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Tyler Z.
Tyler Z., Appliance Doc
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 56278
Experience:  7+ years being an appliance technician with factory training.
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I have a Fridgidair Model GLEB30S8ABA oven that continuously

Customer Question

I have a Fridgidair Model GLEB30S8ABA oven that continuously beeps an F1 and F3. We have lived with it so far by continuing to reset it and keep on cooking. More recently, it has been less able to be reset. I understand that this has to do with the RTD thermostat, and that the problem may be as simple as tightening the wiring at the control panel, but I do not know how to get to the control panel without destroying the woodwork around it.
Submitted: 5 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 5 years ago.
well F1 means ones thing and F3 another
F1 Electronic oven control failure Replace electronic oven control (also called EOC or clock).
F3 Open oven temperature sensor (RTD) Check sensor harness and harness connection between oven sensor and oven control. Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD) if wiring is ok.

If you are getting both errors then chances are that your control board is bad giving you and F3 error as well in addition to the F1.

The check the sensor wires then just pull the unit out and remove the back cover of the oven. Look for the 3-4" thin rod inside the oven cavity. Coming out the back of the unit there are wires attached to this sensor--- you can follow them up to the control board to look for any loose connections, but again this doesn't sound like your problem--- your clock does.



Customer: replied 5 years ago.

This does not answer the question of how to access the front panel without messing up the woodwork around the panel. I already understand the difference between F1 and F3. I wish to check the front panel connections first, because I don't believe there is anything I can do in the back other than replace the sensor, and I do not believe the sensor is bad at this point.

 

 

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 5 years ago.
well you have to pull the oven out about 12 inches to remove the control panel. This is not an easy oven to remove if you do not know how.

You need to install a small flathead screwdriver on the right and left side of the oven between the control panel and the trim (door is open)

This screwdriver will fit between the wood and the fram of the oven (left to right) and the control panel and the cavity (up to down)

Push the screw driver in about 2 inches and push in TOWARD the oven cavity to push a spring clip mounted on the wood frame. You have to do this on both sides of the oven.

While someone is pushing on the spring clips, someone else need to pull the oven out. It's hard to discribe but that's how you do it.
Tyler Z., Appliance Doc
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 56278
Experience: 7+ years being an appliance technician with factory training.
Tyler Z. and other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Can I continue to ask questions about the process of accessing the control panel, or do I need to ante up again?
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 5 years ago.
no you can ask whatever you like.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.

You said:

well you have to pull the oven out about 12 inches to remove the control panel. This is not an easy oven to remove if you do not know how.

You need to install a small flathead screwdriver on the right and left side of the oven between the control panel and the trim (door is open)

This screwdriver will fit between the wood and the fram of the oven (left to right) and the control panel and the cavity (up to down)

Push the screw driver in about 2 inches and push in TOWARD the oven cavity to push a spring clip mounted on the wood frame. You have to do this on both sides of the oven.

While someone is pushing on the spring clips, someone else need to pull the oven out. It's hard to discribe but that's how you do it.

 

I'm trying to understand this, but I don't even get the first part about pulling the oven out 12". How do I do that with my primary problem now being getting the oven away from the cabinet without messing up the wood? I'll still have further questions regarding getting to the control panel.

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 5 years ago.
Forget the first line I said. That is just an overview of what needs to happen. You need to :

install a small flathead screwdriver on the right and left side of the oven between the control panel and the trim (door is open)

This screwdriver will fit between the wood and the fram of the oven (left to right) and the control panel and the cavity (up to down)

Push the screw driver in about 2 inches and push in TOWARD the oven cavity to push a spring clip mounted on the wood frame. You have to do this on both sides of the oven.

While someone is pushing on the spring clips, someone else need to pull the oven out. It's hard to discribe but that's how you do it.

 

Customer: replied 5 years ago.

I've been trying to get back to this, but haven't had the time. You said I could continue asking questions along the same line without being charged more. A few days ago I re-read your first response and you said I could check the wiring back to the control panel, but that didn't sound like my problem, but you said my clock does sound like the problem. You have my attention now on this, but I'm at a loss as to how my clock can be the problem. If you have a realistic fix in mind, I'm all ears.

 

 

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 5 years ago.
well the clock no matter what is at least (1) of your problems. The F1 error code ONLY comes up when the control board detects and internal short in the clock board. So no matter what other problems may exist the control board is deffinately bad.

The F3 could be a result of the control board being shorted so it's throwing up a random error code even though it may not actually exist.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Are you the original respondent (just out of curiosity)? My manual says an F1 error means something other than the clock, or an internal short, and I just can't buy that internal short idea. If there was a short, the whole control assembly would be NFG. Sorry, but I can't trust you on this one.
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 5 years ago.
I am the original corrospondent. And if you can't trust what I and the book are saying you might as well solve this on your own. We are correct nonethless---take it for what it's worth.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I hope you are not taking this wrongly. You should know that I've already paid for your access information, which I have not had time to try yet. Nevertheless, I cannot trust your book against my manual, especially, when I have no clock issues. You may be right, but I'm bettting you aren't. I appreciate the response, but I cannot accept it as a viable solution. One of these days, I'm going to get into this thing and, hopefully, find out what the problem is.
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 5 years ago.
ok good luck.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I'm only replying because I've determined the problem, and I think the solution might help you help others.

 

The problem was a cold solder joint on one of the RTD sensor pins on the controller board. On that point, you were correct, despite my inability to accept it.

 

As for the access to the controller board, I think you were way off. The oven has to moved almost completely out of the cabinet in order to remove the 5 screws that hold the top on. Once the top is removed, the controller board is accessible, and can be removed by taking out 4 screws from the inside. Access to the 2 controller boards requires removing the circumferential enclosure which is not immediately obvious how to perform.

 

Small flathead screwdrivers are not needed and spring clips do not exist.

 

 

 

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 4 years ago.
ok thank you.

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