GEPSS26GRC-SSDH4164491. LED's on front panel are pulsing bright to dim about 1 second cycle. Interior panel shows "HRS". No indication of interior temps. Also a whirring noise at same frequency of LED cycle. No function of any exterior panel features, ie no ice, water ect.
Make: GEModel: Profile
Un-pluging unit. Re-starting.
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Please try this first -
Try to turn the refrigerator off. Then (even if you are unable to turn it off), unplug the refrigerator for 20 minutes and then plug it back in.
Please let me know how you make out and we can proceed from there.
Hi Bernard. Shut of the breaker to fridge. Will reset at 05 past and advise. ~M
Good. You can also try pushing the buttons on the panel (with the refrigerator unplugged) to drain any possible voltage in the board.
Bernard. No difference in symptoms. Breaker is now reset.
Pleaase post a bit more information.
How long has this symptom been going on?
If you open the freezer door, and push the door switch in, do you hear the freezer fan blowing?
Do you hear the compressor fan behind the refrigertor?
Is there still cold air blowing into the fresh food side?
Did you lose electricity to the kitchen today or yesterday?
Thank you for you patience.
48 hours ago symptoms first noticed. Fridge cooled normally today but panel was inoperative.
No compressor/fan noise when door by-pass switch engaged.
No cold air blowing into fridge.
No known power loss / surge.
Bernie: I've got to go. Will check for your answer in the morning. Thanks, ~M
The motherboards in many of these refrigerators have been known to go. If the refrigerator is no longer cooling correctly in the morning it is likely that the motherboard has failed.
GE has a list of models that they know to be problematic. I think that you have posted an incorrect model number. Is it possible that your model number is XXXXX?
The motherboard and other electronics should be checked and tested.
You should contact a GE authorized servicer because your model may be eligible (under a service bulletin recall) for a FREE new board. You may still have to pay labor charges.
If you know how to test a board you can find the board here -
It's shown as part 801.
You can get the wiring schematic by looking behind the front toe grill. Follow the diagram to the board. No power at the board means bad board.
Test the board between J7 and J8 or the black and orange wire. No voltage? If there was voltage at "line" but not between J7 and J8 board looks to be bad.
Pull the board and look for a black area behind the board. Check board for bulging parts, blacken or melted components. Does it look like the board was grounding to the case? Then the board is bad.
You can order a new board at this link and there is some useful information on replacing it here also -
Please click here -
Please let me know if you would like more information and/or clarification.
22 Years Managing Stores, Operations and Selling Appliances