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Eric
Eric, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 244
Experience:  Factory/company training at MAJOR retailer, now owns and operates an appliance repair business.
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Whirlpool Duet Dryer will not start. When I push the start

Customer Question

Whirlpool Duet Dryer will not start. When I push the start button the time display shows two dashes in the center. The dryer does nothing. This problem was intermittant up until today. Would push the start button a few times and it would start. Now it will not start at all. Model # XXXXX
Submitted: 5 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Eric replied 5 years ago.
Hello my name is XXXXX XXXXX I am happy to help you!
Please try to enter a diagnostic by selecting any button except the pause/cancel button and complete the following sequence :press and hold for 3 seconds, relase for 3 seconds , press and hold for 3 seconds. release for 3 seconds , press and hold for 3 seconds, release for 3 seconds, press and hold for 3 seconds. At this point , the machine should enter a diagnostic mode and show "88" on the display. My guess is that it will not, and it will ALSO not even respond in ANY way to the keypress whatsover. if it does though, it will clear the "88" and then display any stored codes. This machine does not have very many, but Im just looking for any sign of life here. ALso, does the light in the drum consistently turn on when the door switch is pressed and off when you let go?
Im sure you have checked for that , but I needed to ask, let me know. These machines have a control board mounted on the left side, and an interface board mounted on the front console. This problem is literaly either one. There is NO way to determine which one it is, you can thank Whirlpool for that. Many times when there is still power to the interface, like you said there was since there are two dashes, but the interface does not respond, a new interface will solve the problem more times than not, but I have also seen the EXACT same sysmptom respond to CCU (main controller) replacement. I am not a part-shotgunning technician, but with these, even the tech sheet AND service manual which I have straight from Whirlpool says basically "replace one and if that doesnt work, replace the other" for this type of problem. My best advice before spending any money though is MAKE SURE all of the connections between the CCU and interface are good and verify that you have 120VAC, nothing less coming up to the CCU from the terminal block at the back of the machine. This assesment is based on the first intermittent nature of the problem wich has now matured into a permanent problem. Please let me know if you need more information.
Thanks!
Eric
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Tried the 3 second button push sequence. Wound up with nothing. Checked the CCU and it has 120 VAC. Removed all connections on both boards and reconnected. Did not help.
Expert:  Eric replied 5 years ago.
HiCustomer Thanks for the update!
Well, now you are stuck with the "one or the other" contingency. Unfortunately, like I said in the first post, there is no way to be SURE which one it is, because it literally COULD be either the interface board OR the CCU. BUT, like I said before, my experience has been than the interface replacement has been more succesful in this scenario that the CCU replacement.When I worked at Sears, we all had BOTH boards on the truck so we simply tried one, then the other if the first did not work. One possible ray of hope here though is that the electronics assemblies on your machine MIGHT be covered under warranty, even though the original 1 year all inclusive warranty may have expired. Whirlpool and many other manufacturers SOMETIMES added an extended warranty for certain parts of the machine that MANY consumers and even some techs were simply not made aware of! This WILL be listed in the warranty section of the manual or can be verified by calling Whirlpool and giving them you model and serial number. Whirlpool has EVEN been known to simply send free boards to consumers even when the board is NOT still under warranty, if they found a high number of consumer complaining about the higher failure rate. this is NEVER guarenteed though, but PLEASE check your manual for the presence of the extended warranty on the electronics and then contact Whirlpool befor wasting any money on replacement parts. I have tried to find a way to be 100 percent sure about which board to replace, but the the problem is not always a power problem in the boards, sometimes its a logic control problem on one or the other board and there simply is no other way to check for THAT possibility other than trial and error. PLEASE lete me know if you need more info on this.
Thanks!
Eric

Edited by Eric on 9/30/2009 at 4:55 PM EST
Eric, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 244
Experience: Factory/company training at MAJOR retailer, now owns and operates an appliance repair business.
Eric and 2 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I think the machine is at least 10 years old so I doubt any waranty would still be in effect. I'll replace the interface board first. Thanks for the assistance.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I think the machine is at least 10 years old so I doubt any waranty would still be in effect. I'll replace the interface board first. Thanks for the assistance.
Expert:  Eric replied 5 years ago.
Not a problem, glad to help!
Please let me know if you have any further questions on this issue!
Thanks alot!
Eric
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Eric, The board arrived today and I replaced it. I have a new problem now. The dryer now starts, runs and heats up. After one minute it shuts off and E1 flashes. Looking at the small manual that was inside the dryer that code tells me the thermister is open. I replaced the thermister and I get the same code after one minute. Both the red and black wires are connected tightly at the thermister and the heater relay on the new interface board. I made a note of which terminal had red and which had black before starting. I put them back on the same way. Any suggestions?
Expert:  Eric replied 5 years ago.
HiCustomer
Congrats on getting her running again !Sorry you have more problems though, that can happen with these ufortunately.
Grab your meter and put it on the 20k ohm scale, remove the leads from that thermistor and measure the resistance. It should be be in the neighborhood of about 12k ohms in ambient temperature (70 degrees). The resistance will go down the higher the temperature is. You can then leave the meter connected, as long as the machine connector is NOT connected to the thermistor, and run the machine on a heat cycle. It WILL generate the E1 error again because the circuit really is open but you can watch the resistance change as it heats up. It should never go open. If it does, its bad.(I know you just replaced it). Other than that, trace the wires back up to the CCU and use the continuity setting on the meter and make sue they both conduct. Also test EACH lead to ground to see if one of them is shorted. You can also do this thermistor test by disconnecting the leads from the ccu to the thermistor and check the resistance from there as well as the wiring down to the thermistor against ground, all at the same time. Other than that, I hate to say it but if the entire thermistor circuit checks out ok, you know what you have to do, and that is replace the CCU. First, remove the ccu and check to make sure there is not a bad solder joint at that connection or anywhere else on the board that may cause an open reading for the thermistor. Let me know how that all goes.
Thanks!
Eric


Edited by Eric on 10/3/2009 at 1:11 AM EST
Customer: replied 5 years ago.

I found the problem once I started with the meter. I noticed the red wire that had a white tracer on it at the thermister was not the red wire I thought it was at the interface board. I was checking the connections of the soild red on the heater relay. The correct wire was in a plug on another part of the board. The plug had fallen off the board during reassembly of the metal shield. Plugged it back in, runs great now. The wife will have no excuse not to do laundry tomorrow. Thanks.

Expert:  Eric replied 5 years ago.
Awesome! Hope it lasts a long time for you! Let me know if you need anything else!
Eric

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Eric
Eric
Appliance Technician
244 Satisfied Customers
Factory/company training at MAJOR retailer, now owns and operates an appliance repair business.