BOSCH DISHWASHERMODELSHE 44C
The machine will go through the was cycle until it gets to 1 minute and it will continue to run for hours and will not finish and pump the water out. If I hit the cancel and empty it will pump out the water. it seems like the unit is not hot like it used to be when the cycle ends. does this unit have some device that makes it run until a temp is reached before shutting down. It does not mater how hot the water is going to the unit, it will do the same thing. also seems like it does not clean like it used to.
Hi, thanks for using JustAnswer.com. The solder connection on the heater relay at the control board has likely opened up and is not allowing the heater to energize, causing all of your problems. You can replace the control or resolder it if you are comfortable doing that. I can guide you either way if you tell me how you would like to proceed.
do I pay only if your diagnoses is correct and this soulves the problem. I have repaired many electrical devices, alternators, motors, ect. I would like to solder the connection if that is the problem. where do I look for this connection problem.
You only pay if you feel I have given you satisfactory information. I may be spot on and you might think I'm just a jerk, so you can choose not to pay if you like! That's the beauty of this site, you are not bound by any certain criteria, just whatever your heart tells you! lol
Now, on to repair...remove all T-15 torx screws from around the door, including the two on each side near the top that hold the control panel on. You will need to pay attention on how it all comes apart for reassembly. I have pictures if we need them, so don't panic. Once removed, you will have access to the main control and will need to remove the plastic case to access the trace side of the board. Be sure to remove power from unit before disassembly!
ok now i have the power off and the top plastic panel removed along with the lower white steal door panel is loose. what should i do now
You should be able to unsnap the plastic protective case surrounding the control. These can be a pain to get off as they are attached at the factory and sold with the new control. Once off, you can remove the board for repair after disconnecting wires.Edited by Town & Country Appliance Service on 9/23/2010 at 2:30 AM EST
what area am i looking to find the connection that i need to solder.
On the back of the board where the traces are. All solder connections are on the back, it should be quite obvious if it is burnt. They usually take out a small portion of the trace and need to be bridged to make certain of a good connection. The heater draws pretty good amperage.
found the burnt area and the pin that is not soldered. I am having a hard time to tell where the trace need to be bridged to. I looks like there are 3 solder points on the trace shaped like a triangle.
Sometimes they burn pretty violently and are not repairable. You should be able to see which pin it goes to, just look for the burned trace and bridge it if possible. Great job on locating it!
Can you post a digital pic and I can show you?
See if the above link helps at all....
I guess you are back up and running given the post that you have located the failure. If you feel the information you received is of value, I sure would appreciate an "accept" to compensate me for my time and instruction that has obviously gotten you to the repair point.
Highly accurate diagnostician with over 30 years experience!
soory it took me so long to reply. just want to say you did an awsome job in walking me right to the problem and letting me know my options for repair. I did solder the connection and bridge it to the other one. the board was burnt at the relay.
I have been having some fraud on my credit card so hopfully this goes through for you.
I do appreciate your help and you are definetly worth the fee.
let me know if the cc does not go through.
Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX appreciate your generosity. Good job on getting it soldered together! Hopefully it will last a long time for you....thanks again.