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Eric
Eric, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 244
Experience:  Factory/company training at MAJOR retailer, now owns and operates an appliance repair business.
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I have an electric stackable Maytag dryer model no mde6700

Resolved Question:

I have an electric stackable Maytag dryer model no mde6700 that has now stopped heating. For the last several months at times it would not heat up when started buton most occasions it would work just fine. Now the heat elements will not heat up at all. Otherwise the rest of the dryer works. I have had a friend take a look at it and he thinks it is the relay control which costs around 175.00. I am not so sure and would like a second opinion before proceeding with having it fixed.
Submitted: 4 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Eric replied 4 years ago.
Hello! My name is XXXXX XXXXX I am happy to help you today!
This may be a silly question, but you did not indicate whether or not you also checked for continuity of the heater element itself. Did you? Also, there are TWO thermal safety devices which could cause this on the heater box you said you just checked the cutoff. The cutoff itself (rear of box) and the high limit thermostat (center, between elemnet terminals and cutoff) must be checked. Finally, if those ALL check ok, have you attemptd to run the machine with the vent DISCONNECTED from the machine to see if you have heat? Please advise and we will move on.
Thanks!
Eric
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Hello Eric,

 

My name isXXXXX we checked continuity of the heater element. Pardon my lack of terminology as I do not have description of the parts. He took off one lead of each of what I believe to be the thermal safety devices and checked continuity on both, all was good. Once you take off the front panel of the dryer they are located below and are next to each other. One has a yellow/white wire and the other a blue/red wire attached to it.

 

Yes we tried without the dryer vent attached....

 

The dryer is just over two years old and is at an aparment that is not used very often. It may have been run 20 times in the last two years....

Expert:  Eric replied 4 years ago.
Awesome. Thanks for your response Keith!
Ok. Once again, just to clarify, are you SURE you are measuring the devices on the heater box and not the airbox? Reason is because I am looking at your wiring diagram an it looks like you measured the thermistor (blue and red) and the safety right next to it (yellow and white) . Its good that these are ok, but there 2 more which are more likely to be your problem ON THE HEATER ITSELF. I have included a diagram to help you . They are at picture index 11 and 52 ON the heater housing assembly itself, number 41. This assembly is NEXT to the one I believe you are measuring devices on. Please check them. The cutoff (most likely culprit) is in the REAR of the box, and the High -limit thermostat has black and blue wires going into it. The heater has two blue wires going into it, which you already checked. You may have to REMOVE the heater box to gain good access to the cutoff though, thats pretty easy by removing the FRONT mounting screw for the entire box, then lifting UP on the box and pulling OUT.

graphic
Eric, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 244
Experience: Factory/company training at MAJOR retailer, now owns and operates an appliance repair business.
Eric and 8 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Eric.

 

The heater coils reads 10 ohms and both the cutoff and high limit thermostat read continuity when checking with a fluke?

Expert:  Eric replied 4 years ago.
Thanks!
Well, if you have tested everything correctly that we have talked about and you are SURE about your results, and you are SURE that when you checked your power input from your supply , you had 120VAC from L1 to neutral, 120VAC from L2 to neutral and 240VAC between L1 and L2, Its control board time because there is a relay (black and blue wire) that has likely failed. But, PLEASE do one more thing which you may or may not have already done : Check at your power terminal block (where the power cord goes into the machine) VERY carefully for loose connections because all it would take for this to happen is a loose L2 connection to cause these EXACT symptoms, even though the machine is running fine otherwise, and this possibility WOULD be progressive in nature like you said it was, but a failing relay will ALSO be progressive in some cases so CHECK CAREFULLY. L2 is ONLY connected to the heater circuit on this machine and NOTHING ELSE.
Thanks!
Eric
Eric, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 244
Experience: Factory/company training at MAJOR retailer, now owns and operates an appliance repair business.
Eric and 8 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Eric,

 

I have put the machine all back together and plugged it into the dryer recepticle at my home. I have a Kenmore which has the same plug for this dryer I have at the apartment. The dryer still does not heat up so I will go ahead and order the control panel as I feel confident with all the checks.

 

I have lost all faith in the quality of major appliances that are available on the market. I have a Kitchenaid refrigerator and dishwasher at my home that would have cost me thousands of dollars in repairs if it wasn't for extended warranties. This January I purchased a Sears washing machine and dryer for my home and have alredy had to replace parts on the washing machine two months after it was put into service. And now this Maytag dryer which is just out of warranty on the controller, which has been used 20 or so times and has no lent build up in or around the machine.

 

All the appliances are somewhat top of the line. I guess the only way to safe guard against the junk that is put out on the market is by costly warranties.

 

Thanks for the professional help and I will let you know if this solves the problem,

 

Regards,

 

Keith Diebold

 

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