Appliance Repair Questions? Ask a Technician for Answers ASAP
So the display is totally blacked out? Do the buttons respond with any noise or anything?
I will require your model and serial number by the way.
During “Live Chat”, I noticed your status was listed as “Offline”. When a customer is offline, I exit from live chat and change our conversation to Q and A mode. While the answers will not be instant, working with me is still simple. You merely need to check your email for a response from me. Please be descriptive as possible and please pay close attention to detail if I request model or serial numbers. Please be aware that 50% of the time, a multi-meter will be required to diagnose your product. With my help, we’ll get you fixed up in no time. Please reply here at your convenience. Be aware that I do have a day job and that I will not be online to answer questions until the evening Monday through Friday. Weekend times vary. Looking forward to helping you solve your problem.
Well, you've requested live chat. You're offline so this might be difficult. Just reply at your convenience. If you can't get me, try during the evenings. I'm not online through the day.
Where can I find the model and serial number?
If it's a range, pull out the drawer and it'll be behind there on the frame. If it's a wall oven, open the door, it should be on the frame there somewhere.
model #: jgbp79bew1bb
serial # XXXXX
the screen is blank and the buttons do nothing, no noise or anything
but the stove top works and the oven night light and oven light work as well
Ok. I want to check something quick. Some of these ovens have a feature called sabbath
I want to check if yours has one, if not, the board is bad. Give me a few.
alright, let me know what I need to do
Press bake and broil at the same time for five seconds and tell me if anything happens.
Ok, was trying to see if it was in a special black out mode.
If your display is dead you'll need a new control board
about how much does that cost to get fixed?
The part is No longer availab.e
so if the display is dead I need to get a new oven?
GE shows it as NLA and none of the vendors I use carry it and also list it as NLA. You can take the part number and look around the web. It is WB12K19
The display is dead because the board is bad. The manufacturer no longer offers the board for replacement.
Please don't be mad at me, I'm just the messenger.
ok, I appreciate the help
I'm sorry.. Look around the internet. Someone may stock it, but your chances of finding that part are slim
It stinks and I truly feel bad for you.
Let me check one more place
I have a solution
Go to www.searspartsdirect.com and order WB12K19R It is your board, reconditioned.
I don't usually recommend a recon board, but since the manufacturer lists it NLA, you don't have another option really.
So..... That's good news :)
ok, so its this recon board or a whole new oven right? I just want to make sure I know all of my options
It lists for about $179
Yes, that's about it my friend
Sears is the only place that carries old reconditioned boards. That's why I thought to go there last minute.
cool, thanks again
There is a disclaimer that if the part isn't available, you'll be notified within 6 days. I guess the only good news for now is that you have a working stove top. Since the clock/board doesn't control that portion, I guess every cloud does have a silver lining.
so i need to get that and have someone come install it? yeah, and I have a toaster oven I can use
You can install it.. Just a few screws and there may be some instructions. If you don't feel comfortable doing it, a professional appliance repair shop can help you for sure.
You will have to remove your old plastic overlay
cool, I can do that. sounds like a simple replacement
Just use a hair dryer to warm up the adhesive... then it'll peel off and you can reapply it.
Do this when the board is out
Good luck partner. I hope that you can get the part :)
will do, any other tips?
That's about it. Unplug your stove... that's about all.
I mean, when you're doing the repair
yup, well have a great night
Thanks for your question.
If you're satisfied, please click the accept button. Thanks and have a good night.
Justin - I got the board already but it doesn't look like the right one. My oven has 4 buttons in a square on each side of the clock and the up/down temp buttons underneath the clock. The board I got in the mail has 8 buttons across the bottom below the clock and only one on each side of the clock. Also, do I go in through the front in order to change out the control board?
Please let me know if I should proceed with the replacement or return the new control board.
Just because the buttons are there, they are hidden by the overlay. Relist your model number so I can double check the part is correct.
The part that came in as a reconditioned part might be different. That's one issue with reconditioned parts. Sears parts said that's a valid sub part, so if it isn't a good part, you'd need to take it up with Sears. Like I said, Relist your model number, make sure the numbers and letters are all correct and I'll double check.
model # XXXXX
I go in through the front correct? undo the screws and alan wrench screws on the sides?
hi Justin, sorry for bugging you again, im sure youre plenty busy
You ordered WB12K19R from Sears. That is the correct part (or should be)
Go in from the back
Not from the front
If the part doesn't work, you'll have to let Sears know it doesn't match your application.
ok, the back. i see 2 screws at the top, is that my entrance point?
The rear panel will come off. It's usually more than two screws. I don't know how many on this. Every model is a little different. You'll have to be behind the range to do the repair.
sorry, im a little confused. everything on the back seems to be riveted on
should i use a wrench or will there be screws?
