My Kenmore Elite Refrigerator model 106.56703500 ice dispensing motor stopped working, though the ice maker and ice dispenser door and all other functions work fine. Ran through the 0 thru 20 diagnosis menu with everything checking out ok. Pulled the cover panel and all looks ok. Also checked the continuity on the sealed dispensing motor coil, and there was continuity. There is a ptc (thermal coupling - aka fuse?) inside the motor housing per the circuit diagram - but have not checked that yet. Am I missing a test? Is the motor simply bad?
Hello you are talking about the auger motor correct? You also have a volt meter right?
If the auger motor is the motor that drives the ice bucket components that both dispense and chop the ice, then yes. Yes, I Do have a volt meter.
Ok you need to test for 110v to the auger motor if you have 110v then the motor is bad. If you dont have power you need to check the control and switches on the front!
There are 4 wires in the harness going to the auger motor. There is, in fact, 110 v accross two of the contacts when the ice delivery pad is pressed - nothing accross the other two contacts. After reassembling everything it occurred to me that the other two contacts are probably a reverse mode to engage the chopping mechanism. Is this correct? Since the auger motor does not run to deliver either cubed or chopped ice, am I safe in assuming that power accross two leads indicates the motor is totally bad, and 110v will be at the other two leads when the cube / crushed button is pressed?If the answer to both is yes, then I think we got it and I can "Accept" the answer.Thank you.
There should only be two wires that hook directly to the auger motor you should have 110v it sounds like you do. The motor does not change direction when you press cubed it sends the ice down when you press crushed it lifts the solinoid up and the plastic piece in the bucket comes up and forces the ice through the fingers.
Hmmm. Sorry for one more round, but something doesn't make sense and I'd like to place a parts order tonight if possible.There are, in fact, 4 wires in the harnes, and I don't see any selonoid or levers in or going to the ice bucket. There is a path for cubes to fall if they are swept by the flat side of the rotating blades down the shute. The cubes will be crushed between opposing blades if the rotation is reversed. I pulled the cover and re-did the voltage test by unplugging the harnes from the motor. Don't know what I did differently the first time, but the results came out different this time - and I re-ran it multiple times to make sure. The wires grey #1, blue #2, red/white stripe #3, and brown/white stripe # XXXXX test as follows: 110 v accross #2 and #3 wires all the time; and 110v accross #2 and #4 wires all the time. Pressing the ice pad makes a click, but otherwise did not cut off or start the voltage. The #1 wire had no reading = o.I suspect just buying the motor will solve the problem. However, does the above suggest anything different to you?
Thats ok i dont have a schematic so i can not tell you for sure what wires should have power. If you think the motor reverses then test for power at the other two wires if power is present the motor is bad. I would say you are correct by replacing the motor it will fix your issue.
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