How JustAnswer Works:
  • Ask an Expert
    Experts are full of valuable knowledge and are ready to help with any question. Credentials confirmed by a Fortune 500 verification firm.
  • Get a Professional Answer
    Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.
    Ask follow up questions if you need to.
  • 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
    Rate the answer you receive.
Ask Eric Your Own Question
Eric, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 244
Experience:  Factory/company training at MAJOR retailer, now owns and operates an appliance repair business.
Type Your Appliance Question Here...
Eric is online now
A new question is answered every 9 seconds

we have a Kenmore Elite HE3t washer. we just purchased it.

Customer Question

we have a Kenmore Elite HE3t washer. we just purchased it. we plugged it in and it worked fine, it washed a load but we did not have it leveled good enough. So we leveled it with it plugged in. now we have no power, even after checking the electrical outlet and breaker. Is there a reset button we can push?
Submitted: 7 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Eric replied 7 years ago.
Hello! My name is XXXXX XXXXX I am happy to help you today! I am assuming that the machine appears to be completely dead with no lights, sounds or anything.
Unfortunately there is NO reset of any kind on the machine but something may have come loose on the CCU or interface when the machine was out of balance and vibrating excessively (I am assuming that is why you needed to re level it). if you are SURE that your outlet has 120VAC available and you have tried plugging the machine into a completely different circuit JUST TO BE SURE, you must remove the top by removing the three screws in the back of the top panel and checking the main controller (CCU) connections and the user interface board connections. If you have a meter, you can check the output of the line filter which is the first thing you will see connected to your power cord on the INSIDE of the machine. This supplies filtered AC power to the sensitive electronics in the machine and should be 120VAC at the output. Unlikely that circumstances leading up to this problem would have damaged this but its the first thing INSIDE you should check when the machine is completely dead. There is also a tech sheet located on the BOTTOM of the washer, taped to the INSIDE / SIDE panel accessible by removing the screws at the very bottom of the toe panel. This will give you all of the information you will need to troubleshoot past the line filter testing I have provided, but many of the tests will lead you in the direction of a failed CCU or user interface. It can be difficult to determine just which one specifically even for techs when there is NO power anywhere except into the CCU, but it is the exact same information we use when we are at your home to diagnose the machine. I really believe though that you will find that something came loose inside the washer when it was moving around. PLEASE let me know if you need further information, I am happy to answer more questions if need be!

Edited by Eric on 10/19/2009 at 2:59 AM EST
Eric and other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
the guys are doing your suggestions now. If everything leads to a failed CCU or user interface, how much is that to repair? Is it even repairable?
Expert:  Eric replied 7 years ago.
The CCU is part #285924 and costs $115.00 from sears and the user interface is part #8181699 and is $135.83. In MY opinion, if the diagnosis leads to CCU or UI, I consider it a worthwhile repair because you are now talking to a tech who considers the He3 and He3T his ALL TIME FAVORITE washer because of its excellent performance, decent repair frequency and overall bang for your buck. I have been working on these since the day they came out and even compared to some of the newer models, this one was a ROCK SOLID performer. This washer model is kind of like the Windows XP of washers, if that makes any sense. Not only that, but yes, both of these possibilities are easily repairable by even the average layman. Basically just plug and play installation. Lets just hope that you find something loose inside and dont have to spend a dime! Money mouth


Edited by Eric on 10/19/2009 at 3:36 AM EST
Eric and other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
So far we see nothing that is loose. We've checked all the obvious parts that are plugged in. We also tried a another plug in, something we hadn't even thought of. We don't have a meter and won't be able to get one till tomorrow. Is replacing the parts something we could do ourselves? Esspecially if you talked us through it???
I'll push accept now, you're answers have been wonderful. If we can't repace the parts ourselves, what would you charge? Just so we can have an idea. Next time we have a question, can we ask for you?
Thank you.
Expert:  Eric replied 7 years ago.
The BEST indicator of a failed CCU being the problem instead of a UI is that if you are SURE you have power to the machine and out of the line filter and there are no loose connections AND you do NOT hear a small "CLICK" from the CCU when you plug it in, this usually means the CCU has failed. There is a small power relay on the CCU board itself that engages as soon as power is applied to the machine, even before turning it on and you should be able to hear this every time you plug in the washer. Replacing the CCU is EXTREMELY easy. it is just clipped on to the frame in the top rear of the machine and you just unclip it with a small screwdriver inerted under each clip area on the CCU and then ONE BY ONE, remove the connectors and install them on the new board, then just snap the new board back onto the frame and thats it! Very easy. The only problem I forsee if you do it yourself is accidentally plugging a connector into the wrong port, but that is why I reccomend R/R the connectors on the CCU one by one. Then the repair is foolproof.You can accept ANY time you feel that the answers you received were helpful and you can come back to this dialog later and ask more questions related to this exact same question for quite some time and you will not be charged again unless you ask a different unrelated question, and YES, you can always ask for a specific tech for future problems but when you come back to THIS dialog you will be guaranteed to get me for this problem. As far as what I charge, when out in the field this repair would be a Tier-II rate at $127.95 + parts which would include a trip charge, diagnosis and the labor to repair, but service providers rates vary GREATLY depending on several factors. We are not allowed to solicit business from this site. I am however VERY confident that using this information you WILL be able to repair this machine.

Related Appliance Questions