I have a fisher & paykel dishwasher - soft touch.the filter clogged and the dishwasher flooded. I used an external pump to clear all the water and then cleaned out the filters.
What is the model number of your unit, please?
Could you please elaborate on the problem you are having?
fp918td about 10 years old full height single door - electronic soft touch front panel
Ok thank you for the information.
I still need to know what it is that you are having problems with. Is the unit not working at all now, or is it something else?
When I turn the power back on I still have F1 ---- BTW I have the computer at one end of the house and the Dishwasher at the other Architect = Murphy
ok thank you. I will look this up for you now.
:-) ? Further BTW add 20 Kilos and u would look like me :-(
That should be 20 Kilos AND 20 YEARS
Ok I was having problems accessing the tech site. problem solved please stand by
Pretty pretty please
What no sugar on top? lol
Please check the model number the one provided is not showing as a good number at the F&P site.
Someone needs to shoot murphy one of these days.
Ok from what I can surmise from other sites there is a sensor at the back of the unit that needs to be dried out with a hair dryer. To access the sensor you need to get to the catch pan under the unit and dry it with a towel. Then use the hair dryer to dry out the sensor. It is located at the rear right of the unit.
Please let me know if this doesnt solve your problem.
Best regards, XXXXX XXXXX Smithy
OK will try to do that but no hope tonight --- too many grandkids here. Can I get back to you in 10+ hours???
No problem BCW. Im in California so thetre is a bit of a time diffrence but I will be around. I'll probably see you this evening (my night time- your day time).
Hi I'm back refreshed and happy. the machine has dried out or water trickled down out of the pressure switch, sensor or whatever and it is now up and running. Obviously, the filter did NOT like a half slice of pizza which one of the grandkids had left stuck on a plate. Much of the pizza base was on the main strainer but there was a lot of mushroom, capsicum, salami and onion in the various levels of the filter system. If you can come up with a reference to the service manual, that would be a help, even if it is at some time in the future. The model number is XXXXX shown on the back. There is a sticker on the frame, outside the wash chamber but inside the door. That has faded and I can get about half of it. It would be better for me to get the manual direct from NZ into Australia rather than ship it twice across the Pacific. Come back with any answer and I will hit the [accept] button so you can get paid for your trouble. XXXXXX.XXX@XXXXXX.XXX XXXXX XXXXX
Ok Ill get you the manuals from the manufacturer and upload them to a free server for your retrival. Im at lunch right now so I will have to do this after work. See if you can get a magnifying glass and decipher the sticker in the door frame. That is the number I need
Number inside the door is incomplete but what I can read confirms what I have from the back. FP918TD 87378 ALD378060 "WW EX 378060"
I cannot get any further numbers off the machine -- the door sticker starts 873 and finishes 8060. I cannot even see a "Made in ...." anywhere on the beast. It is 240Volt and made for the Australian market.
The beast went through about 30 minutes of the first cycle --- empty -- no dishes but with a "dishwasher cleaner" bottle in the bottom rack and then flooded --- F1 again --- 27 minutes left on the clock..
F&P Australian HQ confirm that the FP918TD was sold in Australia in the late 1990's - They can give me an "Owners Handbook" but will not supply a service manual or parts list.
An old Aussie made "Simpson" that we had years ago had 2 pressure switches, one an adjustable level switch High, Medium, Low for full wash, short wash and just rinse. The second was a safety cut-out. This thing would flood and never cut out. After 6 years of constant complaints, the manufacturers just gave us a new model and said "dump the old one yourself". I took the thing apart and ran it in the workshop if I had another job on. Eventually, I found that the adjustable pressure switch was falling off it's single mounting screw and shorting to the case. This put the water valve on full and bypassed the safety switch. Moving the level control moved the pressure switch and it would work free. A bolt and Nyloc nut fixed the problem. I contacted the manufacturers and got a "Thanks but this is no longer a model we support!" :-(
Would the F&P have two pressure switches, one for level and one for safety or am I better hanging on to see if you can come up with the book(let)?
I am aware of the time difference so do not panic on the reply.
Ok Brian Im back (finally) Gotta love ole man Murphy. I get to the jobsite expecting 3 pieces of drywall to repair and end up with better than 8 sections to repair. Not one cut neatly by the blasted plumbers either. Seems the boss added two more sinks without me being told. GRRRRRRR!!! Wait till he gets my bill!
