There were three fuses around the can of the Heat Element, two of them on the
left side linked together. I took off one completely, the one that looked like the
illustration you sent me and it was "live" meaning not infinite resistance. The other
two fuses that looked different I measured without disconnecting simply by putting
the probes on both ends and they were both live so all fuses working all right that
are attached to the "can."
Next, because I could see the two wires leading to the coils of the Heating Element
peekiing through the can, I measured the resistance in the heating element and got
a live reading, about 7 ohms. This means the Heating Resistor is not broken.
Next I put the black jack of my ohmmeter (multimeter set on ohms) on the can and
the red on the inner wire mentioned earlier leading to the coil. Infinite resistance which
is correct because the can shouldn't be receiving any juice because it's not meant
to be a heagter. I moved the red lead to the other wire leading to the other end of
the coil and got infinite resistance again.
So the Heat Element is all right, no breaks and no shorts.
All three fuses or something that looks like fuses are all right.
This is what I plan to do. No one answered me when I asked if there might be
compacted lint in the dryer and I can't use a vacuum because my son is schizophrenic
and can't stand the sound of a vacuum so I have a toilet snake that I'll use very
carefully not to break the plastic inlet from the lint trap to search for lint.
I'll report to you later on, but I don't expect to find much lint because even the back
tube on the back of the dryer is rather clean.
Now this is what I think is happening. Before my ex-wife reported the dryer wasn't
working I had jury-rigged a backflow hose leading to the building outside vent and
I suspect it was all blocked up and when I came to fix the dryer and noticed that the
belt was broken I fixed the vent and used a brand new professional, not a homemade
I suspect that hot air was getting trapped in the dryer and tripped a circuit breaker
in my brother in law's room downstairs and has been tripped ever since. That's
why even after I changed the belt the dryer didn't heat up although it tumbled
perfectly and beeped and went off. I suspect that with one circuit tripped the dryer
is only receiving partial power and that causes some overheating somewhere and
that's why it beeps and turns off by itself and I smell burnt solder.
After I check for lint using the plumbing snake carefully, I'll put the belt back on and
the fuses and put eveerything back together and phone my brother in law to untrio
the dryer and put in a test wet towel and see if the heat will go on and if it will
complete the cycle without beeping and turning itself off.
In the meantime, if you have any ideas or suggestions please let me know because
it will take me half an hour to check for lint using the snake and once I close the
machine I won't be opening it up again until tomorrow because my ex-wife doesn't
like me hanging around too long.
David from Honolulu
So which side of the belt goes against the tumber -- the ridged side, right?
Let me know if it's the smooth side.