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John
John, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 26795
Experience:  Appliance repair business owner for over 43 years.
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My dryer is not blowing hot air. It is running, but not drying

Customer Question

My dryer is not blowing hot air. It is running, but not drying anything. Help!!
Submitted: 7 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  John replied 7 years ago.
HiCustomer Thank you for asking your question on JustAnswer. The other Experts and I are working on your answer. By the way, it would help us to know:
-Could you explain your situation a little more?

Thank you again for trusting us with your problem. Please reply as soon as possible so that we can finish answering your question.

Please send me the Make & Model # XXXXX where is the lint filter on the top or the door
Customer: replied 7 years ago.

Whirpool Senseon Model # XXXXX

The lint filter is on the door. I put the dryer on and it seems to work, but no heat is coming out. I have tried it on all the cycles and choices.

Expert:  John replied 7 years ago.

http://www.partstap.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=502447

 

Do you have a volt meter to check for voltage at the dryer and check a few parts,Heres the breakdown ,

Customer: replied 7 years ago.
No I don't
Expert:  John replied 7 years ago.

Well we can look at a few parts ,Take the bottom panel off ,Theres a clip at each corner,I will send you some info on that dryer ,But you really need a volt meter

Home Depot $ 30.00

Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Thanks for your help, but my neighbor is going to take a look at it!!
Expert:  John replied 7 years ago.

Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:

Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # XXXXX the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # XXXXX goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm check instead.

*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.

#2-Canister for the heater element.

#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.

#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.

#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.

#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.

#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.

Look at the few parts you can ,See if the element is broken,Any burntwire,But a meter

Is so handy

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