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Usually the control will not cause the whole range to shut down, what I mean by that is the light inside the oven and top burners, you checked all the wiring you said did you check the range cord connections at the terminal block in the back?
Good morning Bryan,
Yes, I have checked all of the cord connections as well as the cord itself. I have not checked the 220V receptacle on the floor but will do that today. To make the unit turn back on again all you need to do is switch on one of the burners and it will come back to life, although for an unknown period of time--it may be a few seconds/ minutes or a week, and it does not always shut completely off, sometimes the clock display will blink and only the oven will shut off once the control loses its power.
This has been extremely frustrating as you can imagine!
Yeah you need to check the 220 V receptacle on the floor, shut the power off at the box and take a look at the wiring to the receptacle, I think you have a loose wire coming from the electrical box in its causing the oven to shut down, other than that I tend to doubt its the clock itself causing this, but this helps, let me know what you find, thanks, Bryan
The floor receptacle appears to be the problem--it was full of dog and cat hair--one of the terminals even had hair between the plug blade and the receptacle tangs--not sure how insulative animal fur is but it certainly wasn't copper-to-copper! Rather than bother with cleaning it I just bought a new one ($5) and will install it momentarily.
Thanks for the extra "eyeballs".
Got any more ideas? I put the new receptacle in after cleaning the wires, cleaned the plug, cleaned and checked the cord connections at the terminal block. It seemed fine for about 15 minutes then went out just like before. There is no set pattern or "trigger" to make it shut off, it just does it. There's a little dance that I have to do with the surface unit switches and the clock buttons to get the oven to come back on if it all goes dark; if the display is only blinking then I just hit "clock", then "cancel" and we're heating again. May last 5 minutes or 5 hours, you never know. I need to find the wiring diagram and trace some things, haven't been able to find where they tucked this on in yet.
I pushed the green button already, it's asking for me to do it again. I should have waited to accept the first time, now I'm out $26+ and still no oven.
I'm thinking possibly the breaker is getting weak and is arcing but not tripping, I cant be sure though, this is a strange problem and without being there its really hard, if you look at this wiring diagram you can see that the top is independent from the clock so it makes no sense if all the wiring is good that the entire range goes out, I would have you breaker and neutral in the box checked,
I'm sure its electrical, thanks Bryan