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william
william, Home Appliance Technician
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Kenmore Washer stops, wont drain at rinse cycle or spin.

Customer Question

Kenmore Washer stops, won't drain at rinse cycle or spin. The 3 conditions raised in the Sears manual 853143 at "Washer won't drain or spin" do not apply (i.e., clogged drain hose, open lid, and excessive sudsing).

Good day! My Kenmore top-loading clothes washer Type 111, Model # XXXXX Serial # XXXXX was purchased in 2003 from Sears. It's been wonderful until last night. While a load was in process (washing well), it stopped as it hit the RINSE cycle, leaving the tub full and inactive. I gave it a half-hour to magically "correct itself." Advancing the Cycle Control Knob to a further setting did not help. I emptied the tub physically by removing the hoses from the wall exit and draining the tub by gravity. I re-started it (lid closed, without clothes), but to the same effect twice - washed to rinse and stopped. I've not yet removed to back panel for inspection due to my manifest ignorance. Hmm, how do I further analyze the problem? Thanks, Will
Submitted: 5 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  william replied 5 years ago.

sounds like the lid switch to me if the lid switch isnt working it will not drain and spin we can jump out the lid switch to see if thats it or not

 

 

 

 

 

If this answers your question,click accept as this is how we get paid for our knowledge.Need more info ask.bonuses appreciated. note;As I am not there this is based on your observations and information.

william, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 3033
Experience: Major Home Appliance Technician Specialist Whirpool Certificate
william and 4 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
William, how do we jump out the lid switch? I can't figure out how to remove the back panel. Is that necessary?
Expert:  william replied 5 years ago.
no thats not how you do that tell me do you see your endcaps on the control panel
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Well, standing in front, glancing at the controls, I noticed that on either of the two end corners were plastic strips about 6" long which were removable, so I removed them.
Expert:  william replied 5 years ago.
ok do you see the phillip head screws there if so take them out and flip the control panel back
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
So done. Back is exposed.
Expert:  william replied 5 years ago.
ok do you see that mulex connector in the middle where it goes into the base of the cabinet should be a 3 wire connector unplug the washer if you dont have it done allready also you will need a jumper wire unplug the connector

Edited by william on 10/3/2009 at 5:05 PM EST
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
There are two groups of wires going down into the washer box, and one is a bundle of about a dozen wires (clasped and stuck through a hole), and the other (I'm assuming is the mulex connector) has 3 wires plugged into a white or transluscent plastic receptor which in turn is "plugged" into the flat metal base which is atop the cabinet. This connector resists being pulled loose; the two small tabs on either side, when pressed inward, seen not to have a particular effect. Oh, yes, and I do not know what a "jumper wire" is. I'll continue trying to loosen the mulex, as you ponder.
Expert:  william replied 5 years ago.
i dont need to ponder but on that connector theres a little snap lever pull that out a bit and the connector will pop loose im talking about the 3 wire one

Edited by william on 10/3/2009 at 5:24 PM EST
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Yes. The 3 wire one. Not the other 3 wire one that becomes the electrical plug on one end and becomes gathered into the bundle of a dozen on the other. I'll go and see if I can identify the snap lever.
Expert:  william replied 5 years ago.
ok thanks
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Ah! On the BROAD side, that's where they were. I was fiddling on the narrow sides. Got it popped out. Thanks for the patience.
Expert:  william replied 5 years ago.
no problem now take that jumper wire and coming from the timer end not the base but insert in the 2 outside hole of the connector and make sure there in there good then plug it back in and put it into the drain&spin cycle and try it
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
What'sa jumper wire?
Expert:  william replied 5 years ago.
sorry about that get a piece of a insulated wire and strip both ends 1/2 inch back exposeing the wire the wire should be about 3 inches long then do what i mentioned
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I got an old lamp wire, pulled the two wire separate, and stripped the ends of one of those wires . But I'm not sure what todo with it. Sorry but I'm not understanding your instruction "... coming from the timer end not the base but insert into the 2 outside hole of the connector..." Re-phrasing for my simple knowledge would help. Thanks.
Expert:  william replied 5 years ago.
LOL ill try you know that 3 wire connector that you popped off thats coming from the timer put that jumper wire into the 2 outside holes then plug the washer back in and try it
Customer: replied 5 years ago.

WATER's flowing. Well, you certainly nailed that one to the wall. Get out the lye and let's get to tanning that critter. Thanks ever, William.

PS

Expert:  william replied 5 years ago.
this means that you need a lid switch you need help in finding one thanks
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I'm guessing that I could get a lid switch from a Kenmore dealer or a Sears. Hope they're not too expensive. I got to poking around and determined that the actual switch is located underneath the hole into which the striker inserts. When I jostled that switch underneath, it was loose and the skin which the striker pushes aside does not always slide back into place. Your finding a way to get around the problem was ingenious. Thanks ever.
Expert:  william replied 5 years ago.
sears wont have this you have to go to a appliance parts house or online that i can do for you and you can do this yourself

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