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Eric
Eric, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 244
Experience:  Factory/company training at MAJOR retailer, now owns and operates an appliance repair business.
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I have a new 279787 replacement motor for my Whirlpool gas

Customer Question

I have a new 279787 replacement motor for my Whirlpool gas dryer. The new wiring instructions state that I new two red wires from the main harness and they need to be connected to terminal 1 (1M) and terminal 2 (2M). I do not have any red wires coming from the main harness. My yellow wire coming from the belt switch does not have a location called out on the sketch. I am replacing a(NNN) NNN-NNNNmotor, Please help.
Doug
Submitted: 4 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  The Home Smithy replied 4 years ago.

HiCustomer

Please check the model number. It is not showing as a good number at the Whirlpool tech site.

FYI Your unit is made by Whirlpool. Sears does not make any of their own products. Thank you.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
The dryer is a Sears Made by whirlpool Model number 110-76954690.
Expert:  The Home Smithy replied 4 years ago.

Ok are you getting the model number from the unit, or a users manual. If it is from a users manual please check the number on the manufacturers lable. It is usually diffrent. One number is XXXXX Sears number (usually from the manual) and the other is a Whirlpool number (fom the manufacturers tag on the unit)

Thank you.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
The number 110-76954690 is from the inside of the door on the Sears dryer. The othe number is XXXXX the replacement motor that was bought from a appliance repair for sears and whirpool along with others.
Expert:  The Home Smithy replied 4 years ago.

Ok thank you for confirming that for me.

I cant figure why I cant get the darn wireing diagram from the tech site??!!

Normally i would just call in but they are not there on the weekends unless I want to pay a higher price for that service. =-/

At this point I will opt out and this will open the question up to other experts to answer. Sorry for the inconvinence.

Best, THS

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
At this point are we at a stand still until Monday or are you going to be contacting others about my problem, does a opt out mean you are done with my problem?
Expert:  The Home Smithy replied 4 years ago.

It means that I do not have the answer. There are other experts that may have the information you need. It may take a little time as they may be with other customers at this time. I refered the question to another expert that I believe knows this unit. If he doesnt reply soon I will rattle another experts cage.

 

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX be waiting.
Expert:  John replied 4 years ago.

Hi see if I can help you with this problem.Do you have loose wires to the old motor and now you have this connection on the new motor.

 

 

http://www.partselect.com/PartDetail.aspx?Inventory=334287&imgID=4&SourceCode=7#RepairStory

 

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
I do not have any loose wires the connections are good, I do not have red wires coming from the main harness, the relay does come in when the start button is pushed but the motor does not hum or try to start. It may be because the motor wiring change left me with no power to the motor.
Expert:  John replied 4 years ago.
So you have the same hook up as the other motor hadis that right.And why did you replace the motor was it because it would not start.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
The other motor would run the drum without any load on it. As soon as even one wet sheet was placed in the dryer the drum would stop turning. It was hard to turn the drum by hand. With the belt removed, you could not turn the motor by hand
Expert:  John replied 4 years ago.

http://www.partselect.com/PartDetail.aspx?Inventory=344958&SourceCode=7&ModelNum=11076954690#RepairStory

 

Then I think what happened is the thermal fuse blew when the motor was causing you problems.The fuse is at the back on the air duct.You can join the two blue wires together to see if its failed.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.
I had the burner turning on which told me that the thermal fuse had not opened up. ( wires are red and red/white)
Expert:  John replied 4 years ago.
That was then how about now did you check it or just assume its ok.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
That was the last thing I had done before asking for help. I trust it is still the same.
Expert:  John replied 4 years ago.
You said that when you push the start button a relay comes in but no motor where is this relay located.And i would check that thermal fuse again just to be sure We don't want to go places to try and find this problem without knowing for sure.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Gray and black /white motor relay 69819 located next to the heat relay on the back of the panel on the top of the dryer
Expert:  John replied 4 years ago.
You do have the belt on the motor and the idler pulley right.Because it does show a belt break switch for that model.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
yes I have the belt with the grooves on the shaft of the motor with the spring pulled back on the white pulley so that it makes the micro switch contact closing the yellow ( short wire ) and the blue wire ( from the switch to the overload on the motor as shown in the drawing of the wire hook up on drawing 279788-c
Expert:  John replied 4 years ago.
well the parts that are the usual problem have been checked.the door switch, The thermal fuse. The belt break switch.On your model you have a electronic control. I cant tell you how to check that part.So I too will opt out sorry.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
The electronic control (microprocesser) is functioning. when on air only, the burner does not come on. Upon powering up the display is FP which is off after selecting a type of dry cycle. All the componets on the board are in good shape and the edge connector is in tight.
Expert:  Eric replied 4 years ago.
Hello! I will take a stab at this , assuming that when you say you have "checked" all of the items the other techs have reccomended, you checked them with a meter, not just verified MECHANICAL continuity. Based on what I have read from all of the above posts, you should now have power between 1M and 2M when you press the start button. If this is true, then I would check that there is a connection between (from memory) 4M and the bare terminal of the thermal protector ON THE NEW MOTOR. BUT,I know there were some instructions for connecting the protector to some of the the old style wiring involving REMOVING a connection from the new motor (blue jumper) and connecting something from the original harness to the NOW BARE connection of the thermal protector. If you can upload your wiring diagram, we can get this figured out. You would use the icon on your Just Answer interface that looks like a green tree. You can upload pictures, documents and any digital material you feel relevant and we'll get this thing going. Also, did your ORIGINAL motor have all exposed single terminals or did it have a plastic connector ? The instructions are very detailed for conversion, but they are based on what the OLD part # XXXXX you siad yours was a(NNN) NNN-NNNN but that is NOT a part number, but a manufacturing number so there will be no reference to that one in the instructions. Your OLD part # XXXXX a(NNN) NNN-NNNNand THOSE are the conversion instructions you should be following.
Thanks!
Eric

