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I have a Frigidaire Custom Imperial Flair electric range, Model

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I have a Frigidaire Custom Imperial Flair electric range, Model #: RCIB 645-2, Serial #: 44C 47563 R. I need one (1) bottom oven element for the right (larger) oven. Can you help me find one?
Submitted: 5 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  master appliance tech replied 5 years ago.
you will have to call Frigidaire. or you can take the old part out and bring it in to a appliance parts store and they should be able to match one up for you.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I forgot to mention that Frigidaire was the first place I started. I don't think I talked to anyone, but rather corresponded via email. Their response was that "that item (or model) is discontinued". It was a standard response, I got the feeling.

Why would an appliance parts store be able to match the element? After all, the stove's a mid-60's model. Are you saying that there are standard element sizes, and this conforms to one of them?

Gary
Expert:  master appliance tech replied 5 years ago.
Yes the place where the wires go is what changes.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
OK, now I need to try in earnest to pull out the element. Right after it quit delivering heat (several months ago), I wiggled the connection to see if it was simply a matter of a loose one rather than a burnt-out element. I gave it a tug but it didn't budge. I left it at that; it was summer, and we weren't cooking much.

Now that it's 24F out, however . . . priorities have changed!

Anyway, I'm not sure it's the element yet. My thought is to turn the oven on and test the voltage across the two plug terminals once I pull the element. If there is a voltage difference, then I'll know it's the element that's kaput; if not, then I have another problem diagnosis on my hands.

Gary
Expert:  master appliance tech replied 5 years ago.
good luck
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Yeah, thanks.

I SHOULD have added this question to my last message: Is that what you'd recommend (testing the voltage)?

Or do you have a better idea?

Gary
Expert:  master appliance tech replied 5 years ago.
o what you should do is test the element for ohm if it has ohms then it is good then test the element to see if 240vac is getting to it if not then you have to trace the wires as some times they short out or fest for 240vac coming out of the control if it is there then you would know you have a bad wire some where.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
OK.
I can test the element's resistance, too . . . I just don't know where the ohm reading should fall to indicate that it's OK. Do you?

I would think that a burnt-out element would have infinite resistance, wouldn't it?

I guess a fuse (inside the stove) could be blown. But everything else works, and I kinda doubt that each element would be separately fused.

Gary
Expert:  master appliance tech replied 5 years ago.
the element should not have infinite resistance. i don't know the number it should show but it should show some. probably not a fuse. maybe a thermal fuse just for the bake.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Sorry, I was off for a while tending to frozen stuff; we've having record cold here, and unusual things are happening to our landscape and water features.

I did pull the lower element today and run the tests. The results:
receptacle voltage: zero with the control turned on
element resistance: about 10 ohms (on one of the scales, forget which)

So, the element isn't burnt out. I will have to test the element control switch and anything else in the circuit between it and the element. Only problem now is access: This unit runs from floor to the ceiling cupboards, through which runs the integrated exhaust fan. I have never gotten into that area. There's a photo at http://easterkiwi.wordpress.com/frigidaire-flair-for-sale/ ; except there are cupboards directly above the vent at the top, which has ductwork running through it.
Expert:  master appliance tech replied 5 years ago.
i think the control panel comes off on the front. but here is your new problem almost any other part on that is going to be no longer available. there could be a thermal fuse or a plug some where that is messed up along with the wire. that could all be fixed/ bypassed/ but if the control is bad then your going to me out of luck.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Do you have access to a wiring diagram for this range? If not, I will have to search for one.

The wiring for this larger oven is complicated by its being optionally controlled by the clock, as well as the normal thermocouple that keeps it near the temp setting on the dial control.

As you turn the control on, there is a click that occurs right away because the oven is cold. If the oven were warm, it would click at a higher temp. That must be the thermostat. Does that click tell you something about whether the temp control is working or not?

Gary

Expert:  master appliance tech replied 5 years ago.

no any thing older than 2000 you pretty much have to find it on the unit.

 

no it doesn't tell me any thing. with out being there i cant find out whats going on. if the clock is bad you might be able to find some one to rebulid it. that is unlikely tho.

 

i think you need to ether call some one out that can run test needed to tell you what is wrong and the part is no longer available. or you can run test your self checking power hear and there tell you find out where the power cuts off out. and finding out the part is no longer available. i have searched the clock and it is telling me that it is no longer available.

 

 

sorry it might be time for a new set up. but if you must keep this look for an older appliance repair shop.

master appliance tech, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 1797
Experience: 6 years+ in home service own and operate my own in home appliance repair company
master appliance tech and 3 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
OK, it's been a few days . . . but I hope your holidays have been good.

The problem of finding a broken component has been at least deferred to a later time.

While studying the wiring diagram, I saw a black box labelled "Cookmaster" in the circuit containing the control and the element. I went to the range to see what that was and discovered it's the name of the clock / timer / meat temp sensor cluster; you can use it in various ways to automatically control . . . the large oven! The tiny little selector was set to OFF rather than MAN or AUTO! Evidently someone had turned it a notch by mistake, since we NEVER used it in almost 20 years.

The upshot of this episode is that nothing is broken--a nice Christmas present in itself! Of course, something will eventually break, and I should in the meantime find out how to get behind the instrument cluster so that I can replace broken components.

Meanwhile, have a good New Year!

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