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John
John, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 26795
Experience:  Appliance repair business owner for over 43 years.
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Kenmore Elite dryer runs for a couple minutes then shuts down,

Customer Question

Kenmore Elite dryer runs for a couple minutes then shuts down, even on air-dry. I've vacuumed and blown all the lint out of it--no change. Re-pushing the start button after shutdown may get it to run for an extended time. What part do you suspect? Dryer is 110.64972300.
Submitted: 5 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  John replied 5 years ago.

Hi thanks for the question.

When you first start the dryer does the motor give a growl then start.

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Growl then start? Nothing out of the ordinary.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
A $129 motor--Oh my!!! How confident are you with this answer?
Expert:  John replied 5 years ago.

Well the growling before it starts , The cutting out because its too hot.And wont restart.

I will check for a cheaper one for you.

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
The problem may still be the motor and I will replace it if necessary but you mis-interpreted what I said. The motor starts with no more complaint than it ever did, even when new. Also, it immediately restarts when the start button is pressed and may even run for an extended time.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
OK, that was wierd. The dryer just restarted on its own, ran 30 seconds and quit.
Expert:  John replied 5 years ago.

Well I cant see what would cause that.I will opt out .

Another tech will pick it up.

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Scratch that last clue/symptom. The wife had the dryer on Wrinkle-guard III and it was doing its thing at the end of a cycle. Very misleading and I apologize. Still need to know your best shot at a reason for the stoppages. Is there some way to test the motor? I have had the lower front panel off for cleaning. How does one go further to gain access to the motor for replacement?
Expert:  John replied 5 years ago.
The top has to come up.Theres a spring clip at each corner.Use a screwdriver and push in at the clip.This should release the top.Then a few screw holds the front on.Take the belt off first.Then pull the drum out.Now you can turn the power back on and start the dryer and let it run with no heat see if the motor gets warmer as it runs and if it does cut out.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
OK. This is going to take some time. I'll get back to you later.
Expert:  John replied 5 years ago.
Take your time.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I took the front off, belt off, tub out, shorted the door open wiring, propped up the belt tensioner and started the motor running. 65 minutes later the unloaded motor was still running smoothly and the motor frame was just barely too hot to hold my hand on--probably a normal operating temperature? Loading it with the belt and tub would undoubtedly increase that heat some but, overall, the motor seems pretty OK to me. Anything else I should check while I have the internals exposed?
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I think I will call it a night and get back to this tomorrow morning.
Expert:  John replied 5 years ago.
I agree Im calling it a night
Expert:  John replied 5 years ago.
Dont use the wrinkle guard and see what happens.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Next morning and the dryer is still laying around in pieces (to the wife's dismay). Let's review the possibilities by order of parts:

Heating coil and associated limit switches--the dryer heats so the element works. The heat duct is clean so lint build-up should not be a problem. The dryer has not been used all night and still has the belt and tub off. I start it up on medium heat, the element glows and motor runs for 30 seconds and everything shuts off. I blow air through the heat duct to cool it, turn the heat control to no-heat and restart the dryer. It runs for 20-30 seconds and shuts down again. The motor is still cold to touch and no heat from element was involved. Fifteen minutes later I restart the no-heat test and the motor continues to run like everything was OK. My take on this is that the heat-limiting switch was not cooled off on the second run even though the metal heating element shroud was. How do I test the two heat sensors?

Motor--It was cold to the touch on the second short run so a motor thermal overload switch was not the problem that time. It runs smoothly when requested. What constitutes the "locking" circuit when you push the start button? Is that the mechanical centrifugal switch or is it electronic? Is there any way the locking mechanism can drop off if the motor is still powered?

Timer--Do you know of any timer problems that can cause this unexpected stopping? E.g., the door switch can stop everything and the heat-limiting switch can stop everything. Does the timer (in a non-stop position) ever drop the power to everything?
Expert:  John replied 5 years ago.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=11064972300&=part+number

 

You have a complicated dryer.

There is a control board on your druer that can cause this problem.

Look at the top and console parts you will see the control board.

It also has a sensor at the front of the dryer that is in play on the wrinkle guard.

Did you try the dryer without the wrinkle guard.

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
This morning's tests were all done without wrinkle-guard.

In your experience, is the control board, thermostat or thermal cutoff on the heating element duct, thermistor or thermal fuse on the blower housing the more likely to fail?
Expert:  John replied 5 years ago.
No none of those parts can cause the problem.The reason I said the control is that your wife said that the dryer started by itself while we were talking.That control board will also not let the dryer keep on going when the start button is pushed.There is also a sensor at the front of the dryer.Just at the door opening.But my thought is the control.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
The dryer starting itself was a functioning Wrinkle-guard at the time. It has not done that when the wrinkle-guard was off.
I see a power relay for $40, timer for $73 and a control board for $92 on the parts listing. I believe you mean the control board (ouch). What is the proper approach to opening the upper cabinet to reach that board?
Expert:  John replied 5 years ago.
John, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 26795
Experience: Appliance repair business owner for over 43 years.
John and 5 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I am going to call this help item to a close with an "Accept". I will take your advice about the electrode even though I can't see much wrong with the existing one. You've been good help getting me up to speed on this appliance and I have a priority assigned for parts replacement as a result. It is too bad there is not an online troubleshooting manual available that does step-by-step fault testing...but then, that is what you guys are, right?

My last trip here was for a Jenn-Aire side-by-side temperature control problem. The advice was to clear the ice from the cooling fins on the freezer side and that did the job. I have a feeling I will be back with the next appliance problem.
Expert:  John replied 5 years ago.

Its a hard one to diagnose being electronic and the problem.

Thans and good luck.

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