Im going to go to the F&P site and get what they have on your unit, and upload them for you. Take me about maybe an hour max.
I'll post the literature as I get them uploaded
DAMN! I feel like a complete idiot!
I know why I am unable to locate your model on the F&P site. Im in the USA the accounts are based on the town you live in and the zip code. They will not allow me to access the AU or NZ data bases.
Brian I am so sorry for wasting your time. The only model numbers I have access to are US 120 volt units. I can probably find you the US equivalent but that would entail a visual search of the service manuals. No telling how long that would take. But I started this and I will finish it if you wish.
If I do find a unit like yours I can not guarentee that the electronics will be similar due to the voltage diffrences. Please advise if you would like me to proceed with the search.
Yeah - I've actually been there and done that with a 110 Volt Makita unit that some idiot brought into Australia and changed the plug from USA standard (110V 60Hz) to Australian (240V 50Hz) and then claimed warranty. He wanted the machine re-worked to run on Australian voltages at our cost --- and we did not even sell the B***ARD the unit! He even mutilated the unit ID plate where it said voltage and current!
Can I send you a photo of some part of the dishwasher that will let you know what you are dealing with?
Can we terminate this discussion (with payment) and continue it by email? You need to be paid for your time. F&P will not talk to me as I no longer have a registered business.
Town = Canberra ACT Australia
Post Code = 2605
I have service, parts, disks for Makita, Senco, Bosch (hand tools), Dremel, Hitachi, AEG, Milwaukee, Ryobi (hand tools not garden), Paslode and Metabo, all of which I used to service and I "liberated" the disks when they were superseded. These are all early 2000's and 240 Volts (except the battery units of course).
Following the fun and games with the Simpson in the 1970's I found that it was actually a Bosch 220 Volt unit (European --- 110 Volt 2 phase @ 180 degrees plus earth=neutral) which they had re-wired to suit Australia 240 Volts by leaving a floating buss at a nominal 120 V AC above earth. No wonder they "discontinued support".
If you can actually identify the F&P unit I would be grateful; VERY GRATEFUL (I.E. $). We will be out of Canberra for a couple of weeks from about 60 hours from now so if you can come back to me ASAP with the details of what you need for the ID of the unit, I will get back to you and then you can look at your leisure without pressure from me. I can get the unit up on a workbench and send you hi res photos of what you need.
In the Great Land Down Under, we are referred to as "Grey Nomads", Retirees who take the slightest excuse to leave home and see a bit more of Australia.
Time now 23:11 local (11:11 PM) so I am off to bed.
Some pictures would be great, Brian. I know that it is a single drawer/door model, but thats about it.
Ok here is how you upload them-
At the top of your reply box is a icon that looks like a tree. It is two to the right of the smiley.
Click on the icon. It will bring up a box.
Click on browse. Another box will appear.
Click on browse again in that box.
Navigate to the place in your computer where the picture is. Select it, and then in the second box click on upload.
The second box will disapear.
In the first box click on insert.
This will upload your picture, and you should see it displayed in your reply box.
Repeat the process to upload another picture.
Big change of plans. The family "do" that we were going to has been cancelled. I will be off tomorrow at 06:00 local (still dark) to drive one of my sons on a 700 Km round trip. He has just has a hip replacement (10 days ago) and owns a plant that makes roof trusses and house frames. One of his competitors has just gone belly up and there is an auction of that poor b's life dreams starting at 11:00, 350 K's from here. With pre-sale inspection.....
I have pulled the dishwasher down and found that there is a plastic foam float that sits on the base panel and if the machine floods, that float lifts and triggers a micro switch which turns off the In Valve and turns on the Drain Pump. That switch is faulty. Also the motor cap is reading low 4uF @ 400 V AC is reading either 3.2uF or .36uF to .58uF depending on which meter I use. I actually trust the meter that gives the lower reading more than the Tectronics multimeter that gives the higher reading. The drain pump works like a beaut. I am still puzzled in that I cannot see what stops the "Fill cycle".
