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Please check a couple of items -
1. Is the compressor running (the melon shaped motor behind the refrigeratorr)?
2. Is the fan next to the compressor running?
3. Is that clicking sound coming from the compressor?
4. If you go into the freezer section and examine the back wall, do you see any frost?
5. While in the freezer and pushing in the light button for the door, do you hear the evaporator motor fan at the back?
I will have to check when I get home from work.
1. Is the compressor running (the melon shaped motor behind the refrigerator)? Is there more than one compressor? If not then I would assume so as the freezer is working.
2. Is the fan next to the compressor running? Will check tonight.
3. Is that clicking sound coming from the compressor? Not sure, will check tonight.
4. If you go into the freezer section and examine the back wall, do you see any frost? No.
5. While in the freezer and pushing in the light button for the door, do you hear the evaporator motor fan at the back? I haven't tried this. I will try tonight.
There is only one compressor. That clicking sound is most often the relay trying to start the compressor. If the compressor was running, there's no frost on the inside of the back wall of the freezer, and the evaporator fan runs (after you trick it into thinking the door is closed), ..... then you would look at the vents from the freezer to the refrigerator to be either restricted or defective. So, you can check in the fresh food compartment to see if you can feel cold air flowing from freezer (usualy on top and back walls).
I'll check back with you tonight.
We would remove the back wall of the freezer to examine the evaporator coils. Part 4 below shows the back wall to be removed. The evaporator coils are shown as part 12 in the picture below the main picture.
Heavy thick frost on the coils indicates a problem with the defrost system. This can freeze up the dampers that control cold air to the fresh food compartment.
Light even frost on coils is good and what it should be.
A small area with heavy frost/ice shows a problem with the compressor and then maybe we check the relay on the compressor. Is that your clicking?
The loud clicking.... you haven't stated it's from behind the freezer by the compressor...
So, if it's inside the refrigerator it may be the damper trying to open and let cold air into the fresh food compartment.
The fresh food compartment is generally where you first notice a problem. However, sometimes it just a matter of time until the freezer also does not have the correct temperature.
Let me know what you find and we can tell you the next step.
the coils in the freezer back wall were heavily frosted. the clicking noise was louder with the door open. i have unplugged the frig and have the doors and the freezer drawer open. do i just need to let it completely thaw out for a couple of days?
Yes, you have a defrost problem.
The litmus test for this is to completely thaw out the refrigerator to room temperature. You can open the doors and have a fan blow into it to speed it up. You can also use a hair dryer. However, you need to be real careful not to melt all that plastic inside.
After the refrigerator is completely thawed you would plug it back in. If the refrigerator works correctly for the first 24-48 hours then the refrigerator has a defrost problem. This will likely come back in anywhere from a few days to a month or two!
The components that can cause this are the evaporator fan, the board that controls defrosting, a themostat located by the evaporator coils (if it's bulging it's bad) or the defrost heater itself.
Please let me know if you would like more information and/or clarification.
I don't know your area of the country. You can certainly call Maytag at their factory service line. However, they get $120.00 just for the service call in my area.
Maytag is less restictive since they were bought out by Whirlpool. So, now you may find a local repair guy who is Maytag authorized. Personally, I would go that way if you can have a friend recommend one. Be sure he's Maytag authorized because it will save time and money for you in the long run.
This repair could run anywhere from $150.00 (themostat - if he has it on the truck when he comes) to $450.00 (pretty much replacing everything).