suspect the same
thing happened the other day but I asn't observant enough.
Tomorrow I'll not only re-test it but be watching the timer all the time. I'm curious if
it jumps all in one jump or just progresses quickly going half an hour in ten minutes.
For now, though I need more ideas from you. I have run out of ideas.
Sincerely, David from Honolulu
Wednesday night, March 2, 2011
By the way, that twenty dollar Radio Shack Digital Multi-meter was a good idea.
It's the only way to check out some of these things if they're all right or not.
But now, what to do? Am I glad you're there.
is there any way you can trace the red wire from the motor that goes to the heater and uplug that one from the heater and run the dryer (be real careful) and see if 120 volts ios comming from it? You are motor centrifugal switch may be bad, this is a tough problem to track down I think somewhere you missing half of your power to the heater, this should be 120 V coming into each side of the main wires to the heater a lot of the time the motor switch fails and does assembly other half of the 220 V to the heater which means it won't heat, the dryer will still run because it only takes 120 V to run the motor side, you need to find out where the power is missing, I'm not sure what color wires you have coming onto your heater but I think it's probably a red and a black wire although it could be red and white or black and white I'm not sure with your heater tracing these is what you need to do, I did find all of the diagrams for your machine including the wiring diagrams, click this blue link it will take you to all the diagrams,
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Maytag-Parts/Dryer-Parts/Model-LDE5004ACW/3048/0151200?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=LDE5004ACW let me know if this helps, thanks, Bryan
I'm about ready to give up and press the Accept Answer so you can get paid
(I'm on the free month trial but I understand you get paid anyway) . The reason I
want to give up is I don't like measuring voltages so I'll call in a Sears technician, but
before I give up completely I am curious to know why you didn't ask me to check out
the timer that was my layman's guess. David Honolulu