I will try to put the photos up on this link tomorrow afternoon. I have the stylised circuit diagram which is the most helpful. I have found the "tree" icon under "show toolbar" :-)
Well Brian your "do" was cancelled and mine was confirmed. My father has been uin the hospital and we (his kids) are all going up there (Salt Lake City area) to have a pow wow and determine his fate. He had a problem with his noodle fixed and it isnt working too well yet. Most likely he will be coming here to live with me, my wife, her mother, and our cat. I am the oldest and the only one that can stay at home and work too.
Soooo How about those pics? The sooner you can post them the better chance I can answer your question before I have to do a disappearing trick.
30 years repairing appliances
Sorry to hear of your father's troubles. That trip looks about the same as Canberra --> Brisbane but a baptism is a lot more fun than dealing with a sick father. I had to put both parents into a Home 2 1/2 years ago, Mum has since died and Dad has no interest in anything. In "God's Waiting Room" to quote him.
Can I [Accept] to get you money and still hang onto the conversation?
R U There from Salt Lake City (area)?
Off to bed at 2040
C U in the Morning (AEDST) [GMT+1100] if you are back in circulation --- Family is 100% over money! That is summat that I know.
Sorrty I didnt reply sooner it has been a bit hectic herew in SLC. The hospital doesnt have internet access so I have to wait till I get to my uncles house to get on line and then I have thre kids to compete with.
I appreciate the accept and the nice bonus you have added. Please know that I anm doing what I can to work on your problem. But without decent access it is difficult to say the least. The biggest problem is my uncle only has dialup (Yuck!) downloading trhe pictures takes forever. Ill try and find an internet cafe today to download the pics with.
What does the future look like for your father?
The major hold-up that I have is that I cannot see what tells the system how full-up the water is. Could this be sensed through the "Load Sense" return from the motor?
I will rebuild the unit today using a new "Flood Switch" which is definitely faulty and a new 4uF cap (+5% -5%) which tests much better than the old unit.
Hang in there - I have also "had it" with dial up --- when I travel (often) I use a dedicated doover which plugs into the USB port and has it's own phone number. It is on a network which is an upgrade of CDMA and is much faster than my landline (512 down - 64 up).
I have checked every single item in the beast and found yet another problem. There was a toy counter, exactly the right size to jam in the "non-return valve" between the drain pump and the outlet.
Count is therefore three faults 1. Blocked outlet drain 2. low value "Load Sense" 4uF Capacitor 3. faulty "Flood Switch" which did not turn the inlet valve off.
Beast now working - has been through 3 times - empty, with cleaning fluid and with a normal load.
There is now no panic at all on getting this going again. Follow up when you are back home is good enough.
I would appreciate advice, in due course, as to how this thing knows that it is full of water and if you can get something of an instruction manual or even a parts list with diagram. I am used to working with power tools and often (most often) that is all you get. Exceptions are the Senco Air-Free brad nail gun where I have a 30 minute DVD on operation, adjustment and repair and a Milwaukee DVD on operating principles of rotary impact power tools in drill, hammer and drill & hammer mode.
What is news on your father?
Back home now with a nice head cold courtisy of the Utah snow. But Im doing ok.
Dad is getting along pretty good all considering. He was opening his eyes and could recognise me and my sisters by name when I left. The brain doc says that is remarkable in his case. Gonna be a long road back to independant living though. Doc says minimum 1 year maybe more. But signs are good.
I was looking over the schematic before I left SLC and it appears to me that the flood switches are also the level switches. The top one in particular. It opens when the level gets up to it and trips the circuitry on the main control board that starts the wash cycle. The other flood control switch is normally open and when it trips it engages the pump motor by bypassing the high voltage neutral loop through the control boards circuitry, thus keeping the unit from flooding. Of course the toy in the plumbing doesnt help matters a bit. The restriction of the check ball would tend to leave water in the unit and then the next cycle has the excess water remaining which can cause the overfill condition. If the flood switch did not engage then the unit floods all over the floor.
The 4mf cap near the wash pump motor is most likely a booster for the motor. It provides a kick in the pants to get the motor spinning. Once the motor is spinning it has enough power to keep going. But it cant start without the extra boost from the cap. Well it might be able to but it would be slow to start.
I hope this explains things for you. If not you just fire away with any other questions you have and Ill answer them. As for the parts list or other tech drawings Im sorry but I cant find anything like that. I checked three parts sites and none have the AU, NZ, or South Seas units listed.
