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nope. you read it wrong. I never said that. Please re-read my reply from 1:48pm
. I replaced the MAIN CONTROL BOARD.
This is what you do take a pair of needle nose pliers and squeeze all the connectors to make it tight fit on the board paying close attention to the P4 connection on the control board.
William. I checked all connections once more at all contact points on the MAIN control board. Everything was very snug. Even though its a new MAIN control board I installed I'm still getting the F40 after I hit the button for it to start a cycle. I can hear a "click" in the circuit board as the error code comes up. I also found two thermodiscs/temp switches on the hot air duct and unplugged them and tried them as well as tied them to each other to bypass the switch function to see if that was causing the issue. Still...F-40. I also got a low side but acceptable ohm reading on the blower motor. The MOTOR CONTROL also is NOTgetting 120V.
Since you have a volt/ohm meter and are comfortable using it then there are a couple of things you can check yourself to try and pin this problem down.
The F40 error is a communication error which means the main control W10111616 is not communicating with the motor control part number(NNN) NNN-NNNN Most likely neither control is the problem but since the main control was replaced we know it's not the problem.
The key to diagnosing this problem is to check voltage to the motor control. There is a black and white wire going to L1 and neutral. If there is 120 volts to the control and the blower motor is not running then the(NNN) NNN-NNNNmotor control is most likely at fault.
It is more likely you will not read voltage there. Use extreme caution checking live voltage and only do so if you're comfortable and confident using a volt/ohm meter.
If there is no voltage to the motor control and the main motor doesn't run the thermal fuse can be at fault or the main control which was replaced and didn't help.
From the description you give I believe the main motor is running when you get the F40 code so the thermal fuse and main control are most likely okay.
If there is no voltage to the motor control then the problem can be a fuse link that may be open preventing voltage from getting to the motor control.
This part is not the thermal fuse and is not listed in the parts diagram or even shown on the wiring diagram. The fuse link is most likely the cause of your troubles. If the inline fuse link is open you will have to replace the entire wire harness. The inline fuse link is not available as a separate part.
I would recommend a technician replace the harness.
The best move now is to check voltage to the motor control while trying to run the dryer. Use extreme caution. Do this if your comfortable with your do-it-yourself abilities