I have a GE clothes washer WBVH6240FWW, it has a error code 22, in the testing mode it fails test to8 and to9, the cold and hot water valve tests, when you activate the tests it just beeps twice quickly, all the other t tests perform perfectly, two different technicians have replaced the water control valve along with trying two main control boards. It still sets code 22 and will not complete a wash cycle. It also doesn't seem to dispense the liquids properly either, both technicians have given up and said to buy a new washer, any suggestions?
Water control valve, two main control boards.
Hi, thanks for using JustAnswer.com. You have some issue with the incoming water pressure. Do you have regular hoses on this machine or flood safe style? These are causing a HUGE amount of trouble in the appliance world! They are stainless steel and would have been purchased separately from the washer.
They are the normal hoses, not flood safe style, remember this machine has worked properly for 5 years, and just started acting up. Also all the other test functions pass flawlessly, including the fill tests for sensors empty, foam, normal, overfill and then drain. The commands seem to work properly for them, the valve opens, fills the tub quickly, etc. It just won't activate the to8 and to9 hot and cold water valve tests, and every time you try and do a normal wash, it stops in the middle of the cycle and sets a error code 22. During the to8 and t09 tests, what voltages are you supposed to have when the appropriate solenoid is activated? Maybe this could help troubleshooting? I'm a Master Auto tech and deal with alot of electronics so this should be something we can figure out. I just don't understand why the other technicians said they couldn't figure it out and just buy a new machine. Also what water pressure is needed, I can see if any water problems in my area have just recently occurred.
Here is a link to the entire service manual. What I don't get is the E22 code is saying that it took more than 8 minutes to fill for the wash cycle. Also, not sure why the valves won't energize in diagnostic mode. Pressure hose free of buildup? Could be causing slow decrease in pressure after draining water and not allowing valves to energize thinking it is full. This is a weird one, for sure!
The hoses are nice and clear, I unhooked them and drained into an adjoining sink, flow is unrestricted and powerful, thanks, XXXXX XXXXX have the entire service manual. When trying to energize in diagnostic mode, does the two quick beeps indicate anything? This happens immediately when you press the start button to activate the test. Could the wiring harness from the control board to the water valves be a problem? I see in the wiring schematic that the board sends out signals to the cold and hot water valves seperately, what should the voltage be from the board to the valve? Hard to believe that both replacement control boards are bad and a third needs to be tried. It shows that on the control board p5 is the supply for the hot and cold water valves along with the dispenser motor, is this also used for diagnostic mode? p2 shows it also is involved with the water valves and dispenser motor along with other features. Any electrical troubleshooting, (resistance, voltage, grounds, etc) I could be checking? Is the inverter control board involved? Thanks.
Relist: Inaccurate answer.
The voltage to the hot and cold solenoids is 120 volts AC. Have you run the t06 test - this is the water level control test. Since you've replaced the control board and the water valves , you've verified the water through the hoses is adequate , the only thing left that comes into play for the water fill is the water level pressure switch, which may simply be that suds have got into the little hose that feeds air pressure to the switch , which has been a fairly common problem
I ran the to6 test, it ran perfectly, e then foam level, then normal level, overfill level, pumped out and returned to to6. Is the air pressure to the water level pressure switch ambient pressure? When I test for 120 Vac at the valves during the to8 and to9 tests, if there isn't 120 Vac what would you suggest being the next step in testing?
The air in the line is ambient until it starts to fill and then the air pressure increases from the volume of water. The switch is really 3 in one - foam, main level, and overflow. I'd run it not in a test mode but just a normal wash and see if you get 120 volts AC to the solenoids ( set on warm water ) since it always seems to pass the service mode tests. If no water comes in - unplug machine and using the resitance scale of your meter check from the red to yellow wires to the pressure switch , and from the yellow ( Y-14 ) to the orange - you should get NO reading if the machine is empty of water > If you show these switches are closed ( you get a low or 0 ohms ) these switches are closed
When you turn on the machine the foam part of the switch should be CLOSED and the other two OPEN , the machine should fill to the foam level which is about 3/4 deep in the center of the tub and tumble begins, as the clothes absorb water , the tumbling will pause and then the main part of the switch ( which is open) lets water in until the water is about 1 1/2 inches deep and then the main part of the switches CLOSES. Note that the foam part starts out CLOSED , the main and the overflow part start out open then the foam part OPENS and the main part CLOSES ( the overflow should never CLOSE unless the washer overfilled
Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX what your saying about the switches. Under a normal wash cycle selection, the cycle starts out normally, but it seems somewhere right in the middle of the wash cycle the machine stops, the error code sets and the machine shuts off. Don't you feel the inability of test mode to8 and to9 have something to do with this problem? Let's say during the wash cycle the valve doesn't open letting the rinse water in, won't this cancel the cycle and create the problem I have? What would the odds be that both main control boards were defective? It seems that the control board shouild let the tests work properly, and give the proper signals to keep the wash cycle going and not setting code 22. I will check that small air hose, is it pretty easy to get to?
Not sure why the relist due to inaccurate information....I sent you the service manual with advice to check the pressure hose, same as above....but okay. Thanks for helping him out Tom, I appreciate it...good luck.
Okay the pressure hose is clear, again when you are in diagnostic test mode to6, the level checking it tests perfectly, the cold and hot water valves get the 120Vac when commanded to allow water in, they will not test properly in the test mode to8 (cold) and to9 (hot), NO 120Vac go to the valves in this test mode like they should. I still think the inability to test is connected with the Error 22 fault. Like I said above the machine will go through approximately half of the selected cycle, then stop with like 38 minutes left and set the Error 22 code. Should I try a 3rd control board? I'm running out of ideas. Thanks, Bernie.
My last comment as I step aside is looking at the connection points and wiring harness for issues. Unlikely to need a 3rd control.
So the washer always starts out OK but when it gets to where it would be rinsing is when the problem begins. On rinse it is only cold water - so start out with selecting a cold water wash and see if the problem starts right from the get go - see if you are getting 120 volts to the cold solenoid every time it should fill. In the meantime I'll give GE tech line a call and see if this problem has come up with them.
Thanks, I'll do that check and get back to you.
First - the new boards have eliminated the t08 and t09 tests - that's why you're getting the beeps ( the t06 test performs this test so it was redundant ) Here's what is most likely the problem - machine starts out OK but when it pumps the water out at the end of every cycle IF the drain hose is pushed too far down into the standing drain it can create a siphon effect and then when it begins the next fill water comes in but is being siphoned down the drain and so it is taking longer then 8 minutes to satisfy the water level control for correct amount of water - stops and gives eror code E22 So be sure the drain hose is not stuck down into the standing pipe over 3 inches , there is a gap around this pipe ( not sealed shut with tape or caulk ) and the pipe is at least as tall as the washer.
Curious to know the results of latest info I sent.
If my answers were satisfactory please hit the accept button - it's how I get paid.
Tom, sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, but I had an emergency over the weekend. I found the drain backing up just like you said, the drain hose was installed properly, less than 3 inches, but the drain line seemed to be backing up. I ran the hose into an adjoining slop sink and ran 2 loads without incident. I'm going to try it tonight after work, and if all is still okay, I'll let you know for sure and accept your answer. I'm confident you were correct. Thanks for the perserverence. Bernie.
Good to hear. Sometimes the simple things are overlooked . Looks like you put a lot of parts and time in that weren't needed. live and learn
32 years servicing major appliances and hvac equipment