The rear panel right behind the console. The screws are usually on the back panel
Can you see this?
i see the diagram yes
The clock goes in from the rear. I hate to tell you I'm not sure, but I'm not. Unless I'm with that exact model, they all come apart a little differently. Try removing the light cover on top to see if that helps. 99% of the time, the screws run through the back panel cover.
See part listed 204 on diagram. That's a screw... going in from the rear.
about how much would it cost to have someone come do it now that i have the new board?
is it piece 106 i need to remove to get in there?
Every service company charges different rates. The company I belong to charges 60 to come to the home, 25 labor. Yes, 106 has to come off.
Hang on quick. I need to address something.
Ok, sorry about that.
no prob, the piece on my unit that looks like 106 has rivets or something, not screws. should i remove it with a wrench?
I'm sorry, I cannot answer that. I've never used a wrench to get to a control board and I've never had to remove rivets. If it's helpful, get behind the appliance, take a digital picture of the rear of the appliance so I can see what you mean. Use the tree icon above this text box to post your picture.
Every clock I've ever replaced, (hundreds) has been done from the rear by removing a rear panel. Unless it's a wall oven.
Are you standing behind the appliance?? If so, look at the left and right side of the console... there should be 1/4" hex head screws there.
You're saying wrench, so I assume you see a hex head. I call them screws though. If they're 1/4".... Yes, remove those.
can i turn off and unhook the gas so i can pull it out further?
then we can talk while i do it instaed of climbing in and out of the small space
yes, they are hew heads
That's a personal call if you want to. I'd just say stick with it and I'll be around if you need help.
Just reply back when and if you need help. The rear panel though, you might need to push up on the bottom while pulling out on it... You'll see.
im going ti upload a pic in a sec
those 2 black hex heads on the left? remove those correct?
There are two screws right there, yes.. those on each side
ok, remove those, pull off the back and replace the control board...
Then put your fingers, palms up in the space between the two silver panels. Push up with your fingertips as you pull outward.
ok, ill let you know if ihave more questions
Right, as I said, if the overlay stays on the old board, you'll need to use a hair dryer to heat up the overlay to exchange it to the new board.
Take your time with that
By the way, you're not bugging me. I'm here to help. That's why I do it :)
underneath the top silver plate are two more hex screws on the right
Ok, you might need to remove the lower panel then. All these models are just a little different. Usually on your model, I take out the four end screws, push up and pull out on the panel and it comes off.
All I can say is keep taking out screws and you'll get it. As dumb as this sounds, even with 15 years experience, I still have to do it sometimes.
I know I'm not being really helpful. I can't do the repair for you online though lol. I'm trying to help but it's tough since I'm not there.
As long as the end result is good... that's what matters.
i understand. any recos on someone to call in chicago to do it? my fiance will kill me if i mess something up
I know no one in Chicago.
I live in PA
Look, if you removed those screws, if you push up really hard on the bottom of the top panel and pull out with your fingertips, it should come out.
I've worked on a hundred stoves like this, they all come apart that way.
Unless it's one of the weird ones.
i took the other panel off, now i can get to the extra hex screws
Sorry, I had another question.
there are 2 hew screws in the corners on the bottome of the silver plate
real pain to get to
LOL welcome to my world
and i all have is a big wrench!
Really? You don't own any multi drivers? They have 1/4" bit ends.
Screw drivers that have multiple tips you can change out.
ah, the angle wouldnt work
i got one off! the panel is on its way off
So you need a small 1/4" wrench. Knock on a neighbors door.
Those small ratcheting wrenches are great. I use mine all the time.
Just think, if you fix this, you'll be your wife's hero
Alright. take picture of the wires, so you remember. Pull the wires off.. Unplugged I hope? There should be a few screws holding the clock on.
yup, about to post the pic
You don't need to post it.. just for your reference. lol
Compare the clocks.. sometimes GE will have you change wires on relays.. but not always.
i dont really know what thet means...
The black box looking things on the control board.
Just tag or write down your wires so you remember where they go.
do the wires toward the bottom of the panel just pull out?
Wires with the terminals on them pull off. Needle nose are helpful.
the old board is out!
is there anything else I should be doing while I have the back open? Cleaning or anything?
i replaced it, i can plug it back in and check it right?
Sorry, I dozed off
Yes, plug er in
i plugged it in and it lights up!!!!!!
Good job my friend.
just put the panels back on right?
oh i am so excited...im in culinary school so I will need to know how to do this when I own a place
Yeah, unplug it while you do that and test it out. Glad I was here to assist you a little.
i apprecuate it a whole bunch
My pleasure. Glad you got it worked out.
Anything else for you then?
I'm glad that recon part was available. Now your wife will think you're a God.