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Hi, thanks for using JustAnswer.com. You have some issue with the incoming water pressure. Do you have regular hoses on this machine or flood safe style? These are causing a HUGE amount of trouble in the appliance world! They are stainless steel and would have been purchased separately from the washer.
Here is a link to the entire service manual. What I don't get is the E22 code is saying that it took more than 8 minutes to fill for the wash cycle. Also, not sure why the valves won't energize in diagnostic mode. Pressure hose free of buildup? Could be causing slow decrease in pressure after draining water and not allowing valves to energize thinking it is full. This is a weird one, for sure!
I ran the to6 test, it ran perfectly, e then foam level, then normal level, overfill level, pumped out and returned to to6. Is the air pressure to the water level pressure switch ambient pressure? When I test for 120 Vac at the valves during the to8 and to9 tests, if there isn't 120 Vac what would you suggest being the next step in testing?
The air in the line is ambient until it starts to fill and then the air pressure increases from the volume of water. The switch is really 3 in one - foam, main level, and overflow. I'd run it not in a test mode but just a normal wash and see if you get 120 volts AC to the solenoids ( set on warm water ) since it always seems to pass the service mode tests. If no water comes in - unplug machine and using the resitance scale of your meter check from the red to yellow wires to the pressure switch , and from the yellow ( Y-14 ) to the orange - you should get NO reading if the machine is empty of water > If you show these switches are closed ( you get a low or 0 ohms ) these switches are closed
When you turn on the machine the foam part of the switch should be CLOSED and the other two OPEN , the machine should fill to the foam level which is about 3/4 deep in the center of the tub and tumble begins, as the clothes absorb water , the tumbling will pause and then the main part of the switch ( which is open) lets water in until the water is about 1 1/2 inches deep and then the main part of the switches CLOSES. Note that the foam part starts out CLOSED , the main and the overflow part start out open then the foam part OPENS and the main part CLOSES ( the overflow should never CLOSE unless the washer overfilled
Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX what your saying about the switches. Under a normal wash cycle selection, the cycle starts out normally, but it seems somewhere right in the middle of the wash cycle the machine stops, the error code sets and the machine shuts off. Don't you feel the inability of test mode to8 and to9 have something to do with this problem? Let's say during the wash cycle the valve doesn't open letting the rinse water in, won't this cancel the cycle and create the problem I have? What would the odds be that both main control boards were defective? It seems that the control board shouild let the tests work properly, and give the proper signals to keep the wash cycle going and not setting code 22. I will check that small air hose, is it pretty easy to get to?
Not sure why the relist due to inaccurate information....I sent you the service manual with advice to check the pressure hose, same as above....but okay. Thanks for helping him out Tom, I appreciate it...good luck.
My last comment as I step aside is looking at the connection points and wiring harness for issues. Unlikely to need a 3rd control.