LOL I guess that makes ya'all special.
Sounds a bit better than it could be with your father. Sorry about the cold - the CHANGE appears to be worse than the actual coldness, from what I see here. Canberra is 2000 ft above sea level and 20 inch per year rainfall --- so dry. We have a lot of people from here take off on Friday afternoon for the ski fields and come back on Sunday night. The people who stay in commercial hotel type lodges fare worse than those who rent a lodge as a group for the weekend. Basically, the hotel people tend to overheat the public rooms and bedrooms so that guests can strip off wet clothing and still be comfortable. Most people in the group lodges change and put wet clothing into the "drying rooms" = large rooms where the heater blows in first and then moist warm air spreads through the lodge, generally just by convection over a 4 or 5 storeyed building.
Re the dishwasher, the flood switches appear to be just that as they are activated by a bit of white polystyrene foam that lifts off the bottom external plate of the machine. There are signs on this plate of corrosion (it's galvanised, not stainless) and marks where a bit of grease has spun off the motor cooling fan. This bottom plate is not made to be inundated every wash AND there is no way of removing the water on, say, the rinse cycle, to allow the wash cycle to start. Additionally, the polystyrene pad has no protection where it impacts the lever to operate the two micro-switches. I think that the flood switch is a "measure of last resort". The upper one was working (hence I could get [F1] and an audible alarm but the lower switch [NO] position stayed open and the [NC] went open. Alarms on, motor running, hot valve on, drain pump on (but ineffective - 12 mm counter).
Just thinking --- a flood switch that is not made to be a long term unit (low MTWF) and a filter that allows a 12 mm disk through --- must be the bain of all techs --- the bean counters!
Sorry for the bad pun!
You might have more luck if you look for a 230/240 volt unit from Europe. The flood switch bracket, the cap, the motor, the main control box and the RFI unit are all "Made in Italy" (spelled in English). There is no mention of F&P on any internals. As I mentioned before, a Simpson dishwasher we had 30 years ago was actually a Bosch design out of Germany.
As the unit is working now as well as on Day 1, push this to the back burner rather than spend every spare hour hunting.
Ok Brian. Back burner it is. For at least a couple days. I have another project question for someone. He has a old magnito tester that there is no documentation for and Im working up a schematic of the unit and hopefully an instruction manual for oit also. Gonna be a tough nut to crack this one. But I do love a good challenge. Especially when they work out right.
You wouldnt happen to know anything about vintage magnito type distributor testing machines would you?
Here is a pic of the unit
You are looking at a peak voltage at close to zero current?
Major problems are in the area of an old paper capacitor that has leaked towards zero!
The cap should be 1uF at 1000V or there abouts.
Problems in a maggy are there, an open circuit coil or bad points. Only other possible cause is a low output magnets and that is a low probability since the early 1970's.
Do you have, or have access to? an ESR (Electrical Series Resistance) meter?
Time here 2045 ADST (GMT +1100) --- I can get back to you about 0700 ADST.
I test maggys by spinning them and looking at the spark. Testing a maggy tester ??
What is the input? Is there a meter as a display? Does it use a neon as the output indicator?
Can you send me the original info? Translate the folleowin
oops dunno what happened there
I test maggys by spinning them and looking at the spark. Testing a maggy tester ??
What is the input? Is there a meter as a display? Does it use a neon as the output indicator?
Can you send me the original info? Translate the following
Lots of trouble, can you read what I have sent you??
Off to bed now
No sorry Brian I am not allowed to translate these type of things. Against the TOS to communicate off site with customers.
This isnt my tester it is a JA customers that came here asking about it. I just thought that you might have seen something like it.
I know I have seen some darn strange contraptions in my days. This is mellow compaired to some. You should see the inventions we came up with when I was working as a Carney Ride Jock for a year. You would be suprised how much ride steel you can move with a couple pry bars and a few bottle jacks. Took us all night to do it but we moved the Super Himalaja ride 30' to satisfy an inspector that said we were too close to a light pole. Didnt do the parks grass a bit of good but we moved her. All 56 tons of her. All without bending one bar of the spider sweeps! I think I have a pic of her somewhere. If I find it Ill post it.
As the dishwasher is now going, it is time to close this
Thanks your help.