Edited by Eric on 10/24/2009 at 9:08 PM EST
Expert:  Eric replied 4 years ago.


*******EDIT TO ABOVE POST *******


Sorry, when I said "you should now have power between 1M and 2M when you press the start button"
I meant the wires for 4M and 5M. My mistake. Also,if I remember correctly, you wont have 2 large red wires from the original harness (goes to 1M AND 2M on new motor) because those are for the heater through the motor switch and you have a gas dryer , but I can't remember what they ACTUALLY were. Finally, are you coverting from the motor on the left TO the 279787 on the right in the picture?

graphic

Edited by Eric on 10/24/2009 at 9:35 PM EST
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Eric, I would like to continue this troubleshooting later, I need to copy the drawing and send them to you.
New motor = Whirlpool Corp. instruction Sheet 279788 Rec. C 8/97
279787
The Technical Service Data Part No.(NNN) NNN-NNNN Page 1 and Page 8
Old Motor #(NNN) NNN-NNNNbr />The image that you provided is ok for the new but not the old.
Expert:  Eric replied 4 years ago.
No problem. That is what I wanted to clarify. The diagram was simply to find out what motor you WERE replacing with the 279787 because while(NNN) NNN-NNNNmay be stamped on the motor itself, that is NOT the part number for the motor and never was. For your model, the original should have been a (NNN) NNN-NNNNwhich subs directly to the 279787. The numbers stamped on the motors are usually NOT the part numbers for the motor, but manufacturing numbers stamped on the motor that are useless or NEARLY useles for the purposes of identifying a replacement part number. I know for a fact you have the correct sub, 279787 but I am just trying to make sure we end up on the same page as far as the CONVERSION. If your original had a plastic connection for all the terminals, usually they need little or no modificaton for the sub part. Usually just a matter of removing or installing a jumper from 4M to the cutoff on the motor then direct plugging the new motor. With BARE wire conversions, thats where it CAN get tricky, but its pretty straight forward and I am happy to stick with you on this as much as I can.
Take your time and Ill talk to you when youre ready at a later time.Also, I had edited my statements a few times and I just want to make sure you had seen all of the edited ones.
Thanks!
Eric.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Eric, I am giving you the numbers from the The Technical Service Data Part No.(NNN) NNN-NNNN Page 1 from the drawing as the motor number. As I said the motor is just about the same as the old one. I do not want to bypass the belt switch and would like to know what connector 1,2,3,4,5 or 6 the yellow wire from the belt switch connects to. terminal # XXXXX has two tabs, Is that the right one?
Expert:  Eric replied 4 years ago.
You still have not answered my question about whether you are able to simply plug the motor connector into the new motor (plastic) or if you are dealing with bare wire terminals. This is important

Unfortunately, those numbers dont do me much good in terms of getting that document. I am looking around the shop for an old copy now. I believe you should connect the belt switch to terminal 4 or 5 but without the document I cant be sure. Remember, if there is NO connection between terminal 4 to to thermal cutoff on the motor, or any power connection on the bare (left?) terminal of the thermal, the motor CANNOT RUN.



