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So the side wired to the wall has 120 and the side from the heater relay on the board shows nothing?
This is unhooked I assume
You have checked resistance of the heater, replaced the thermistor and cycling thermostats correct
Have you by chance checked power into the machine to verify you have a good 220v across l1 and l2?
always start there on a dryer that tumbles but doesn't heat
Yes, I have checked the continuity of the entire circuit and have 220v across 1 & 2.
Then you have a bad relay/ board
However, I have only 120V at the heating coil to ground.
have you unhooked the wires and tested?
You could have 120v from either one
This model pulls 120v from motor centrifugal switch and board
If you test hooked up you don't know which isn't working
Either you have a bad motor or a bad board
have you checked either for a burn mark?
I didn't see any burn marks from the front, but haven't pulled off the back to get a better look at the motor.
The thermistor will normally keep the board from closing, but if you have replace that then ...
The motor usually won't "look" burned unless you had a fire
but if I remember correctly (don't have the tech sheet pulled up) the purple wire is off the motor centrifugal switch
If you don't have 120 to ground on it with it unhooked bad motor
you know the motor has power since it's spinning
Yes, it is spinning and the side coming from the motor has the 120V. It is the line coming from the board/relay that doesn't
have any voltage.
then you have a bad board .... that is all it can be
I wouldn't suggest trying to do board level repair for liability reasons, but that is really all it can be
Probably just the relay but I would suggest buying the board
If you know how to replace the relay go for it, but I can only guide you like the manufacturer would have it repaired with factory service
Can I bypass the board (by short the wires going into the relay)?
if the relay is open (meaning 2 wires going to it directly) yes
I can only see the wires on the diagram, but if the relay has both plugged in the top yes
Most of their dryers get power from the board then send it out to the heater (no way to short obviously)
You cannot do this long term will overheat
Just to test though you will confirm the board is bad by doing so
Yes, their are two wires going into the relay. I only wanted to bypass to test to ensure th board is bad.
But power comes in to the motor out the switch to the heater
Other side power comes in to the relay and out to the heater
So .... if your sure the motor side is working then it will heat like that
If you like though it's safe to bypass you would be testing your full circuit
Could have a broken wire somewhere I gues
If you wanna send me your full model number I can look up the board for you and get you a price
OK, I'll give it a try. I suspect the board/relay. The full model # XXXXX XXXXX
Do you see a seperate heater relay on your model"/
It looks like the heater relay is seperate from the board
usually maytag builds them in ... will save you a good bit if not
Can you wait just a minute while I check if it comes off?
it will be mounted below the board not on it
It won't come off if it's on the board
Lemme send you a pic
# XXXXX says heater relay
Well, it was actually soldered on the board? It may have been a weak solder joint, because it pulled off pretty easilly!
then it was bad
You should replace the board
Anyway, I shorted the two wires going into the relay and started it up and got a good glow on the coils.
Yes, the board needs to be replaced.
If you can please look on the machine and send me the full model number
Thanks for helping me confirm.
the ayw at the end showed a seperate relay
I would like to be sure i provide the right board for you
Full model number is XXXXX
and it's not seperate like in the diagram I sent you/
Well lemme get you the board part number
33003028 is the part number,
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Have a good rest of the weekend and merry christmas
Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX Merry Christmas!