Edited by Eric on 10/24/2009 at 10:56 PM EST
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Sorry Eric, This is my last note for tonight. We are leaving for a party. In reference to your knowing if we are dealing with bare wires NO. they are all terminated on a edge connector.
Thanks, I will read your responce when we return.
Expert:  Eric replied 4 years ago.
Have fun at the party Laughing . Now, based on all you have tried to say here, this should be very simple if we are on the same page here. If you havent changed any of the wiring on the original connector, it should plug directly into the NEW motor. That is what I am assuming you have, since you have not said otherwise and you said your terminals are all connected to a connector block. Look at the NEW motor. There SHOULD be a BLUE JUMPER WIRE between 4M and the THERMAL PROTECTOR . If SO, REMOVE IT, then PLUG THE NEW MOTOR IN . If NOT, plug the motor in and there SHOULD be a BARE terminal on that thermal protector. Connect the wire from the BELT BREAK switch to the BARE TERMINAL on the THERMAL PROTECTOR and the dryer should run when the door switch is closed and the belt break switch is closed. It is impossible for it NOT to run if EVERYTHING stated in ALL correspondence above has been followed and you have power to the wires at 4M and 5M with those switches closed (unless the new motor is bad) .
Thanks!
Eric
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Dear XXXXX, The problem started with my wanting to know where belt brake switch yellow wire with a tab on it should be connected ( about 5 inches long ) goes. The blue wire is located on the tab as mentioned (Connect the wire from the BELT BREAK switch to the BARE TERMINAL on the THERMAL PROTECTOR) No blue jumper wire is between 4m and the thermal protector.
Expert:  Eric replied 4 years ago.
??
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Eric I did not know you were on line! Hello
Expert:  Eric replied 4 years ago.
Hello! So what's happening?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Dear XXXXX, The problem started with my wanting to know where belt brake switch yellow wire with a tab on it should be connected ( about 5 inches long ). The blue wire is located on the tab as mentioned (Connect the wire from the BELT BREAK switch to the BARE TERMINAL on the THERMAL PROTECTOR) No blue jumper wire is between 4m and the thermal protector.
Where shall I connect the yellow wire? Thanks, Doug
Expert:  Eric replied 4 years ago.
As I have been trying to tell you, there are TWO terminals on the thermal protector on the motor. One of them connects to a wire that goes down inside the new motor coils.This one stays where it is and should be left alone. The OTHER one should be either BARE , or have a BLUE wire connected to it which is ALSO connected to the motor switch, which is also part of the new motor, usually on terminal 4M. Could be 5m, but it doesnt matter. you need to remove that wire if it exists and discard it, then connect the main harness connector to the motor, then connect the yellow wire from the belt break switch to the bare terminal.
What seems to be your trouble?
Thanks.
Eric


Edited by Eric on 10/26/2009 at 1:23 AM EST
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Please let me send pictures and we will finish from there. Thanks, Doug
Expert:  Eric replied 4 years ago.
ok
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
graphicgraphic
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
graphic
Expert:  Eric replied 4 years ago.
Thanks for the picture Doug! The first one helps but the wiring diagram is too small for me to read without distortion, but thats ok.
That blue wire one the thermal protector should be going to one side of the belt switch and the yellow one is coming from the other side, correct? If so, connect the yellow wire to the terminal on 4M. Remember to look at the terminal numbers on the motor switch itself, as 4m is actually near the middle. when you remove the main harness connector, you should see that there is a place to put the yellow wire that will be covered by the main connector when you plug it back in. Try that and it should work.
Eric
Eric, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 244
Experience: Factory/company training at MAJOR retailer, now owns and operates an appliance repair business.
Eric and 4 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
graphic
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Eric, I have already placed the yellow wire on the second tab behind the # XXXXX on the main card, The relays come in but the motor does not start. I will test voltage again tomorrow. Thanks,
graphic
Expert:  Eric replied 4 years ago.
What main card are you talking about and what are you doing with terminal 6 ????? All you have to do is provide a path for current from the blue wire on the main connector, through the belt switch, then to the thermal and you will have a complete circuit. This is done by connecting the wires from the belt switch the way I told you. It really is that simple. TERMINAL 4 is where you need to make that connection. terminal 4, when covered by the main connector, has a light blue wire over it in the main connector.Terminal 6 on the motor switch is for the heat circuit according to your wiring diagram, and is a normally open switch operated centrifugaly. It will not make the dryer run.It closes when the motor runs and allows the heat circuit to operate.

Edited by Eric on 10/26/2009 at 3:40 AM EST
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
Eric, I should have said the edge connector for the motor, not card, Now that I can place yellow the wire on terminal 4. That I think will work. I will check in the morning and be happy to accept after the functional test. Thanks your great!
Expert:  Eric replied 4 years ago.
No problem. It should work like butter!
have a great night!
Customer: replied 4 years ago.
This message is for Eric, Thanks for your help! I just put everything back together and tried the motor out. Yes, it does now run. the key was the location of the short yellow wire from the belt switch. I was out of town and had no chance to try it out. This afternoon was my first chance to get to it. Thanks again Doug (keep up the good work)
Expert:  Eric replied 4 years ago.
Not a problem Doug!
Im glad it worked! Its been my pleasure helping you and have a great day!
Thanks for using our service!
Eric

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